Custom Shower addition plumbing questions

alxv

Hi to all,
My first post on here.. hope i'll get some help on some of my questions..

I'm starting to remodel my bathroom and want to make sure i plan everything ahead. bare with me i'll have many questions and hope you guys can help me..

Previously the bathroom had only a jet bath and i'm now adding a custom tiled shower.

Plumbing runs on 1/2 copper lines.

Tub moves a bit so the drain has to be moved too

#1 If the drain that was already in places is realy close to were it was before but that the P-trap is not right after the tub drain but maybe a foot further... does this makes a big difference or it as to be right underneat it ?

The shower i am installing will the the following :

1 rain shower kohler watertile (see here)

3 or 4 Kohler watertile bodysprays (see here)

1 regular Showerhead

I will use 3 volume control valves for those items and will be all tied up to a thermostatic valve


#2 I'm worried that a 1/2 pipe won't be enough for this type of system and that the pressure won't be enough... i know for the bodysparays i'm supposed to do a pressure balancing loop. any suggestions??? comments ?

i'm pretty close to the water heater if that makes a difference.

#3 since i have no previous experience in this... could all these devices should be run on 1 water line or on multiples ?

#4 what about the shower drain.. all plumbing surounding this area is 1 1/2.. is having a 2" drain that neccessary ?

#5 i thought of running PEX instead of copper... would this be a good idea ? or should i just stay with copper ?

#6 the thermostatic valvel that i looked at are kohler too.. they come or in 1/2" or 3/4". could i use a 3/4 valve with fittings on the water feed? would that help the output ?

If you want you can look at the specs of the kohler devices i mentionned maybe that will help you in knowing what is needed

I really thank you all for you help

Alex

ScottR

I'd go with 3/4" supply lines if you plan on running all of those at once. I'm sure the mfr. supplies gpm (gallon per minute) flow rates for all those fixtures; if you add them up, that's the gpm you need in your water supply to get full performance out of the fixtures. (Your valves, etc, may be restrictive and only allow a certain gpm even on full-open, so you'd have to look at those specs too).

The easiest way to find out what kind of GPM you'll get out of your 1/2" lines is to time how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket and do some math. It all depends on what kind of water pressure you've got. (Preferably fill the bucket right out of a pipe with no fixure on it -- your outdoor water spout would give you a good number though). If that number is a lot lower than the total gpm for your fixtures, you should use 3/4". If the numbers are close, you could probably do OK with 1/2". If someone flushes the toilet, though, you may get a severe pressure drop in the shower.

Being close to the water heater will make it easier to run 3/4" lines and help your shower heat up faster, but otherwise no difference.

All the shower devices should be run off of one mixing valve (and hence 1 hot and 1 cold supply). Not sure if you mean all the devices in the bathroom tho; in that case, sure, you could leave the toilet, tub, vanity, etc on the current 1/2", and just run a new line for the shower.. That would definately work better for the person in the shower if the sink gets turned on (less pressure drop).

On a regular old shower, 1 1/2" would probably work OK, though I think it's supposed to be 2" (not sure if that's a local thing). For your monster shower , again, the drain would have to be able to take away all the water that your fixtures put out (which also may depend upon whether or not you go for 3/4" supplies). If I were doing what you describe, I'd probably use 3" to be on the safe side.. 2" sounds slim though.

Nothing wrong with PEX, IMO. Other opinions do vary. I'd say use copper if you're comfortable with copper and you have the tools/supplies for it on hand. B/c you said your water heater was close, PEX would proably just cost you more money in the end (because you'd have to by a couple of tools and some fittings.. the PEX itself is much cheaper than copper, yes, but fittings are not).

Scott