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froddan 07-16-2007 01:42 PM

Connecting PVC to Galv Pipe fitting for Drain
1 Attachment(s)

I need to replace parts of a galvanized 1 1/4" drain wth 1 1/2 PVC pipe because I am adding a second lavatory sink.
The ends of the Galv pipe have Reducer bushings from 1 1/2 to 1 /1/4 so I intend on removing those and connect the PVC into a 'T'.

There are two problems, first the Galv fitting is really tight, and I can't seem to get it off...any tricks?

Second, how do I connect PVC to the Galv 'T'? I know to use Fernco or No-Hub fittings if I would cut the pipe off, but that is probbably not a good idea as the existing Galv Pipe is on 1 1/4.

Picture is attached.


rjniles 07-16-2007 05:07 PM

1 Cut Horizontal pipe and remove from reducing bushing
2 Install PVC male adaptor into reducer
3 Cut vertical pipe and remove tee andfixture arm
4 install PVC female adaptor on gal pipe coming out of floor (where you removed the tee
5 Hook back up with PVC with multiple fixture arms

Having said that: I would leave as is and tie the 2 sinks into a common trap and use what you have( just like a double bowl kitchen sink is hooked up)

RippySkippy 07-17-2007 05:48 AM

I'm with rjniles, keep it as is with a single trap from a double bowl.

I hope those with more plumbing experience chime in here...but from what I can tell it looks like if you try to remove the reducing bushing, you'll tighten the 90* elbow. It looks to me like the starting point for removal would be the T where the trap empties. If you remove it...make certain the lower portion is supported before removing. In addition, I don't think your volume limiting factor is with the vent, rather the drain flow away from the T. So if anything needs to be increased for size, it would be from the T down. Again this is only an opinion.

Unless this sink has given you cause for concern in the past, I'd leave it as is. How many times would both sinks be used to full capacity at the same times anyway?

Ron The Plumber 07-17-2007 08:42 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Cut out the tee and remove all pipe up to the reduced bushing and the bushing also.

Use a what we call a figure 5 fitting, plumbing will look like this when done.

froddan 07-17-2007 11:22 AM

Thanks for the replies!
Thanks for all the replies!
So this is what I did:
1. Cut the pipe at the horizontal bushing (no problem).
2. Removed the Bushings (This was brutal, took me over an hour with full force, this sucker was so tight...and I'm a pretty strong guy +200 lbs)

I did consider leaving as is and connect as a kitchen sink, but I was concerned about the 1 1/4 drain as it is not up to code for double sinks, and let me tell you, after removing the drain part, I'm happy I was pretty full of rust and the inside diameter could not have been more than 3/4".

Anyway, now I'm struggling with removing the drain pipe where it connects at the bottom. It is so tight I haven't been able to get it loose yet.
I'm sprayed a ton of WD 40, but still no luck. Any advice for removing tight galvanized connections?
Also, the reducer bushing went from a 2" to 1 1/4" so I guess I need some sort of reducer bushing that goes from 2 to 1 1/2".

Thanks again!

RippySkippy 07-17-2007 12:11 PM

sounds like your headed the right way...especially with the rust build up. What about the drain side? Not just the T but the actual it an 1-1/4" as well? While your at it, I'd make sure it had the capacity as well given the rust in the vent.

As for removing the the fitting, WD40 isn't the best penetrating might try PB Blaster or some of the other ones found in automotive store. If you have the space...which it looks like it might be kinda tight, take a sledge hammer and put it tight on on side of the fitting, the object is to keep it from moving away from the fitting as you or a helper strikes the opposite side with a standard hammer...don't kill it...just hit it firmly, repeatedly. Sometimes that's enough to start it to move. I'd be a bit concerned though that you may knock some of the rust loose if it's built up like you have seen in the vent.

Are you going back with pipe or PVC?

froddan 07-17-2007 12:18 PM


I guess I was a bit unclear in my previous post.
The drain pipe was the part that was built up with quite a bit of rust. The vent was actually ok, but everything was 1 1/4, so probably not enough to handle two sinks at full capacity (even though I doubt that will be used often).

I will replace with PVC 1 1/2".

I will try the other oil type and bang with a hammer...
Any thoughts on using heat? I'm not sure I will have enough room because it connects underneath the subfloor and it is pretty tight.

If I can't get it loose I think I will have to cut a section out and use no-hub fittings.

Thanks again!

froddan 07-17-2007 12:28 PM

Updated picture
1 Attachment(s)
Here is an updated/ edited picture with how it looks now.

RippySkippy 07-17-2007 12:33 PM

Heat may work, and I've heard from the engine guys that if you get it hot, press a candle into the threaded area, something about the wax helps to lubricate the threads. I'm not much of a fan using that much heat in a home though...have water handy!

If your not too worried about trashing the pipe and are ready to replace it anyway, get your self a 2-3 foot cheater and really bear down on it. Pull and release, pull and release. Worse case is that the pipe breaks but your were going to cut it anyway. For more control, have a couple of pipe wrenches and pull them to each other...less chance of causing an issue below the floor.

froddan 07-17-2007 12:38 PM

Heading out to Lowe's right now to get some PB Blaster, and will try the cheaters.
I'm not too worried about breaking the pipe as it would be ok if I have to replace the part underneath. The good part about having to make the cut is that I will be able to tell how much rust is in this part too. If I get the fitting to unscrew I will not be able to tell very well about the rust inside the pipe.

I appreciate your advice!!!

RippySkippy 07-17-2007 12:44 PM

Good luck...let us know how you get along!

redline 07-17-2007 01:27 PM

What floor is this on? (first, second..)
Do you have access to the 1 1/4 drain as it goes down threw the floor?

froddan 07-17-2007 01:40 PM

This is on the 2nd floor (1st floor is a finished basement).

The drain line goes down underneath the subfloor and connects to a 1 1/2" or possibly 2" line that goes parallell to the floor and then connects to the big stack that you can see to the right in the picture.

I will have to cut a part of the subfloor to connect the vertical drain pipe regardless if I choose to cut the horizontal pipe or if I manage to get it off its connection and screw it in. I will have some access, but it is very tight.
I don't want to cut a hole in the ceiling in the basement as it will require alot of work to get that look nice again.

froddan 07-18-2007 11:33 AM

Too tight...
So, it didn't budge. I couldn't get enough room to unscrew the fitting, even after soaking it in PB Oil, and heating it up.
Oh well, I will cut it off and use no-hub couplings instead. No big deal, it should even be better because I will get rid of some more of the somewhat rusty pipe and replace with PVC.

My only concern is how I should run the bends for the PVC.
It is all 1 1/2" pipe and it currently bends 1/8 to the left, than 45 degrees and then another 45 degrees.

Would it be ok to just have a 90 degree bend instead?

RippySkippy 07-19-2007 06:25 AM


Originally Posted by froddan (Post 53439)
So, it didn't budge.

I guess that's why they quit using iron for waste pipe...:whistling2:


Originally Posted by froddan (Post 53439) just have a 90 degree bend instead?

From the pictures, I don't see the 2 45* but that's ok. If it's in the vent portion you can use 1 90* vent street ell (top of page 19), if it's the waste portion and have the space, use a long turn sweep ell (bottom of page 19) if it won't fit use a standard one.

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