Challenge: Toilet Leaks Through Bolts But Only When Flushed! - Plumbing - DIY Home Improvement | DIYChatroom

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Old 11-17-2006, 10:26 AM   #31
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toilet leak

Come on Racerted, you're an engineer, I'm an engineer too. Obviously if the leak is only when you flush, it has to come from the toilet to bowl gasket connection as Ron says. I would make dam* sure the gasket is the right thickness and size as the original and is fit snugly. As for the wet bolts and pipes, it may as well be a fine spray while flushing. Good luck with it . Cheers.


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Old 05-17-2007, 07:31 AM   #32
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Thanks Ron
I am new to this forum and you have just saved me from hours of frustration. The toilet we bought did NOT have the extra (according to them) rubber washers for under the tank and under the bowl. With these in place (an aftermarket kit - about $7) we now have a leak free toilet.

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Old 05-17-2007, 11:01 AM   #33
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Glad you found your answer on here, welcome to the site.
Fix it right the first time, so you won't have to fix it a 2nd time.

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Old 11-08-2007, 01:29 AM   #34
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I have a similar problem as the original poster only the leak isn't from the tank bolts like he was having. I have noticed this for a month or so but at first it was only a slight amount of water but it only leaked in the center of where the tank meets bowl and the water would generally flow into the bowl from under the tank if that makes sense. Since I had no idea about toilets in general I had no idea what would be causing the problem. First I thought maybe it was the tank bolts but they were dry underneath and the rushing water from the center made me think it was the flush valve. Before I remove the tank and spend the time draining it, I would like to know if I am going to have a hard time finding a replacement repair kit like the original poster did? It took months before someone randomly mentioned, "Oh it was a Gerber, so he bought the wrong sized gasket". If I can avoid an oversight like that I would appreciate it. Also on some of the DIY sites they show the gasket with a flange, but they say with the flange facing up towards the pipe, yet the drawing shows the flange facing down towards the bowl (very contradictory). I am confused if the washer goes on the flush valve before the tank is placed back on the bowl or after it is on. Also where is the other metal washer that I read about besides the rubber spud washer?

Excerpt:Now take the rubber spud washer, which fits between the tank and bowl, and set it squarely into the flush valve opening in the bottom of the tank. The washer goes beveled side out (Fig. 10).

Oddly the figure showed the bevel on a downward angle. Not sure what beveled side out means...
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Old 11-08-2007, 01:35 AM   #35
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Also the other thing that seems contradictory is in the last paragraph of my last post in the excerpt it mentions the rubber spud washer fits between the tank and bowl, yet it says it fits between the opening of the flush valve in the tank itself. The pictures I have seen makes the gasket look like a small donut, so how can it be between the tank and bowl as well as being on the inside of the tank?
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Old 12-03-2007, 12:43 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Ron The Plumber View Post
The flushvalve in the center could have a crack in it, sounds unlikely but could be it, when I install new bolts I put them in this order.

Bolt > Rubber Washer > Through Tank > Rubber Washer > Metal Washer > Nut > Set Tank on Bowl > Metal Washer > Wing Nut.

With this order I know I will have a positive seal on both the inside and bottom of tank.

Never had a problem yet.
Hey Ron, I used this bolt/washer order during my recent replacement of the tank-to-bowl bolts and gasket, but I have a leak somewhere still, I'm guessing from the gasket. I'm concerned that the nuts between the tank and the bowl are preventing the gasket from getting the tight, snug fit that it needs to keep water from leaking out. Before my repair, there were no nuts/washers between the tank and the bowl. (The bowl came with rubber gaskets that fit into the bolt holes.) Could this be the problem? Isn't the tank supposed to sit directly on top of the bowl? Thanks in advance!

