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Old 01-11-2010, 11:31 AM   #1
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Drilled well / undeveloped land.


Hi, I know there has been some discussion to this but can someone point out the basics to me of what needs to be done to connect a drilled well to a home. I have the drilled well - 6" diameter and capped - that's it. What all needs to be done in order to make this well operational and attached to a house. I am completely new to this.

Thanks
Owen

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Old 01-11-2010, 12:50 PM   #2
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Drilled well / undeveloped land.


Ayuh,.... Basically,... Dig the trench for the line, below frostline,...
Punch a hole in the well casing, below frostline,+ install a pithles adapter,...
Drop a pump down the well,+ attach it to the pithles,...
Lay the piping to the house,+ add the controls, wiring,+ pressue tank...

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Old 01-11-2010, 01:38 PM   #3
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Drilled well / undeveloped land.


make sure that the pump you pick is adequate for the depth of your well.the deeper the well,the more impeller stages.make sure the pump electrical wires are large enough.the farther apart the well is from the pressure switch,the larger the wire.the more water demand you need,the larger the pressure tank.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:19 PM   #4
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if the well driller sells pumps ask him. IF he suggests 1/3 or 1/2 hp pump,,,do yourself a favor and upgrade to a 3/4. they are sorta like pickups and heavier is better, less problems. But like said, depth and volumes needed, dictate size and type.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:39 PM   #5
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See if this helps http://www.barottdrilling.com/watersystem.html The drawing shows the basic components.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:45 PM   #6
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Buy a constant pressure pump set up. Franklin makes the SubDrive family of controls.

And don't forget to shock the well. And last but not least, test your water. If you do it wrong, you can end up with a bacteria problem. Or worse yet, you could have an already-contaminated well (nitrates, coliform, arsenic, etc). Some of the most pristine parts of the country have pretty alarming levels of naturally occuring arsenic and radionucliatides in the water. And if you have, or had, or are planning a septic system, or there was a farm near the land, you could end up with a serious problem if you do it wrong or don't test.

I've got a client right now with that problem. Actually 52 clients, all in the same development. Really poor job of planning the development and maintaining the septic system that serves it. Now they're on bottled water and facing a consent order from the state.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:48 PM   #7
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3/4 HP pumps are the smallest we put in now. With today's water needs the smaller pump just won't be satisfactory.

For larger homes we use the SQE computerised systems. They are amazing. This is the pressure tank and computer.

Drilled well / undeveloped land.-pict0062.jpg

Last edited by user69544; 01-11-2010 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aggie67 View Post
Buy a constant pressure pump set up. Franklin makes the SubDrive family of controls.

And don't forget to shock the well. And last but not least, test your water. If you do it wrong, you can end up with a bacteria problem. Or worse yet, you could have an already-contaminated well (nitrates, coliform, arsenic, etc). Some of the most pristine parts of the country have pretty alarming levels of naturally occuring arsenic and radionucliatides in the water. And if you have, or had, or are planning a septic system, or there was a farm near the land, you could end up with a serious problem if you do it wrong or don't test.

I've got a client right now with that problem. Actually 52 clients, all in the same development. Really poor job of planning the development and maintaining the septic system that serves it. Now they're on bottled water and facing a consent order from the state.
Those are good systems. We just put one in a home we needed 50 GPM.

SEQ is a little cheaper and IMO a little more dependable.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:24 PM   #9
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These are links to both styles.

http://www.grundfos.com/web/HomeUs.n...ag/PAVA-526KFY


http://www.constantpressure.com/
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:16 PM   #10
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A better choice is a CSV
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23 years in water treatment and well pumps, 13 years on the 'net helping others to help themselves.

Last edited by beenthere; 01-12-2010 at 04:37 AM. Reason: Removed link
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
A better choice is a CSV
Can you guaranty 35 GPM??? Will it make any different if everything in the house is running? It will not with SQE.

We used to put in 5 or 6 cycledstop systems a year. We called them smart tanks. They are great for under mobiles. But, they are not anything like constant pressure.

Most drillers in Michigan have decided to stop selling cyclestop. We are hearing things about the company not being around to handle the warranty replacements. Not sure how much of that is true, I for one will not take the chance.

Last edited by beenthere; 01-12-2010 at 04:38 AM. Reason: Removed link from quote
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen B View Post
Hi, I know there has been some discussion to this but can someone point out the basics to me of what needs to be done to connect a drilled well to a home. I have the drilled well - 6" diameter and capped - that's it. What all needs to be done in order to make this well operational and attached to a house. I am completely new to this.

Thanks
Owen
You also need to know how much water the well produces. It will make a difference. Is it screened or bedrock?? What is the static water level? All this makes a difference on the pumping system.
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Old 01-12-2010, 04:39 AM   #13
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Drilled well / undeveloped land.


Gary.
Are you an owner, or partner, or in anyway affiliated with Cyclestop.

If so. Please don't self promote, its against site rules.
You can however buy advertising on the site though.

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