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Fix-It Chick 11-04-2007 01:14 PM

Deep Well - Wiring Control Box and Pressure Switch
1 Attachment(s)
Hi, I'm hoping there's someone out there who can help me with this problem. I'm trying to wire a new control box and pressure switch into my system. The old one had been disconnected and so I can't use it as a template or even reuse the wires.

Set Up (see attached diagram):
Split phase 3/4 HP 3-wire pump - Black, White, Ground from the breaker box. Red, Yellow, Black from the pump (no ground). I wired the pump into the control box (R,Y,B), and lines 1 and 2 from the control box into the pressure switch load terminals. From there, I marretted Line 1 to White from the breakers, Line 2 to Black, completed the grounds, and got set to celebrate, but when I flicked the power on, nothing happened! I have a tester thingy that beeps when current is detected, and all lines and terminals are showing current.

I don't understand... any ideas?

chris75 11-04-2007 07:08 PM

If you followed the diagram I don't see the problem...

scrapiron 11-04-2007 07:41 PM

Do you know if the pump was working before the old controls were removed?

Fix-It Chick 11-04-2007 10:43 PM

Ya, the pump works fine. As it is, it's bypassed the controls completely and is wired directly to the line from the breaker. The only thing is, I understand that's not good for either the pressure tank (new) or my electricity bill. I'm wondering if maybe I'm using the wrong gauge of wire or if maybe the pressure switch is hooped? It was kicking around the shed for a year or so. It's never been used, but maybe the settings are off? The control box is also new - maybe it's defective?

frenchelectrican 11-05-2007 12:09 AM

there are two thing what happend there :

1] bad pressure switch [ i did see that happend once a while ]

2] some pressure switch do have " low pressure kick out " to order to reset it you have to hold the bypass lever on for few seconds to get the pressure build up first to get above the min pressure setting [ typically over 20 PSI ]

3] sometime get new pressure switch go bad from factory

4] {kinda rare but true } one of the spring is out of line or calbearted that part i genrallly dont mess with the springs setting kinda tricky to expain how to readjust it without get other part of system screw up

5] it possbile if the pressure switch is on the outside of the area that subject to frezzing tempture ?

those info will help a bit with it

Merci, Marc

Fix-It Chick 11-05-2007 09:53 AM

Thanks. I guess I'll start with the easiest (and cheapest) first. When installed, temps were above freezing, so I don't think that's the problem, but winter hit yesterday (-15C yuk).The tank is full and pressure gauge reads 100%, so theoretically the pressure should already be above 20 PSI? I will try to find a bypass lever. Failing this, I will try replacing the pressure switch.... wish me luck.

Fix-It Chick 11-13-2007 11:32 PM

OK. I cleaned the contacts on the switch, tried holding the lever open (I assume you meant the lever that holds the contacts open), and I even replaced the pressure switch - nothing. I can hear humming in the control box, so I know there is power going to it, but it doesn't seem to be making it to the pump. Maybe a break in the wire? A defective control box? Any other ideas?

NateHanson 11-14-2007 08:06 AM

I think you want to hole the lever down so the contacts are closed. On my pressure switch, that lever is on the top of the switch once the cover is removed.

Fix-It Chick 11-14-2007 10:14 AM

When I first hook it up, the pressure in the tank is 100%. I flush a few times and run water so the pressure will drop and the pump will kick in, but it just drops to zero when the tank runs out. At this point, the contacts are closed (touching), which is why I held them open... I will check it when the pressure is high - maybe they are open then.

Fix-It Chick 11-14-2007 10:17 AM

BTW - There is an arch when the contacts open and close. This is normal, yes?

Fix-It Chick 11-15-2007 10:27 AM

Just curious... Could the pump itself be wired incorrectly? The original pump that we replaced did not have a ground and so the wires all matched up. If there was no ground from the house to the well and so they grounded to the yellow, could this affect the overall operation of the pump? Could this be an issue here? Thanks again (and in advance) for your help.

Fix-It Chick 11-21-2007 12:19 PM

1 Attachment(s)
OK, Here's where I'm at...

Originally Posted by Fix-It Chick (Post 73781)
OK. I cleaned the contacts on the switch, the contacts are already in the closed position, and I even replaced the pressure switch - nothing. I can hear humming in the control box, so I know there is power going to it, but it doesn't seem to be making it to the pump. Maybe a break in the wire? A defective control box? Any other ideas?

I did all that AND I returned the control box and replaced it with a new one (just in case it was defective). Same thing... I can hear humming in the control box, but the pump does not come on even when the pressure is at 0 and contacts on the switch are closed.

I'm assuming the wires from the panel to the switch are good as are the pump wires, because when I wire direct to the panel (B-B, R-W, Y-G) the pump runs fine, it just doesn't shut off when pressure is reached. So, I replaced the wires from the pressure switch to the control box, in case there was a break somewhere in that line.

Still nothing.

I checked the wiring under the well cap (R-R, B-B, Y-Y) and called the guy who installed the pump to find out what he did with the ground. He said that he grounded the pump to the well casing.

My next thought is that I should check the wiring at the breaker? How should it be set up for this type of pump?

Below is a diagram of the current set up. I seem to recall that if we set up the breakers next to each other across poles (i.e. 17/15), the pump would not run if direct wired, it had to have that space in between...

I really hope someone out there has some more ideas - this $300/mo electricity bill is killing me.


Stubbie 11-21-2007 01:27 PM

This would appear to be your problem. You have the breakers on the same leg. One of them needs to be on a opposite leg from the other.. Move one of the breakers either up one position or down one position. This will give you the 240 volts needed for the pump motor. Use a voltage tester to verify this. If you put a probe to each breaker lug ( measure between them) you should read 240 volts or close. If they are on the same leg you will get no voltage.

As an added note if you use a double pole breaker (you should) then this opposite leg deal is taken care of for you.

In your drawing looking at the rows in vertical terms each pair of odd numbers... ie.... (1 and 3).....(5 and 7).....(21 and 23) are opposite legs to each other. Same deal on the other side with the even numbers. So position 15 and 19 are the same leg... you don't want this. I would go get a double pole breaker (not a tandem breaker) and use it then your worries are over.

Fix-It Chick 11-21-2007 02:07 PM

OK- I'm ready to start probing the breaker panel. I think I'll flick the MAIN power switch first... If you don't hear back from me in, say, 2 hrs... call 911!:eek:

NateHanson 11-21-2007 02:51 PM

You won't get any voltage if you flick the Main breaker first.

You'll need to measure the voltage with the main on. However, you don't need to do that. Go buy a double-pole breaker (what size wire is used for the pump circuit? if 12, get a 20A breaker). Then, with the main off, move the breaker in space 17 to space 19, wire both pump wires to the double pole breaker, and install that in space 15 and 17. Then turn on that main and you're good to go.

When you wired the pump directly to the panel, where did you hook it up?

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