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Old 12-28-2012, 10:52 PM   #16
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Drain stack configuration


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Originally Posted by Javiles View Post
C on top B center A at the bottom as per your drawing.

This is what the code wants a mechanical discharge at the bottom of a gravity drain. and then it would be lavatory sink above a line discharging solids which would be your disposal. plumbing systems are designed to self cleaning, you always want clean water up stream of a solids discharge. also like others have mentioned length of those waste arms are important. if your in the south east your probably under the IPC thats the one we are under but we also have the south Florida plumbing code which covers areas not addressed under the IPC. should check with your local building official. hope this helps.
Thank you, everyone that have taken time to respond to my post since the start.

I have revalidated and reviewed the 3-pipe stack configuration approach and have decided to go with a 2-pipe stack configuration. It only appears to be more feasible from the stand-point of how the pipe would fit both through the studs and at the drain stub-out - two 2" pipes would be best while staying in the proper drain heights (i.e. 14" for kitchen sink with disposal, Lav/Vanity at 18", etc.). These three fixtures will be on the same wall from left to right toward the 3" drain pipe with an air vent as drawn in the sketch.

Please take a look at the drawing that I have put together, and check my knowledge. I am open for constructive criticisms and suggestions, as some of you truly have been great and thorough in helping me.

Thank you again in advance.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:59 AM   #17
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Drain stack configuration


over Kill on the venting, double trapping, exceeded lengths on waste arm. what you have is not to code and will cause multiple problems. i will draw you a couple ways that may work for you. unfortunately you can not pipe around your framing, you have to frame around your piping. if you can post a drawing of the floor plan showing distance from the stack to fixtures and in between each other.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:04 AM   #18
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Drain stack configuration


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Originally Posted by Javiles View Post
over Kill on the venting, double trapping, exceeded lengths on waste arm. what you have is not to code and will cause multiple problems. i will draw you a couple ways that may work for you. unfortunately you can not pipe around your framing, you have to frame around your piping.
After you pointed that it's over vented, I do see that as well. Would an AAV be best in this case?

Would you mind, also, share your thought on "double trapping"?

Also, how do you figure that the waste arm length was exceeded?

I look forward to your drawing, Javiles.

Thank you again for your help on the matter.
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:09 AM   #19
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Drain stack configuration


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Would you mind, also, share your thought on "double trapping"?

Follow the flow of water from the kitchen sink. It has to go thru two traps.
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:24 AM   #20
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Drain stack configuration


also make sure the fitting circled in green are sanitary T's not Wyes with a combo
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:48 AM   #21
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Drain stack configuration


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Follow the flow of water from the kitchen sink. It has to go thru two traps.
Hammerlane,

I am confused. I thought at the kitchen sink a trap is needed, like at the vanity. Please elaborate for me whether "double trapping" is good or bad.

Secondly, I will use san-tees in the locations per the sketch.

Again, please explain.

Thank you.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:16 AM   #22
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Drain stack configuration


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Originally Posted by oodssoo View Post
Hammerlane,

I am confused. I thought at the kitchen sink a trap is needed, like at the vanity. Please elaborate for me whether "double trapping" is good or bad.

Secondly, I will use san-tees in the locations per the sketch.

Again, please explain.

Thank you.
Every fixture needs a trap- but you cannot drain one trap into another trap such as your kit sink into laundry

Javiles asked for a floor plan. Can you provide it?
What you have drawn has several issues- rather then address them one by one- let a plumber here draw it for you. Sketch please
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:41 PM   #23
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Drain stack configuration


Okay, I have tweaked the sketch some more. I noticed that the washer drain and vent should have been separate.

Secondly, I've added on the bottom the distance figures per Javiles's earlier request. All of the fixtures will be on the same wall.

Thirdly, I really think AAV would be the best way to go, but I still haven't gotten any response from anyone on this route. I am especially intrigued to find out whether you think (1, 2, or 3) AAVs are even feasible for washer drain vent.

Lastly, if you do see "problems" or something you don't quite understand about my sketch, please point those out to me. I would like to clarify them for you, in order for you to help me.

Look forward to seeing more responses. You guys have been great so far!

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Old 12-29-2012, 04:25 PM   #24
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Drain stack configuration


Your sketch shows y/combos where the sink and lav are connected to the drain . These fittings need to be sanitary tees[ san tees] Your laundry washer box discharge figure is not clear where the floor is but the washer standpipe i.e drainage length shouls be 18 to 30 inches max because a longer length will tend to siphon the grey water out of the trap from the water force velocity. The trap is not to be under the floor. One way to configure this drain is to put the bottom og the trap at 6 inches above the floor then work upwards to 30 inches for the bottom of the washer box. The venting should slope upwards 1/4 inch per foot or more and you can if tou want replace the drain combos with san tees or 90's You do Not have to use vent 90's as they are about 3 times the price of drainage 90's and will pass code just fine. AAV's are not allowed in some areas but work fine and generally not used as a normal practice but used to vent certain instances wher normal venting would create issues. AAv. need to be accessible , located a minimum of 4 inches above the drain and if in the attic, 6 inch above the insulation. If you get as far as the attic probably best to go ahead and go thru the roof unless it is tile or other issues. Hope this helps Mr Leak
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:26 PM   #25
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Drain stack configuration


