Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Plumbing

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-26-2011, 11:46 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10
Talking

Check valve


My water heater check valve has been replaced two times in the past two days. The plumber that changed it said that if it leaked again, I might have to install a water expansion tank. Is this what has to be added

gimaarob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 01:44 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 558
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Check valve


Are you sure it's a check valve, or are you talking about the t&p valve (temperature and pressure)?

Ishmael is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 06:53 AM   #3
DIY staff
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 22,090
Rewards Points: 2,822
Default

Check valve


Quote:
Originally Posted by gimaarob View Post
My water heater check valve has been replaced two times in the past two days. The plumber that changed it said that if it leaked again, I might have to install a water expansion tank. Is this what has to be added

You need an expansion tank---The T and P valve is working fine---
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to oh'mike For This Useful Post:
plumber666 (10-27-2011)
Old 10-27-2011, 10:15 AM   #4
Doing it myself
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Crescent City, CA
Posts: 3,762
Rewards Points: 2,024
Send a message via AIM to Alan Send a message via MSN to Alan
Default

Check valve


Replaced it twice in 2 days?
__________________
Journeyman Plumber
Alan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 10:31 AM   #5
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Check valve


It is the top valve on the side of the tank, I guess it's not called a check valve LOL. I guess it is called the T.P valve or pressure release valve. There is a small amount of water on the floor evey once in a while. Is there any danger, or is the valve doing it's job. Do I need to install a cold water expansion tank.
gimaarob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 10:39 AM   #6
Doing it myself
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Crescent City, CA
Posts: 3,762
Rewards Points: 2,024
Send a message via AIM to Alan Send a message via MSN to Alan
Default

Check valve


Quote:
Originally Posted by gimaarob View Post
It is the top valve on the side of the tank, I guess it's not called a check valve LOL. I guess it is called the T.P valve or pressure release valve. There is a small amount of water on the floor evey once in a while. Is there any danger, or is the valve doing it's job. Do I need to install a cold water expansion tank.
The valve is doing it's job. Especially if it's been changed twice, good lord, you'd think once would be enough!

Yes, you need a thermal expansion tank installed on the COLD side. Some people will swear to you that it's for thermal expansion it has to be on the hot side, blah blah blah, the cold side has a heat trap nipple blah blah blah. . . Doesn't matter, the MFG instructions on the tank will tell you to install it on the cold water system.
__________________
Journeyman Plumber
Alan is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Alan For This Useful Post:
plumber666 (10-27-2011)
Old 10-27-2011, 12:16 PM   #7
Member
 
AlbacoreShuffle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 131
Rewards Points: 75
Default

Check valve


Did you use the same " Plumber " both times the T&P was replaced ?
AlbacoreShuffle is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to AlbacoreShuffle For This Useful Post:
oh'mike (10-27-2011)
Old 10-27-2011, 04:21 PM   #8
JOATMON
 
ddawg16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: S. California
Posts: 7,568
Rewards Points: 2,466
Default

Check valve


What is between the cold input of the hot water tank and your severice? You should only need an expansion tank if you have a back flow preventer installed. That, or your water pressure is too high.
__________________
Even if you are on the right track, you will still get run over if you just sit there.

My 2-Story Addition Build in Progress Link ... My Garage Build Link and My Jeep Build Link
ddawg16 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 05:15 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,497
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Check valve


I am curious as to why things like this are happening, so if I had that problem, I would do more investigating before I came up with a solution.

First a T&P valve is a "Temperature and Pressure Valve" It is for your safety. If a water heater gets to be too hot (212 F), then the water will boil. When water boils, it turns to steam. Steam can have enough power to drive a train - or blow up your water heater!

Thus this valve will release water before it boils.

Also it is a pressure valve. If the pressure is too much, then it will release water - again to keep your water heater from blowing up.

With that said, I would check the temperature of the water when you notice it leaking. Is this close to the temperature listed on the T&P valve? If yes, reduce the temperature setting on the water heater. Or the water heater thermostat(s) may be defective and are keeping the heating on longer than it should. Fix the water heater or replace it if that is the problem.

If that was not the problem, I would install a water pressure gauge on the cold side. This will show what the water pressure is.