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Old 12-03-2007, 10:28 AM   #37
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Fusion1... The flush valve goes threw the tank from the inside, there is a washer that screws onto the flush valve from the bottom(outside) of the tank, then the doughnut washer fits onto the flush valve, beveled side facing away from the tank. In other words the beveled side goes into the hole on the bowl of the toilet, so if you are looking at the toilet all put together the beveled side would be facing down. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:33 PM   #38
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Just experienced the exact same problem as original poster - verbatim. Measured old Gerber spud gasket vs universal replacement(same manufacturer as poster) and came to same conclusion as the poster who already knew Gerber gasket was larger. Found this site while googling for Gerber gasket to buy. Hope this helps spare anyone with Gerber toilet future headache.
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:09 PM   #39
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Gerber toilet leaks between tank & bowl

The Gerber toilet requires an extra-large gasket between the tank and the bowl.

Lavelle Industries (Lavelle.Com or Korky.Com) makes a #460 gasket that will do the job.

Aubuchon Hardware (HardwareStore.Com) carries them, but they must be special ordered (sets of 10) $33 incl S&H.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:27 AM   #40
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I use that white teflon paste so I don't have to torque down the fasteners so tight that I worry about stripping the threads (especially when installing Fluidmasters) or cracking porcelain.

Last edited by Yoyizit; 07-19-2008 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:02 PM   #41
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It has to be the bowl cracked. Think about it when you flush the pressure in the tanks never changes just the flow. My guess would be you tightened the bolts a little to much and cracked the bowl or there was a defect and you opened it up.Just my two cents worth.
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:34 AM   #42
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Gerber toilet leak (spud question)

My problem is the same as the original poster. I purchased a kit and replaced all the parts and still leaked. One poster suggested buying a gerber spud which I did. I am having trouble getting the spud over the plastic nut on the bottom of the tank. Does it need to fit over the nut and if so, is there any trick to getting it to stay in place before re-installing. Or, will the spud form to the pressure when the tank bolts are tightened. Tax and investments I can do, repairing a toilet....WOW! Thanks for your help.
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Old 08-23-2008, 12:11 PM   #43
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Based on your description of the problem, it sounds like their could be a crack in the bowl itself. Since water flows into the bowl at the tank connection and then through various channels in the bowl, depending on the bowl design, a crack in the bolt hole area could cause the kind of leak you have.

It sounds like you have done a good job of eliminating the tank as the culprit so that only leaves the bowl, especially since it only leaks when flushed, which is also the only time water is in the top section of the bowl.

Also, you shouldn't have to spend several hundred bucks on a one- piece toilet to avoid this issue. There are millions of two-piece toilets installed with no problems.

Check out my goofy video for my new toilet repair book.
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:31 AM   #44
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Ron the Plumber said:

Bolt > Rubber Washer > Through Tank > **Rubber Washer**> Metal Washer > Nut > Set Tank on Bowl > Metal Washer > Wing Nut.

Check the instructions again. I've installed quite a few Fluidmaster kits with great success, but it's been a while. The only thing I don't remember is putting a rubber washer directly under the tank (see above where I added the asteriks). When I had a leak coming down the new bolt, usually I could tighten the nut just a tad bit and stop it. A hairline crack by the tank mount bolts or a bit of dirt under the rubber washer (inside) may cause a small leak also.
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Old 08-25-2008, 09:26 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by tribe_fan View Post
My two cents - I'm not a pro but have replaced a few of these in my time.

The leak has to caused by fit of the tank onto bowl.

- Make darn sure the the "gasket" is fitted properly over the large nut.
- Make sure there is nothing "rough" where the gasket fits onto the bowl.
- Remove those bumpers - I've never seen them.
- If your supply line is a "solid" copper tube vrs the flexible supply line - make sure that it is not pulling the tank down or pushing the tank up before starting to tighten the nuts-
- Use brass nut instead of the wing nuts - don't overtighten, but make sure that you tighten them equally - kind of wiggle it into place then alternate. It should be reasonably level when complete. and not tilted front to back.
those bumpers come standard in every gerber toilet. It makes for a nice soft fit of the tank onto the bowl when you tighten 'er down.

We've had a lot of trouble with sterling toilets. For some reason the tank to bowl gasket just doesn't seat very easily. If you're not spot-on when you set that tank down, you'll have a leak when flushing.

It's gotta be the tank to bowl gasket. Did you note whether it was smaller or larger than the original? Different shape? Different material?


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