OK- heres my list of issues:
1 You don't need a vent off the stack- I assume thats a waste stack only
2 You don't say the waste pipe sizes- lav=1.5", clothe washer = 2"(some codes want 3") kit. sink=2"
3 washer sant at vent connection is backwards
4 you still have the kit sink draining into the washer trap via the standpipe- big no no
5 Kitchen sink trap to high- you'll never make a connection to the sink at 24"
My opinion on AAV's is if you can vent it with pipe- do so.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:47 PM   #26
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Drain stack configuration


Eplumber: "My opinion on AAV's is if you can vent it with pipe- do so." Some folks here use them to avoid heat loss. Is there any reason to not have a vent or two via pipe if AAV's are used for most venting in a one-story house? I just can't gravitate to using AAV's exclusively; just a gut thing. A Studor Maxi-Vent and PAPA will be installed near the beginning of the drain system.

"washer san t at vent connection is backwards" What is the reasoning there? It would seem to enhance air flow if the san t curves toward the "up and out". thanks.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:57 PM   #27
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Quote and responding to Mr. Leak...

1). Your sketch shows y/combos where the sink and lav are connected to the drain.
In case it's not visible enough, I've added a third disclaimer stating that my drawing is not to scale. Also, I've added "S/Tee" next to the tees.
These fittings need to be sanitary tees[ san tees]

2). Your laundry washer box discharge figure is not clear where the floor is but the washer standpipe i.e drainage length shouls be 18 to 30 inches max because a longer length will tend to siphon the grey water out of the trap from the water force velocity.The top of my washer box is sitting about 36" off of the floor. So this problem will be nonissue.

3). The trap is not to be under the floor. Again the drawing is not to scale, but I have tweaked that on the sketch for everyone's viewing pleasure.

4). One way to configure this drain is to put the bottom og the trap at 6 inches above the floor then work upwards to 30 inches for the bottom of the washer box. I plan to install the standpipe based on your suggestion. Thank you.

5). The venting should slope upwards 1/4 inch per foot or more and you can if tou want replace the drain combos with san tees or 90's You do Not have to use vent 90's as they are about 3 times the price of drainage 90's and will pass code just fine. A 1.5" vent pipe (I can verify this upon start of work) runs across the ceiling and over all three fixtures. So, my plan is to vent into this pipe. As I have in the sketch, I will use SanTees here as well in the direction as in the sketch also.


6). AAVs are not allowed in some areas but work fine and generally not used as a normal practice but used to vent certain instances wher normal venting would create issues. AAv. need to be accessible , located a minimum of 4 inches above the drain and if in the attic, 6 inch above the insulation. If you get as far as the attic probably best to go ahead and go thru the roof unless it is tile or other issues. AAVs will be my backup plan should the regular pipe vent method becomes too problematic.

7). Hope this helps Mr Leak Very well did! Thank you![/quote]
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:03 PM   #28
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Drain stack configuration


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Originally Posted by jklingel View Post
Eplumber: "My opinion on AAV's is if you can vent it with pipe- do so." Some folks here use them to avoid heat loss. Is there any reason to not have a vent or two via pipe if AAV's are used for most venting in a one-story house? I just can't gravitate to using AAV's exclusively; just a gut thing. A Studor Maxi-Vent and PAPA will be installed near the beginning of the drain system.

"washer san t at vent connection is backwards" What is the reasoning there? It would seem to enhance air flow if the san t curves toward the "up and out". thanks.
Thank you jklingel. I wondered about the direction of the S/Tee also. I mean, the way I have in the sketch (I thought) would "enhance" the air flow, right?

Since you chimmed in, jklingel, what's your opinion about the "double trap" discussion. Mind you, they are about 7 to 8 feet apart... Please let me know.

As for the topic on using the AAV, I haven't made up my mind yet on what I would end up doing. Since either way really don't have any negatives (from I have been reading), I guess AAV would be easier to install than the regular pipe vent method.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:05 PM   #29
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Drain stack configuration


Quote:
Originally Posted by jklingel View Post
Eplumber: "My opinion on AAV's is if you can vent it with pipe- do so." Some folks here use them to avoid heat loss. Is there any reason to not have a vent or two via pipe if AAV's are used for most venting in a one-story house? I just can't gravitate to using AAV's exclusively; just a gut thing. A Studor Maxi-Vent and PAPA will be installed near the beginning of the drain system.

"washer san t at vent connection is backwards" What is the reasoning there? It would seem to enhance air flow if the san t curves toward the "up and out". thanks.
I base my opinion on many years of having to vent through the roof. Only since last year has my local code allowed AAV's and then, only under certain conditions such as island sinks, some remodel conditions and only in residential work.
UPC also says that the combined cross sectional are of the vents through the roof shall be equal to or greater then the building drain. So 4" drain= minimum 4" combined vents through the roof. I've never been given a "official" reason for the 4" venting rule except that it equalizes pressure.
Drainage fittings are designed with sewage flow in mind not air flow. A sant is meant to flow from top-down or from the branch-down.
Hpoe that helps
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:27 PM   #30
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Did a quick fix for you. This is just one way to do it and it may not be totally code correct for your area.
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