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Old 10-11-2009, 02:16 PM   #16
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thanks to all for the information. it seems that i did all of this for nothing. even with the cold water shut off, i still had water coming into the tank. i had a faucet upstairs running on the hot side and a hose draining the tank for over 2 hours and all i got out of the drain hose was clear water. the tank is currently heating up....

this is an electric heater and i did find a self cleaning sticker on the side towards the back...


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Old 10-11-2009, 05:59 PM   #17
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>>> the tank is currently heating up.

For those who just joined us, be sure to turn off the power or gas before starting or trying to drain the tank. Make sure the tank is full again, as evidenced by water flowing from a hot faucet, before turning the power or gas back on.

A self cleaning tank has the cold water inlet tube (dip tube) shaped so there is more turbulence down at the bottom of the tank when hot water is being used. Some sediment will be suspended long enough to go out the outlet pipe. This is not perfect; larger granules will remain near the bottom.

If much sediment is left to accumulate at the bottom of a gas or oil heated tank, the bottom can overheat and the glass or ceramic lining become damaged. This shortens the life of the tank. With a clean tank, the burner won't heat the tank bottom much over 212 degrees F when water is contacting the surface inside.
The good conscientious technician or serviceperson will carry extra oils and lubricants in case the new pump did not come with oil or the oil was accidentally spilled, so the service call can be completed without an extra visit.

Last edited by AllanJ; 10-11-2009 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 10-12-2009, 01:14 PM   #18
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thanks again to everybody for all of the information
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:29 PM   #19
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My 2 cents. I shut off the gas (or electric). Shut off the water feeding the tank. Open the drain on the tank and an upstairs faucet. Once the tank has drained down, completely remove the plastic junky drain valve. Now you can run a coat hanger wire or something in there to break up the sediment if needed. Many times this is necessary. After you get out as much junk as you can, replace the plastic drain valve with a 3/4 X 1 1/2 stainless steel nipple and a good quality ball valve. Install an MIP to garden hose adapter in the ball valve. Close the valve and refill the tank. Now with the water pressure on and a garden hose connected to the ball valve, you can open the ball valve and REALLY flush the tank with some serious water flow. After flushing, close the valve, remove the hose and cap the adapter with a garden hose cap and garden hose washer. If you don't change out that plastic valve that comes in the tank, chances are you will never flush any sediment through that tiny little valve. Those valves just don't have a big enough opening to pass any sediment, especially if your tank is so loaded up it is popping.


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