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pvhs 03-26-2010 11:22 AM

culligan rustmaster controller
 
The control has an electric motor and cycles a cam that forces the control valve in and out. That cam is busted. I tried to make a replacement that worked for a while but it is obviously not good enough. Where can I get a replacement part online?

The valve when cycling leaks. Can it be removed and repaired?:eek:

Thanks in advance for any assistance

Gary Slusser 03-26-2010 11:57 AM

You should ask Culligan about the part.

Akpsdvan 03-26-2010 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pvhs (Post 419947)
The control has an electric motor and cycles a cam that forces the control valve in and out. That cam is busted. I tried to make a replacement that worked for a while but it is obviously not good enough. Where can I get a replacement part online?

The valve when cycling leaks. Can it be removed and repaired?:eek:

Thanks in advance for any assistance

Culligan parts are culligan parts.... you might find some one that has one laying around ...

Is it that white cam with a hole in the center and a circle on the top half and an egg shape on the bottom half?

pvhs 03-27-2010 07:43 PM

Rust Master Controller
 
I do not remember the original color. It is a small rectangle that connects the valve plunger to the electric motor inside the controller behind the face plate. When the cam rotates it forces the plunger to cycle through what appears to be four positions. This material that makes the interface between the motor and plunger is what is broken.

Akpsdvan 03-27-2010 07:45 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by pvhs (Post 420532)
I do not remember the original color. It is a small rectangle that connects the valve plunger to the electric motor inside the controller behind the face plate. When the cam rotates it forces the plunger to cycle through what appears to be four positions. This material that makes the interface between the motor and plunger is what is broken.

Under the metal plate?

One end has a pin and the other a bolt nut?

The white plastic ?

pvhs 03-28-2010 07:25 AM

Rust Master
 
That's it. You know where I could get one of those?? Maybe even two. They seem to not be all that well manufactured to handle the load.

NHMaster 03-28-2010 11:22 AM

I may have one, I'll check my junk pile tomorrow.

Akpsdvan 03-28-2010 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pvhs (Post 420678)
That's it. You know where I could get one of those?? Maybe even two. They seem to not be all that well manufactured to handle the load.

I know that I have a few.
One should get the seal and space piston cage out,, that bound some how and that is the reason the plastic broke.

pvhs 03-28-2010 12:32 PM

Rust Master Control
 
Akpsdvan That looks simple enough to do. I would need a new seal and possibly an O-ring if that is what it takes. It cycles but is tight. What do you recommend. Should we go offline so we can negotiate the price of the repair parts? pvhs@bytesdefense.com

Akpsdvan 03-28-2010 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pvhs (Post 420789)
Akpsdvan That looks simple enough to do. I would need a new seal and possibly an O-ring if that is what it takes. It cycles but is tight. What do you recommend. Should we go offline so we can negotiate the price of the repair parts?

Ever had the valve apart?
They are not that hard, just a kind of pain on a couple of the screws.. like the one behind that white cam on top that is one of three that holds that front plate to the valve body..
On the back there is that metal clip large that goes through the valve to hold a plug in at the back end of the piston cage.
Each spacer is screwed to the next spacer... a 3/4 socket I think works to use as a driver to push out that cage..

**this while the valve is off the tank**

The rubber O rings that are between the spacers get dry to say.. and that O ring that is around the piston that the plastic link hooks on can go bad.. that is one O ring that I have not tried to replace so not sure about the size or that another one of mine or Fleck would work...

Culligan part books are Very Rare!! makes it even more fun to work on...:laughing:

pvhs 03-28-2010 03:41 PM

culligan Rust Master
 
I just completed taking it apart. It was straight forward. Be sure to cut the water.... First came the face big cam that controls the micro switches. You only have to take the big philips bolt off the micro switches. The these switches come off as a unit. The Big cam has a ring key that retains it. It is easily removed and lifts off. You can then remove the three philip screws holding the metal face and electronics to the controller body. Pull off the wires noting where each goes. Be sure to remove power first....... The drain valve on the left of the controller body is controlled by a u-pin that easily lifts out. Remove the retaining plates at the base of the controller body. Remove the two big philips on the top back of the body. Partially lift the rear U-pin to unlatch it from the rear plate that loads the bypass assembly. Wiggle and lift to free from the base and the back. Comes out easily. Remove the plastic cover that retains the metal valve stem and the stem and plunger comes completely out. I also removed every other bit to give any O-rings a spin and made sure they were okay. Reassemble as taken apart. I added some Vaseline to the plunger to help with the seal. All back together and everything is moving very smoothly. All I need now is the white plastic cam that connects the motor to the valve and I think I will be completely operational again. Thanks to all.

Akpsdvan 03-28-2010 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pvhs (Post 420851)
I just completed taking it apart. It was straight forward. Be sure to cut the water.... First came the face big cam that controls the micro switches. You only have to take the big philips bolt off the micro switches. The these switches come off as a unit. The Big cam has a ring key that retains it. It is easily removed and lifts off. You can then remove the three philip screws holding the metal face and electronics to the controller body. Pull off the wires noting where each goes. Be sure to remove power first....... The drain valve on the left of the controller body is controlled by a u-pin that easily lifts out. Remove the retaining plates at the base of the controller body. Remove the two big philips on the top back of the body. Partially lift the rear U-pin to unlatch it from the rear plate that loads the bypass assembly. Wiggle and lift to free from the base and the back. Comes out easily. Remove the plastic cover that retains the metal valve stem and the stem and plunger comes completely out. I also removed every other bit to give any O-rings a spin and made sure they were okay. Reassemble as taken apart. I added some Vaseline to the plunger to help with the seal. All back together and everything is moving very smoothly. All I need now is the white plastic cam that connects the motor to the valve and I think I will be completely operational again. Thanks to all.

You did good, sounds like time to work for one of the treatment companies:thumbsup:

You still have the pin and the little screw and bolt for that plastic part?

Bob999 03-28-2010 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pvhs (Post 420851)
I added some Vaseline to the plunger to help with the seal. All back together and everything is moving very smoothly. All I need now is the white plastic cam that connects the motor to the valve and I think I will be completely operational again. Thanks to all.

Vasoline is a no-no on rubber parts. It will cause them to deteriorate quickly. You should use a silicone grease as lubricant.

Akpsdvan 03-28-2010 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob999 (Post 420897)
Vasoline is a no-no on rubber parts. It will cause them to deteriorate quickly. You should use a silicone grease as lubricant.

True.. and it does not take much of the silicone to go a long way..

Davesh 02-13-2013 06:04 PM

need cam please
 
Oops, this is intended for Akpsdvan but open to anyone who's willing to sell me this part!

I see where about 3 years ago you were able to find a plastic "cam" that moves the regeneration valve in the rustmaster control. Above !!!

Mine broke today. To be accurate, it jammed which cracked it. I unhitched the arm from the plunger rod (just the U-pin) and was able to move the plunger in and out with pliers. I hooked everything up and it has regenerated twice without sticking again...but it's just temporary I fear unless I can find that part, disassemble and clean then re-assemble.

I'm reasonably familiar with the assembly as about a year ago I cleaned it all out and added new media from Culligan. By the way to other readers...this was not an absurdly difficult task and the unit has functioned nicely for a year...BUT...the tank is really heavy so I recommend finding a friend or helper.

The instructions you posted above seem reasonable for my "skill level".

Any chance you have this part? Obviously I'm willing to pay.


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