CSST wall penetration - PVC sleeve
I noticed Omegaflex recomends a PVC sleeve for exterior wall penetrations. Would anyone care to share some best practices for securing the sleeve and making the exterior portion aesthetically pleasing?
Anyone have any experience using PVC as a wall penetration sleeve whether it's for CSST (Tracpipe, etc.) or for another application?
I run 2" PVC (OD) for vac lines for a living. I also plan to run tracpipe through my rim joist and outer brick veneer for a BBQ gas line. Whenever I penetrate a rim joist I bore dead center and use a 2 1/8 or 2 1/4 self feed bit. I gebnerally fish LV wire through the same hole so 2 1/4 gives me a snug but not tight opening. I then silicone around the pipe.
When I sleeve this gas line I will bore the same way and likely extend the pipe with a sweep 90 elbow (vac pipe term for gentle curve, on either side) so as not to allow the gas line to kink.
To keep my vac pipe elbows flush to the wall at exit point I always countersink about 1" at my exit hole by going oversize 1/2" in diameter. This is in order to hide the joint in the counster sink hole and then I silicone. Esthetically pleasing and easy to clamp that way.
By countersinking I also keep the original bore close to air tight inside and eliminate wobble when glueing from opposite sides of the wall.
I don't know if your area has code for thickness of sleeves. Where I live I am told there is no code but it's worth checking with the gas company.
Also check if you use the elbow trick, to see if your piping is UV resistant for exposure to sun. Some pipe yellows and gets brittle in sunlight, I suspect the new PVC used for furnace exhaust pipe is more UV resistant than vac pipe.:thumbsup:
Thanks response. That's a great idea. I don't get the clamping part. What are clamping? I was planning on using the grey UV resistant conduit stuff. What do you do when your point of entry is through sheathing instead of the rim joist?
Because I run vac line and it generally requires a 90 degree turn where I exit a wall into a garage, I like to countersink the elbow. In my business a sharp radius 90 elbow is designed as a trap so it is never to be used down line, only at an inlet valve.
With vac lines I prefer to secure to pipe to the garage wall so the countersink keeps the elbow and pipe extension flush against the outer wall whch means I can secure the pie with a hanger or pipe clamp neiar the same spot and flush to the rim joist and the pipe hanger is not hanging out 1/2 to 3/4 inches off the wall.
The proifile of a wide radius 90 elbow would normally make the elbow extend from the wall otherwise and the clamp would not look tidy or be as secure and whereas a countersunk elbow secured flush to the wall is less of a risk for damage.
I rarely go through sheathing but I would treat it the same. I drill the rim joist with a self feed bit. But from the outside, outer material such as drywall or brick I do with my hole saws or a masonary core bit first. A hole saw is probably your best bet for sheathing. If you decide to exit with an elbow carefully select the countersink diameter so you don't have a large gaping hole to caulk later.
I think using the elbow would protect the gas line better in my case as the pipe will exit down line from where the BBQ will sit.
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