CPVC Installation Questions

Pittsville

The hits just keep on coming... lol. Another question:

When it comes to my stub-outs... I'm sure we can all agree that it's a bad idea to stub-out in the 1/2" CPVC. (Especially in areas where the pipe might easily be damaged) So I'm considering installing CPVC transition drop ears and then threaded nipples or threaded copper stubs (do they make these?) to come out of the wall/floor. In the case of the nipple, I could use a FPT stop valve and in the case of the copper stub, a regular compression stop.

Thoughts on this subject?

So I found these stub-outs which appear to eliminate the need for a drop ear. They look promising...

Pittsville

Bump.

Pittsville

Doc,

So far I've mistaken the pipe for polyethylene and EPDM tubing, but now after some more research, I think that you're right about the poly-blu. The tube is blue in color with what looks like a very thin grey lining on the inside. (The lining flakes off when trying to insert a brass barbed fitting.) The tube itself is somewhat flexible... I can squash it into an oval between my fingers. There is only about 6" of the tube sticking out of the ground, so I can't really see any notable markings. I found a photo online that looks pretty close to the pipe I'm dealing with... attached below. Based on my description, does this sound like exterior poly-blu? If so, it's only the run from the water meter into the house and should be easy to replace. I won't have time until Spring, so I plan on using the existing pipe for the time being. Do you see any issues with waiting a few months? When replacing the pipe, what's my best option... PVC?

Docwhitley

Looks like and sounds like Polyblu to me... Will you be ok till Spring??? I wish I could say yes or no... Unfortunately only time will tell. If it is not leaking then I would not worry about it. Just keep in mind that it will eventually fail. If it was me... I would wait till Spring. I like Polyethylene. Here your options are the Poly or soft copper. The reason I like the Poly is that you are able to make it bend a lot easier. Again it is just my preference and both you and your installer should consider what is best.

Here is the route I would take
If there are no trees in the way
I would Dig a hole at the meter and a hole at the house.
Cut the water line at both locations.
Feed a cable back through the water line
Attach one end to my pipe splitter other end to my winch
and slowly pull!
connect at meter
(while doing this)I have a guy drill a hole and feed a PVC sleeve trough the wall.
I feed pipe trough the sleeve.
Install new shut off, back flow, and if need expansion tank.
clean up
and collect payment

If Trees are in the way
Dig the trench instead of pulling


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeHodiqHcx4

Now cost wise depends on if I can schedule more than 1 in a day. If so I just grab my Ram and tow the equipment and I split the equipment rental between however many jobs I have that day. I have pulled 4 on a 16 hour day before to save customers money.

Big advantage to pulling is the ground is not disturbed so there is not settling. Disadvantage is i have pulled the pipe across a Jagged rock and that caused a hole... But then again I offer a lifetime warranty so customers like that chance

michaelcherr

I bought a rental house plumbed with cpvc, wheb I had to replace a bunch of shutoffs (I wish they would stop making the crappy ones) I couldn't get some of the old ones off without breaking the cpvc male fitting. So I decided on all my repairs not to use the CPVC threaded males or females.
The CPVC to metal threaded transition pieces are pricey at around $4-5 compared to a few pennies, but my time is worth something.
The 1/4 turn ones should last longer, but if someone ever replaces them, they will thank me.

I love pex for the lack of fittings needed and it being easy to retrofit, but I did find it difficult to make it look professional as you complained. Good thing I didn't care much about that cuz it was easy.

Pittsville

Great advice Doc, thanks!

I had a 3/4" nylon barb x 3/4" MPT adapter in the pipe with a CPVC special female adapter screwed into it. After learning that the special female adapter is a bad idea, I've decided to go with a transition adapter instead. Since the transition adapter has metal female threads, I decided to replace the nylon pipe adapter with a brass version. I was able to free the nylon adapter fairly easily, but I'm having a heck of time getting the barbs of the brass adapter into the tube. I've tried heating the tube, but this wasn't all that helpful. I was thinking about spreading some joint compound onto the barbs to help them slide a bit. The compound that I have is approved for metal and plastic pipe. Any negative side effects to taking this approach?

the_man

Either use a heat gun to heat the plastic, or dip the pipe into boiling water for a minute or so. should soften it up enough to get the barb in. i wouldn't put anything on the pipe/barbs to help it slide in, it could also help it slide back out (i've seen it happen)

Pittsville

The pipe only sticks up about 6" out of the ground, so the boiling water would be tough. I'll keep trying to heat it up with the heat gun. (Fingers crossed)

Duly noted about putting pipe dope on the barbs.

JoeLena

Have you been moving along with this? I'm interested to learn what you've decided to stub things out with, as I'm about to begin a similar project.

Pittsville

After much research and some trial and error, I've found that the best approach for me is the following:

I'm terminating my fixture runs with 1/2" female drop ear transition fittings. Into each fitting I'll screw a 4" finishing nipple for my stub-out. I'll be screwing 1/2" female stop valves onto the nipples and then using standard supply risers. The nipple, stop valve, escutcheon plate and riser will all be rubbed bronze to match our fixtures. Pipe dope on all threaded unions.