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Old 07-25-2008, 03:25 PM   #31
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


mstplumber,

Most have said it would not be that hard to break the concrete. How about I let you be the one who has finally pushed me into it? I will rent a tool or buy a sledge hammer and utilize the entire weekend to knock it open. Be it 4 or 30 hours!

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Old 07-25-2008, 03:53 PM   #32
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


Raised showers, toilets, etc also look cheesy no matter how much you try and decorate it. Their are exceptions but those are in large very expensive bathrooms.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:09 PM   #33
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


Last time I checked, renting a roto-hammer for a day is like 30 or 40 bucks. Really cheap.
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Old 07-26-2008, 05:29 AM   #34
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan View Post
Last time I checked, renting a roto-hammer for a day is like 30 or 40 bucks. Really cheap.
I bought mine used for about $80 off eBay with a pile of bits. It's copped a couple slabs by just drilling holes every couple inches then smashing it with a hammer. That's only when you need a perfect hold for one reason or another. Usually you just get a hole started with the chipping gun then smash the rest with a hammer. I rarely use the chopping bits. At work we use jackhammers which honestly aren't that much more effecting then the good old 15lb sledge hammer though it is less effort and more noisy/dusty.

Last edited by Marlin; 07-26-2008 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 07-27-2008, 07:32 PM   #35
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


This is what the Lowes rental guys said the "lightest" one for the job we need. $65. I could not lift it up but Dave finally got the job done, with all body parts still attached.

I would rather have a 34X48 base but have not been able to fine one. I am thinking a kerdi 32X60 kit, $400 is the lowest I know of. With the enclosure, faucet, tile and other parts, I am seeing a $2500 to $3000 shower with DIY. Not cheap.
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:34 AM   #36
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


Mechelle,

You should be able to get a Sterling 34 x 48 base for under $200. Go to any Ferguson's in the Atlanta area. They are a plumbing supply. The Sterling bases can be used with or without prefab wall sets. You can see an example of the base only here:

http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/onli...d_num=72121100

Here are some examples of complete showers with walls, the Accord is my favorite design:

http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/onli...es&colorIdx=-1

Using the wall sets saves time, and possibly money, compared to installing tile. If you plan to install the tile yourself it might cost a little more to go with the wall sets. If you do want to do the tile yourself here is a great resource to help you learn:

http://www.basicplumbingrepair.com/tile.html

One last thing. You should plan to install whichever shower base you pick in a mortar bed. Here's how.

First make sure when you move the pipe to where the drain will be that you have dug down to the original p-trap (if there is one) and cut it off at the horizontal pipe. Now measure where the drain opening in your shower will be and put a new p-trap under the new drain opening. Don't glue the vertical piece in the p-trap yet, just make sure it is dry fitted all the way into the fitting on the p-trap, with the vertical pipe from the trap stubbed up about 6" above the floor and capped. Make sure the horizontal pipe is sloped at least 1/4" per foot toward the existing drain pipe. Put something about 6" wide around the pipe (to allow room for the drain) and patch the floor back where you jackhammered.

Now install the drain on the shower base and measure how far below th floor you will need to cut the pipe so it will glue into the drain. Measure and mark the pipe, pull it out of the fitting (this is why you did not glue it yet), cut it and glue it into the p-trap.

Now get some sand mix (concrete mix with no gravel, sometimes called topping mix) and mix enough to fill the space under the shower base. Dump it out in the shower space and put a piece of plastic (a drop cloth works great) on top of the sand mix. This is in case you ever have to pull it back up. Now install the base, pressing it down into the sand mix and making sure the drain it glued completely onto the pipe. Make sure it is level and let the concrete dry for a day. This will help stabilize the shower base and prevent movement and noise.
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:17 PM   #37
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


This is the trap, deep into the weight bearing 2X6 plate. Should I cut at the far corner of the trap? The room between the pipe and the lower concrete layer is smaller than the close-up shot looks like. The second pic showed its odd position. Should I run a 90 elbow out and the P trap up? Could the new trap be higher than where it is now?
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:38 PM   #38
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


You are doing a great job so far!

2 suggestions:

Use a concrete chisel (as opposed to the wood chisel in the photo) and chip out a little more concrete at the p-trap. If you chip from the bottom up, and sort of try to break off the corner by putting the chisel about 1/2 way up the concrete (right under the re-bar), it will be surprisingly easy.

Use either a 45 or 90 (or a couple or each) as needed to get the pipe to where you need it. Just maintain a fairly uniform slope on the pipe, it's technically an "S trap" if you offset the pipe upward from where it is to the new trap. This can interfere with the vent for the trap.
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:26 PM   #39
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


Thanks mstplumber, I used the little wood chisel to chip away the dirt from the hard reached deep-corner, ant style. But I have to admit that I still need to own a concrete one.

Now I have a new problem. I bought a bagful of pipes, trap, elbows.... and figured out that they do not fit only when I tried to connect them together. They are different sizes. The main pipe (horizontal one) and the trap are 2" but the one that comes out of the floor (the perpendicular one) is 1 1/2 inches. The 2" trap adapts/changes to fit the 1.5 inch pipe. Why is it like that? Can I just buy all 2" pipes and trap to make a 2" drain. Or should I do the same thing with a 2" trap and adapts to 1.5 inch pipe for the drain opening? Am I explaining it clearly? I did not purposely underestimate diy plumbing but these little things have thrown me off quite a few times. Please help me out.
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:08 AM   #40
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


I might not described the situation. I bought 1.5 inches parts and found out that the main pipe is 2" and the one that necks its head out the concrete is 1.5 inches. My question is do I need to go all 2", a combo or does it matter? Clear as mud?
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Old 07-30-2008, 07:23 AM   #41
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?


Completely clear. You need to use all 2". The reason the old one was reduced to 1 1/2" is because it was roughed in for a tub, not a shower. The smallest pipe allowed by code under concrete is 2", but tubs have 1 1/2" drains, so the original plumber reduced the riser. Shower drains have 2" connections.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:59 AM   #42
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Do we have to break the concrete floor for a shower drain?




Now that is clear.

I am on my way to build out the tile, base........... I am getting some messages but sorry that I have not been able to chat because this site requires a 20 post eligibility. I am on my way there, too.

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