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Old 12-08-2009, 09:18 PM   #1
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does a 6" I.D. Pvc fitting exist?


I have run into an insteresting situation on our rural home. We have a lift station that pumps out a septic tank into a large main line as needed. the septic tank is a very large concrete unit. the pipe coming through the wall of the tank is a 6 inch pvc, light green in color. There is a 4 inch pvc pipe that was placed inside this larger pipe with some type of filler years ago. there is no stub of 6" pvc sticking out of the wall, it is flush at the wall. So, I'm wondering if there is a specialy fitting or some other idea for attaching the 4" pvc to the INSIDE of the 6" pvc? I know this is odd, and I have searched the old internet for some exotic fitting w/ no luck. Any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 12-08-2009, 09:32 PM   #2
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does a 6" I.D. Pvc fitting exist?


http://plumbing.gillroys.com/O-Rings...G-s424936.html

This type of O-Ring will seal the space between the outside of the 4" pipe and the inside of the 6" pipe. But to install it, you really have to be able to move the 4" pipe, which means cutting it outside the tank. Slide the 4" pipe out of the 6" sleeve about 6" or so, roll the o-ring onto the 4" until it's touching the rim of the 6", then push it all in so that the o-ring rolls in between the two pipes. Of course while you're doing this, you also have to couple the 4" back together outside the tank. You can do that with a 4" Fernco coupling, or a 4" PVC Repair coupling (aka - "slip coupling").

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Old 12-08-2009, 09:44 PM   #3
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does a 6" I.D. Pvc fitting exist?


Thanks for the great tip. The good news is I can get to the 4" pipe in question. The only other concern is this: Will such a fitting stand up to pressure? Our line unfortunately runs upward for some distance to the main line. Not steep, just upward grade, but still enough to put some pressure on any connection used. So basically, will one of these seals seal tightly enough to prevent backleakage? Could I improve the likelihood of a solid seal by using two or more of these??? Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:00 PM   #4
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does a 6" I.D. Pvc fitting exist?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bar None View Post
Thanks for the great tip. The good news is I can get to the 4" pipe in question. The only other concern is this: Will such a fitting stand up to pressure? Our line unfortunately runs upward for some distance to the main line. Not steep, just upward grade, but still enough to put some pressure on any connection used. So basically, will one of these seals seal tightly enough to prevent backleakage? Could I improve the likelihood of a solid seal by using two or more of these??? Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
You won't need more than one, they make a very tight seal. Using more than one might also make it harder to line up the 4" to couple it back together. There shouldn't be any real pressure in the line if the waste water is racing down to a tank that is more or less emptied every time the pump cycles on. But even if the pump fails, and you have a back up, that o-ring won't fail. I'd be more concerned with the 4" rubber Fernco coupling used to repair the 4" in that case. Extra stainless steel hose clamps (large) around the middle of the Fernco coupling wouldn't hurt.

Or better yet, instead of the 4" rubber fernco coupling, go with a 4" Clamp-All coupling: http://www.clampall.com/performance.htm

It's basically the same thing, but it has a stainless steel sleeve/"housing" that gives it much more rigidity.

Last edited by Ishmael; 12-08-2009 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:30 PM   #5
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does a 6" I.D. Pvc fitting exist?


Okay... What if I cannot pull the 4 inch out, but I can slide the rolling oring over the end of the exposed end of the 4 inch, then rolled it up to the 6 inch.. would I be able to force the oring in between the two if I lubed the area between the two pipes liberally??? I'm a bit concerned about what i may dislodge if I pull the 4 inch completely out of the 6 inch pipe. I can't tell exactly what remains as far as support or filling between the two up the line and I'm concerned if I put too much pressure on any of it, I could be tearing up things unintentionally.

I see Fernco has a flat style oring... would that one be more suitable for working up 2 feet of the exposed 4 inch until I reach the 6 inch, then driving the flat one in between the two with a rubber mallet and piece of hard wood to move it in past the opening of the 6 inch?

thanks again.
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:40 PM   #6
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does a 6" I.D. Pvc fitting exist?


That idea looks/sounds good in theory, but no. I actually tried that once...once. I'm guessing the space was filled with hydraulic cement or something like that, right? And aren't we just talking about a 6" sleeve that may be about 12" long max?
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:51 PM   #7
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does a 6" I.D. Pvc fitting exist?


You could be right... Need to investigate a bit more. Still sounds like definately the right part to do the job correctly. I have to just work out the details.. It's only 15 below here so.. digging into the frozen ground to access the outside of the 4" is probably not achievable at this time. Truthfully, I thought about filling the gap with gap filling foam expanding insulation and hoping for the best until spring... I'd much rather get it done right.
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:14 PM   #8
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does a 6" I.D. Pvc fitting exist?


Okay, Tried the oring, makes perfect sense that it would work. Here are some details of this effort.
1. I discovered that the 4" was light weight, and was only 2' in total length, ending in 4 inch coupler that 1/3 of the collar has been broken on the pump side. I was therefore able to put that length out, and install the oring as described.
2. when i engaged the pump, all went well until pressure built up on the opposite side of the oring, and started to blow the liquid back in to the vault. I'm thinking there may be a blockage in the line that travels out across a hay field to reach the main? good news, less running back inside the vault. Bad news still not solved.
Questions...

could such pressure be normal in a sewer drain line??? is should be free flowing shouldn't it? theres no supstantial uphill grade on the land heading toward the main line.. could be some grade in the way the pipe is buried.

If the pressure is not normal, and can be aleviated by rotorooting, than I believe the oring will work just fine. if it doesn't here are more questions

1. the pump pumps the sewage through what looks to be a 2.5" sched 40 pvc that converts to a four inch with a check valve, then heads to the out of the vault more or less.

2. is there any reason that the entire line within the vault area needs to be larger than the 2.5" diameter of the first section coming out of the pump? The liquid does not expand, so it seems that I should be able to use 2.5" all the way to the inside of the 4" attaching it with a 4 x 2.5 or so donut, just past the cracked hub/collar which sits just outside the vault...

I really thing the main culprit is a blockage result ing in pressure... Thanks for your thoughtful replies.

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