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Old 04-03-2008, 02:02 PM   #1
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


We are going to demo the kitchen, then demo the existing linoleum floors and put new raw wood floors down before we put in the cabinets, then finish the floor when the rest of the kitchen is done.

What is the best way to go about hot/cold water coming through the floor?

Should I cut those lines below the floor, or should we floor around them, or drill holes in the wood that goes down and put it right down on top of them? They have shut off valves inside the base cabinet, but I'm sure we can figure out how to shut them off up stream (not that the ones under the sink turn anyway ha!!!)

Just trying to figure out what is the best or accepted way to do this. Thanks.

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Old 04-03-2008, 03:33 PM   #2
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


If it's not on an outside wall I'd cut them off and put them in the wall.
If you don't want to do that or can't do that then it's essentially whatever is easier for you. You can cut holes in the wood like you said or cut them below the floor and re-pipe later. In any case now is a good time to change the angle valves.


What kind of pipe do you have? If it's galvanized get it out of there.

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Old 09-22-2011, 03:32 PM   #3
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


I have a similar situation and I'm looking for advice. I have just removed a sink and sink base cabinet and I'm renovating the whole kitchen in my 1965 house. Walls down, new walls up, drywall, paint, new tile/underlayment, cabinets, appliances, counter tops--EVERYTHING.

My sink supply lines (half inch copper) come up through the floor from an unfinished basement with easy access. The old cabinet had just a pair of half inch holes drilled through its floor for the pipes to come in so I'm assuming that the cabinets were installed before the plumbing was finished. From those lines, there is a shutoff valve on the hot side for the dishwasher and a T off the cold side that goes straight out the exterior wall (with shutoff) behind the sink to an exterior hose bib. The waste pipe is in the exterior wall.

I cut up the floor of the old cabinet to get it out but obviously don't want to do the same to a new cabinet. What's the best way to plumb new lines. Should I put shutoff valves below the floor and use flex lines? Put the same plumbing back in that was there before? I have a pic that I can upload later today.

Thanks!
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Old 09-22-2011, 03:38 PM   #4
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


Cut the lines below the floor. You will then drill a hole in the back of the cab for the drain. After everything is installed, drill the holes through the floor of the cab for the supplies. Shutoffs generally go under the sink. If you have good access, you can probably put them in the basement. I am sure one of our plumbers will set me straight if there is a code issue here.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:56 PM   #5
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


Sounds like a good plan. Thanks.
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:01 PM   #6
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


BTW-Sorry about the hijack. Here's the pic.

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Old 09-22-2011, 11:34 PM   #7
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


Quote:
I am sure one of our plumbers will set me straight if there is a code issue here.
Nope, no code issues here.
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:47 PM   #8
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


It was mentioned to put the shut off valves in the basement- not a good idea. Keep them in the cabinet if possible. You want them close to the fixture.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:17 AM   #9
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


Roger that. So, temporarily cap the lines below the floor during the floor/tile installation. Then put the new shut offs inside the sink base after the cabinets are in.

thanks!
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:16 AM   #10
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


Another question...when I get ready to put these pipes back together, I'm replacing the valves with new stuff. The one on the left is hot and feeds the sink and dishwasher. The one on the right is for the sink and the outside water spigot.

I plan to replace the outside spigot with the freeze proof type. I think I can get away with just one valve per side. I like the quarter turn valves. Is there one that I can use here instead of the two types that are pictured? I can solder the new ones on as I have the materials (everything but the valves themselves. I did not see what I thought I needed on the shelf at home depot. That being quarter turn valves with solder ends and dual output for the hot side. Do I need to go to a *real* plumbing supply store? We do have one nearby.

thanks!
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:30 AM   #11
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


Usually the local plumbing supply house is your best bet. I'm a big fan of the 1/4 turn valves as well.
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Old 09-28-2011, 04:46 AM   #12
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Usually the local plumbing supply house is your best bet. I'm a big fan of the 1/4 turn valves as well.
I second that---the supply house will have parts in the future if you ever need to rebuild the valve.
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:25 AM   #13
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Doing demo - plumbing coming through floor


Sound like your comfortable soldering cooper.
If thats the case I would install a copper tee on both the hot and cold water lines.

On the top of the tee install your 1/4 stop for the faucet .
On the horizontal side of the tee install your stop for the d/w and connection for your frost free hose bib.
You'll thank me later for having stops for all your connection.
When the d/w gets a leak you can shut it down and still use the faucet.
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