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Old 11-15-2011, 11:33 AM   #1
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couple of toilet install questions


I had to tear out a bathroom floor and put down a new one. It's two inches of plywood sheets for reasons I won't go into.

First problem. As a rookie DIYer, I cut out a seven inch circle in each sheet of plywood to lay over the toilet flange (so the flange just touches the plywood on the outside perimeter and is sitting just below the top of the subfloor). Now I realize that the flange is supposed to sit ON the floor, not in the floor. So I've removed the old iron flange and what I have is a four inch pipe centered in a 7 inch hole in the floor.
Should I go under the house and put in firring strips and then build up a two inch thick plywood circle around the pipe that the new flange can screw into? If so, how much air gap should I leave around the pipe, or should it be tight with the floor?
Also, on the flange, I bought the exact same one, iron one with threads on the bottom to go inside the pipe and a big rubber band around it.
Just to test it out, I tried to push it into the pipe the other day, and it only went in an inch or so before it stopped. How do I get this flange into the pipe? The directions I saw said to tilt it, twist it, right it, and push down. Didn't happen for me. Suggestions?

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Old 11-15-2011, 07:41 PM   #2
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couple of toilet install questions


This sounds more like a band-aid than a fix. Why don't you consider cutting out a box around the toilet flange pipe, joist center to joist center? If you have a two inch floor, you should not have to box out the opening for support. cut your replacement with a hole for the pipe...glue it and screw it in place. Now your done...finish flooring...install you replacement flange...screw it down...and mount your toilet. This looks to me to be a lot faster than what you are considering.

Just my opinion...

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Old 11-16-2011, 03:01 PM   #3
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couple of toilet install questions


that's true, but in this case, I've already put down the tile floor. I'd have to cut it too, and it would show past the toilet on either side.
on the other questions, should the pipe be snug in the hole, or have space around it
and how hard should I have to push to get that flange in? I was just using my hands last time, but it didn't go very far
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Old 11-16-2011, 05:17 PM   #4
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couple of toilet install questions


We could use a picture here---

You will need to build up that hole from underneath---I think that pulling out the Iron 90 and swapping the assembly with PVC might make the most sense---pictures if you can---Mike---
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:41 PM   #5
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couple of toilet install questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by wengang1 View Post
that's true, but in this case, I've already put down the tile floor. I'd have to cut it too, and it would show past the toilet on either side.
on the other questions, should the pipe be snug in the hole, or have space around it and how hard should I have to push to get that flange in? I was just using my hands last time, but it didn't go very far
Oh, I didn't know about the tile thing...yep...now it's fix it time.

From underneath...how much room do you have around the flange pipe?

Here's what I'd do...regardless of whether you want to use the existing pipe or change over to PVC. Cut two 12 inch sections of 2X6...clamp them together, cut a 4-1/2 inch hole in the middle of them. Go under house, slide them up around the pipe, leaving about a quarter of an inch around the pipe...screw the new boards to the subfloor using 3 inch screws. (You could use construction adhesive and screws, if you like.)

You can now buy spacers and stack them to the top edge of the tile...then, and this is what I'd use, buy an Oatey replacement flange, part number, 43539...available from Sears on-line, and other places, but not from the Lowe's near my home. After your spacers are in place...install the Oatey flange, making sure that all the screw holes for your flange and spacers line up...tighten the allen screws to expand the gasket...now screw it to the 2X6 fix that you installed. You should be good to go.

***Actually, you might want to screw the flange and spacers down first, and then tighten the allen screws to expand the gasket. This way, you would be sure that the flange gasket wasn't holding the flange against the screws.

If you decided to use new PVC...then spacers...new PVC flange, and then screw that to the 2x6 repair.

If you find that you are so close to a joist that a hole in the middle of the 2x6 pair won't work, then you can rip one of the 2X6's along the outer edge...so that it fits between the joist and the flange pipe, and then slide in the other one and there you are. Screw the 2x6's in place as before.

Anyways, that's my two cents...maybe you have a better idea...and I'm sure others will have better ideas...



Here's a link so that you can see the replacement flange that I'm talking about. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=SPM594570301

Last edited by Ed911; 11-16-2011 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:06 PM   #6
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couple of toilet install questions


Re-posting, somehow it got deleted.

1. What would be the advantage of taking out the iron 90 and switching to PVC (and how hard is it to remove)?
2. Just to be clear, I didn't mean tile floor. I glued down a roll of vinyl flooring (with a tile design). What I meant about that was that cutting a joist-to-joist section would mean cutting out the vinyl flooring. That would show badly later even if I could line up the design with a new piece of vinyl.
3. I could do the 2x6s, but that leaves me with two inches of floor to fill in. I wouldn't use two inches of spacers would I? I could cut the circle out ot a clean square of hte same width/diameter and replace it that way, and that wouldn't show beyond the toilet. So I guess I just need to screw in the 2x6s (with the pipe hole cut out) and then go back up to the bathroom and put in two inches of plywood to level it back to floor level.

I don't have any pictures. Just imagine a plywood floor 2 inches thick with a 7 inch diameter hole cut in it and the 4-inch toilet pipe sticking up through the center of the hole, stopping just below the surface of the floor.
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:05 PM   #7
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couple of toilet install questions


I can't answer as to number one. I would think that you still need to support the PVC flange so that it's not just hanging in the air.

I wouldn't cut out any more floor...no reason...it will just make a bigger hole that you don't need. Just use stacked spacers, or make some plywood donuts. Oatey and Set-Rite make spacers that will drop right in around the pipe...and you can build them up.

The only thing the spacers are doing is providing support for the flange...a base for you to screw them and the new replacement flange to the 2x6 fix. You have plenty of pipe...so you can use a replacement flange like the one that I suggested in conjunction with the spacers. Wax ring with sleeve on top...set toilet and there you go.

The floor around the toilet supports the toilet, so the only downward stress on the new flange and spacers is from compressing the wax ring. Don't worry about the spacers leaking in your case...because the new flange will slide inside of the old riser...all of your waist will pass from the new flange assembly into the riser pipe and never come in contact with the spacers...so no need to wax the spacers.

Be careful not not over tighten the screws holding down the new flange and spacers when you install the fix. And, try to keep your flange pretty level.

Here's a toilet flange repair video using an Oatey 43539...so you can see how it works. You can see how easily the new flange fits inside of the old riser pipe.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jagk5...eature=related

Note: You might want to make your 2x6's a little longer so that you have more surface to put screws in.
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Old 11-17-2011, 04:02 PM   #8
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couple of toilet install questions


OK
I see what you mean now.
I had to google image spacers. I was picturing some kind of shim.
That would work, but I like the plywood donuts idea better.

The rest looks straightforward.
Thanks.

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