Water pressure can go up for two reasons...

One is a city will increase water pressure in the event of a fire. That is so the fire department has more water to fight a fire. Or they might have the pressure high so it will reach homes high up in hills and it is "borderline" too high.

The other is that there is a "one way valve" (check valve) at your water meter which only allows water to flow into your pipes, but not back out. When cold water is heated in a water heater, it expands. If that valve will not allow water to flow back out to the city, and you do not turn on any water faucets during this time, then pressure will build up in the pipes. If you had a pressure gauge, you would be able to see this.

If the pressure is too high, then open a hot water faucet, then shut it off. See if the pressure remains high or drops. If it drops, then it is a heat problem and an expansion tank would solve the problem.

If the pressure remains high, then it is coming from the city. If that is the case, you may be able to install a higher pressure T&P valve. Another option would be to install a pressure regulator on your main line. That would keep your plumbing water pressure lower than city water pressure.
Billy_Bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 08:58 PM   #10
Doing it myself
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Crescent City, CA
Posts: 3,762
Rewards Points: 2,024
Send a message via AIM to Alan Send a message via MSN to Alan
Default

Check valve


Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy_Bob View Post
you may be able to install a higher pressure T&P valve.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe T&P valves and their ratings are designed for water heaters. If you get a higher pressure one, you're also going to get a higher temperature rating on it as well, which in turn would make it a boiler relief valve. Water heater tanks are not designed for pressure higher than what the relief valve is rated for.



This situation is happening all over the place where we live, in some of the more rural neighborhoods where water systems are being developed further, the municipality is putting on check valves where there were originally none, thus causing this hot water expansion issue that we see here.

I'm not saying that it CAN'T be temperature, but if you're telling me that you have this problem, and that you don't have an expansion tank, then i'm going to tell you that you need an expansion tank. UPC (before we started using Oregon Plumbing Specialty Code) required them. Oregon Plumbing Specialty Code requires them.

Put one on.

In regards to putting on a pressure regulator, you might as well check the incoming pressure while you're at it. UPC (before we started using Oregon Plumbing Specialty Code) said 80 PSI was the max you could have in the building. Oregon Plumbing Specialty Code says the same. If you have more than that, you need one. If you have less than that, putting a regulator on and adjusting your pressure down, may or may not affect the problem you're having.
__________________
Journeyman Plumber

Last edited by Alan; 10-27-2011 at 09:00 PM.
Alan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 09:05 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: pa
Posts: 4,511
Rewards Points: 2,336
Default

Check valve


and if you do install a pressure regulator you now have a closed plumbing system which require an expanison tank....here in pa all new water heaters we install have a expanison tank....
ben's plumbing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 09:33 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,497
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Check valve


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan View Post
...I believe T&P valves and their ratings are designed for water heaters...
I seem to recall seeing two different T&P valves sold in the stores here (for water heaters). One a slightly higher pressure than the other. I don't know if they had different temperatures?


I just searched...

Here is one 125 PSI...
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Brass-Tu.../dp/B000BQKBNY

Here is one 150 PSI...
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Brass-Tu.../dp/B000BQM1NW
Billy_Bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 09:47 PM   #13
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,497
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Check valve


"All models are certified at 300 PSI test pressure and 150 PSI working pressure."...
http://www.americanwaterheater.com/p...NRGSS00408.pdf
Billy_Bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 11:13 PM   #14
Doing it myself
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Crescent City, CA
Posts: 3,762
Rewards Points: 2,024
Send a message via AIM to Alan Send a message via MSN to Alan
Default

Check valve


Every one i've ever installed comes with either a 150 PSI T&P in the box, or already installed on the tank. Didn't know they made one with less pressure.

__________________
Journeyman Plumber
Alan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Dual Check Valve Backflow Preventer HairClog Plumbing 13 08-18-2010 08:56 AM
Well check valve problem, well question maxalex Plumbing 6 03-14-2010 02:47 PM
Sump pump check valve oldbear914 Plumbing 5 01-30-2010 03:02 AM
Loud sump check valve BlueBSH Plumbing 1 01-19-2010 05:14 PM
Replacement Check Valve on Condensate Pump Reilley HVAC 17 02-05-2009 06:57 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.