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Old 12-17-2006, 05:46 PM   #16
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Making a seal on the main drain pipe with lead and rope. My plumber still does that. But that has to be two cast iron big pipes meeting i believe. Where the big drain pipe meets the big drain pipe thats exiting the house.

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Old 12-18-2006, 05:41 AM   #17
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In the early 70's, most cast iron was still lead joints. This included 2". The joint I had to repour was a tranfer pipe and it was 12". Used for an overflow from one settling tank to another and since it was installed in a concrete wall, it was not an option to change materials.
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Old 12-21-2006, 11:38 AM   #18
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Can this Pex pipe be used without using the manifold. I am remodeling a bathroom and have to move the water lines and sweating would be somewhat difficult. Could I just tap in the basement where these lines originate from and transition to pex and then run the hot/cold up to the bathroom.

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Old 12-21-2006, 02:08 PM   #19
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Yes you can, we do it all the time.
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Old 12-23-2006, 01:54 PM   #20
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This subject is near and dear to my heart.

I've been living in my current home for ~ 2 years now. The house is around 11 years old.

In the last two months, I've had two slab leaks. One of which flooded three rooms, the other I heard before there was any water damage. That is the third (per the plumber) in this house. This time they had to jackhammer up my tile floor to get at it.

I want to repipe the house, because every leak is costing me $1,300 minimum, just to fix the leak. But, I dont really have the capital to spend 4-$7,000 to do it.

I've got some 'handyman' skills, and my Dad has alot more of them (he's volunteered to come down and lend a hand). Neither of us has worked with PEX, but we have added kitchens and baths to houses (with basements). We're considering trying to do a repipe ourselves.

How much of a pain is it to repipe a house? I know I have to yank off my mirrors, vanities, cut my drywall etc etc.

I don't really know how to break my incoming line and change it to PEX, considering its all buried and run straight to the slab. Do I dig it up at the point of entry, swap it over and then somehow (?) get it up in my wall to goto the attic?

It seems like a large job, even though its not a large house (1500ft2), just because everything is sitting below concrete! Is it even possible for a determined homeowner to tackle this themselves?
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Old 12-23-2006, 07:02 PM   #21
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Repipe can be or not be a pain to do, you will need to make the transition outside the slab, then run line into the wall of the house and taking it to the attic.

You will need a sweat x pex adaptor to make the transition, remember to insulate the pipe before you fix the slab and also insulate the pipes in the attic.

More questions just ask.
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:44 PM   #22
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hey ron, with respect to using pex. would you run separate lines from the source to a tub, toilet and sink in the bathroom or would it be safe to branch off in the walls or ceilings. im trying to figure what supplies i will need. i think im going to use the rti type...

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Old 12-28-2006, 10:59 PM   #23
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Just branch off in the walls or ceilings at that point the fixture is reached.
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:05 AM   #24
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Thanks for the info, I will let you know how it turned out.

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Old 01-12-2007, 10:28 PM   #25
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Im using the Pex and all is going well so far.

What is the closest you can run pex next to steam heat pipes.

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Old 01-12-2007, 10:31 PM   #26
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Well you don't want it to touch, keep in away a good 2 inches.
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Old 01-13-2007, 11:33 PM   #27
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Thanks Ron
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:16 PM   #28
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I did a serach and came up on this topic, I am facing the same problem as the guy with the ranch house, my question is, I am in PA, the only way to repipe my house is to go up in the attic which is not heated, will pex survie the cold winter and the hot summer up their? or should I go with the same type of foam insulation they put on refrigeration piping and I will be fine? Has anybody installed pex in a unheated attic already?
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Old 01-25-2007, 06:43 PM   #29
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We do put pex lines in attics at times, you will have better luck with them then with copper pipes up there, but do insulate the pipes that will be exposed.

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