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99altrade 12-21-2010 09:21 AM

Demo'd Half-Bath, Pics Attached, Any Plumbing?
 
6 Attachment(s)
This is one of my first real "DIY" projects (go figure), though plan to do this on my own (with extra hands / pro as and if needed). I've never done any serious plumbing work, but have friends who have who can lend a hand, or hire if necessary, but not preferable.

I am posting relevant photos and questions to appropriate threads (I will post pics specifically of the wiring to the electrical thread), and so here I am asking most specifically about plumbing issues.

The bathroom had no plumbing issues prior to demolition. We just wanted a new bathroom here, and wanted to start from the guts (I found newspaper in the wall beneath 3 accumulated layers of drywall/plaster, from 1970, and 1981.

While not pretty I am certain, and perhaps not how things might be done now, does any of this plumbing, from what you can see in the pics, need to be changed out, adjusted, etc. in any way, or does it seem ok to go ahead and with framing repair, drywalling, and on...? If relevant, there are valves to shut the sink water, behind that wall in the garage, which I have shut off, however I can't find a separate valve for the toilet and so will work with the main off when working on toilet - Sloan is just screwed closed now.

Also, I plan to switch from the commercial style Sloan toilet valve to tank toilet (is that a good idea? more energy-efficient?). How can I make this change? Any other suggestions before I re-insulate, frame, and close up walls?

Bathroom is about 5.5x5.5' x 7-8 foot height (ductwork).

Thanks much!

99altrade 12-21-2010 05:53 PM

Bump, thanks in advance for any help!

broox 12-21-2010 05:59 PM

The one thing that jumps out at me is the "rough in" for the toilet. Most tank type toilets are 12 inches from the finished wall to center of commode flange, most commercial flush-valve commodes are 10 inches. If you are gonna change it, make sure you have room after drywall, tile, etc.

Plumber26 12-21-2010 08:00 PM

Good call Broox,
I'll only add that it maybe a good idea while the wall is open to replace the galvanized drain for the lavatory. You can re attach to the existing vent but galvanized drains tend to rust on the inside making them drain slower and clogg up more frequently. Make sure when you replace the tee fitting that you use a sanitary tee (not a combo). To me it looks like they used a straight tee fitting (like you'd use on a water line).

Ltnicks 12-22-2010 10:57 AM

agree with both replies.

as said with the w.c. measure from bolts to rough wall if it is 10" rough then you will need the same for your w.c. likely a special order but is common. will the hight of the floor be changing?

the rough in for water supply should be 5" left from center and about 6" above floor, unless you will be installing a wider trim, the supply and escouchen should be above it.

the lav, make sure the plumbing will be in the cabinet and not interfere drawers or shelves, you may want to get the cabinet specs for this. or will it be a pedestal?

99altrade 12-22-2010 11:35 AM

Thanks for the replies.
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ltnicks (Post 555377)
agree with both replies.

as said with the w.c. measure from bolts to rough wall if it is 10" rough then you will need the same for your w.c. likely a special order but is common. will the hight of the floor be changing?

The floor height will be approximately the same as I am removing the old ceramic flooring and installing new porcelain or marble. If necessary, I can make sure to build new floor to similar height. I will likely be purchasing a modern looking one-piece toilet.

the rough in for water supply should be 5" left from center and about 6" above floor, unless you will be installing a wider trim, the supply and escouchen should be above it.

Can you elaborate on this a bit? Assume I know nothing. You mean 5" left from center of toilet floor drain opening, and then 6" up, correct?

the lav, make sure the plumbing will be in the cabinet and not interfere drawers or shelves, you may want to get the cabinet specs for this. or will it be a pedestal?

In terms of the sink, I plan to build a vanity ( I have an extra espresso stained kitchen table in storage from pottery barn with nice chunky legs that I thought I would cut up and build to size/specs), and possible create a concrete top - looking for warm contemporary look. So I can build the vanity to accommodate the plumbing, inside vanity cabinet.

broox 12-22-2010 11:50 AM

My opinion: One piece commodes flush very poorly and are expensive and difficult to repair. Maybe other guys have had better luck, But I recommend against them.

99altrade 12-22-2010 03:22 PM

Toilet
 
Bummer. I was much more attracted to the one-piece look, but if they are a poor choice in terms of quality, flushing, and faultiness I may skip it.
Quote:

Originally Posted by broox (Post 555426)
My opinion: One piece commodes flush very poorly and are expensive and difficult to repair. Maybe other guys have had better luck, But I recommend against them.


99altrade 12-22-2010 03:26 PM

I'm reading the above posts and appreciate the input. Much of it I don't understand but am trying to read up and learn.

We plan to remain in our home for years to come, but return on investment is very important to me in renovation.

Also, assuming on a limited budget, looking at the photos, among the things you guys laid out, and anything else, what are things that you guys would say DEFINITELY take care of or change before closing things up, in contrast to things that are good to do but not urgent while open. Personally I like to overbuild and I'd overhaul everything if I could, but on a strict budget.

Thanks again for advice.

braindead 12-22-2010 06:26 PM

>>>what are things that you guys would say DEFINITELY take care of or change before closing things up, in contrast to things that are good to do but not urgent while open. Personally I like to overbuild and I'd overhaul everything if I could, but on a strict budget.<<,

What I would do is to replace all the galvanized drains with pvc; the vents can stay.

I would not close up any wall until I knew WHAT toilet and WHAT lavatory you are using, not a good idea to try to rough-in without knowing the EXACT measurments that come with the fixture; wouldn't be fun to have to take the wall down. :huh:

bob22 12-22-2010 09:46 PM

"I would not close up any wall until I knew WHAT toilet and WHAT lavatory you are using, not a good idea to try to rough-in without knowing the EXACT measurments that come with the fixture; wouldn't be fun to have to take the wall down."

Good idea; don't forget any changes that might come about due to floor height changes if you add tile, etc... when you measure.

oh'mike 12-22-2010 10:29 PM

Minor--I'd add 1/2" stubouts now--to receive your new water shutoffs at the sink and toilet--

That will make it easier to install drywall and vanity--also let you get the system under presure before the drywall goes up.----Mike---

One other item---check height and location for the electric outlet--old vanities were short--new styles are taller----electric may be to low-----

Ltnicks 12-23-2010 10:48 AM

the rough in for water supply should be 5" left from center and about 6" above floor, unless you will be installing a wider trim, the supply and escouchen should be above it.

Can you elaborate on this a bit? Assume I know nothing. You mean 5" left from center of toilet floor drain opening, and then 6" up, correct?



sorry for the late reply, and yes you understand correctly:thumbsup:


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