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Old 07-05-2013, 03:29 PM   #1
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Correcting washing machine drain


Just purchased this house and one spot the inspector and myself missed was the drain for the washing machine. I am attaching an image (not to scale) of the current setup but I will also describe.
Current:
-Washing machine discharge hose goes into rubber hose with slightly large diameter using a worm gear clamp to keep them tight
-Rubber Hose exits floor (not wall) and enters Y PVC pipe in basement
-Other side of Y is open
-PVC continues with adequate slope for roughly 18' before merging with main drain

I know the ideal would be to open up the wall and install a vent to ceiling and merge with main vent in attic. I am cautious because the wall is exterior and plaster and lathe. I have limited plumbing experience and no plaster and lathe experience.

Current plan:
-Install a PVC pipe to replace rubber hose (ideally in the wall with washer box)
-Install P-trap
-Close open side of Y or install air admittance valve

Questions:
1) What to do with open Y PVC?
2) Where does P-trap need to be located? (Main floor or will basement work)


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Old 07-05-2013, 04:12 PM   #2
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Correcting washing machine drain


Questions first---the existing drain pipe (18 feet) is it 2" ??

Answers---if the drain is 2" --you need a vent before your new P-trap---can you find one in the basement that you can use?

If so---add a P-trap to the end of the pipe and run a stand pipe up through the floor.

If you must jog the pipe above the P-trap,use 45* fittings,never 90* elbows.

No vent in the basement? let us know and someone will tell you how to use an AAV (air admittance valve)---Mike----

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Old 07-05-2013, 08:10 PM   #3
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Correcting washing machine drain


Why bother doing anything if your not going to correct it properly?
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:20 PM   #4
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Correcting washing machine drain


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Originally Posted by KansasCity View Post
I know the ideal would be to open up the wall and install a vent to ceiling and merge with main vent in attic. I am cautious because the wall is exterior and plaster and lathe. I have limited plumbing experience and no plaster and lathe experience.
Since you don't feel comfortable with wall patching- surface mount it
Bring the 2" drain up through the floor, install a 2" trap and stand pipe, then surface mount a vent up to the vents in the attic
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:30 PM   #5
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Correcting washing machine drain


Most of this site seems to have a negative view of AAV, but do not plan on hiding behind drywall/ plaster. I would put a removable cover or grate to keep it accessible.

Can someone tell me if this is a better mock up? If this was an interior wall, I would feel more comfortable ripping up all of the plaster and running a vent to the attic. Removing the plaster seems worse than patching.

I plan on removing only a section between the studs of plaster to install the drain, AAV, and washing machine box.

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Old 07-06-2013, 12:22 AM   #6
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Correcting washing machine drain


AAV valves have there purpose. But a washer discharge is a pressurized pumped discharge. This discharge locks the AAV shut and defeats the venting action of the AAV.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:34 AM   #7
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Correcting washing machine drain


You know what my drain line is for my wash machine and laundry sink. It is a 1-1/2" PVC laying on the floor, then drains into the floor drain. It was the best solution, without having to jackhammer or saw into the concrete for the basement floor, to install a drain into the main waste line.

Originally the tub was on the other side of the house under the Kitchen, but later on it was located on the North side, and when we moved in, the owner who had lived in the house since her husband had built it, had a rubber hose with a AAV on the top, for the wash machine she was using, which we got with the house, along with the dryer.

If we ever have to move the upright deep freezer or dryer from the left side of the PVC, we place 2x6 on the floor, or if I do have to, I just have to cut the line and then fix with a slip joint, if I ever have to remove it for last resort.

Meets code for our area, since it is considered a proper method of draining the wash machine, and since the floor drain is a part of the waste line, there of course is always going to be a continuous exchange of new water in the trap for that drain. No AAV needed, since the end of the line just goes far enough into the drain, so that it still allows water to exit, but not where the end is so far into the drain that it is below the water line.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:03 PM   #8
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Correcting washing machine drain


Quote:
-PVC continues with adequate slope for roughly 18' before merging with main drain
how do you know the pitch is adequate??? excessive or insufficient ?
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:57 PM   #9
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how do you know the pitch is adequate??? excessive or insufficient ?

Good question. Based on measurements basically 18' run 9' rise. The previous owner ran a nearly constant slope the whole distance.

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