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Old 02-18-2010, 05:14 PM   #1
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Does this need hubs or couplings or not?


I am putting together this item which uses the thinner styrene pvc fittings to reduce weight and expense. It will screw in to my 55 gallon rain barrel at the bottom and my downspout will go into it at the top. The downspout adapter fitting on the side is for overflow. Anywat, my questions are (a) is there any way to get around having to use the three hubs and (b) do I need a fourth one between the 2" threaded male adpater and the reducing collar?

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Old 02-19-2010, 09:04 AM   #2
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Does this need hubs or couplings or not?


If your concern is the overall height of the assembly, then you could use a reducer bushing on the bottom instead of a reducer coupling. The would eliminate the lower "hub" too. What you are calling hubs are just short sections of pipe. Cut those pipe stubs to the right length and the downspout adapters should almost touch the faces of the "T".
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:44 AM   #3
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Does this need hubs or couplings or not?


Thanks very much for your reply. I should have called them couplings instead of hubs; the parts catalog calls them couplings.

I am using Styrene which is 1/8th inch thick, not the thicker PVC.

The Downspout Adapters and the three stubs of the Bull Nose Tee have the same interior dimension of 4-1/4" and outer dimension of 4-1/2" which is unfortunate because otherwise the downspout adapters could simply slide into the Bull Nose Tee. To mate them up, I need to add a coupling, right? I can't see any other way of doing this unless someone makes a narrower styrene downspout adapter.

As to using a reducer bushing on the bottom instead of a reducer coupling, does "bushing" basically mean that it slides into the Bull Nose Tee at the bottom?
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Old 02-19-2010, 03:47 PM   #4
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Does this need hubs or couplings or not?


I'm not sure that they are really styrene. I'd guess that they are schedule 20 PVC. The hubs as you called them are not really couplings either. They are just short pieces of pipe. A coupling would be the same diameter as your "T". If you can, find a bushing to slip into the "T" that has a 2" female pipe thread. Then use a 2" close threaded nipple to go from the bushing to the bung. That would be the most compact assembly I can think of.
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