Cast iron problems please help.

thecityclimber

I Replaced a section of my mainstack about two weeks ago with PVC and two 4" fernco's. The problem is the old pipe was so bad that that their was only about an inch left of pipe before the bell ,to attach the fernco too. The top one started leaking today. I'm wondering if I can unscrew the bell part instead of cutting all the pipe out? I really really Don't want to cut all the pipe out.

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thecityclimber

I just tighten the screws up with a socket wrench instead of a flat head screwdriver and they are much tighter now. Maybe the fernco was just lose?

antinusk

That bell part doesn't unscrew. You have to chisel out the lead and pull out the oakum- rope-fiber like stuff.
Then the bell just slips off.
If you get the more expensive fernco connectors from the plumbing supply, they have a metal sleeve over the rubber and a few more clamps.
They work really well.
Maybe you can get away with adding another hose clamp too

allthumbsdiy

The product is called Fernco Proflex.

It has a full metal sleeve which I believe allows greater distribution of the force when you tighten up the ring

thecityclimber

Thanks for the info guys I'll check out the other model And change it out. I appreciate the replies.
We just bought this house and it's with out a doubt a fixer upper. Thanks again.

Alan

IF you really felt ballsy, you could bust that hub off of the fitting. Underneath it you will find a pipe end that you can attach pvc to.


I've done it lots of times, but you have to be careful and only crack the hub. If you get too rough with it, you could bust the fitting and then you're in real trouble.

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TheEplumber

Did this today
Backed up the back side of the hub with a 2lb. hammer and smacked the front with another hammer. Works slick, but use caution

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allthumbsdiy

is there a special "cracking" tool?

Alan

http://i.pgcdn.com/pi/76/85/95/768595429_260.jpg

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allthumbsdiy

thanks.

I had just read in my latest Family Handyman issue about a "nut splitter" and was wondering if there was a similar tool for this situation (http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Pr...View-All#step9)

BTW, I wonder why they don't make that ribbed handle for a regular hammer.

1950home

With only having an inch to clamp on to you need to remove the bell.

I found the best way to separate cast iron joints is to drill out as much of the lead and rope. I'm thinking it was 3/8” bit and be ready to snap one or 2 when your at it. The rest you will need to chisel out.

From the pic I would.
I have also used a 4” angle grinder to remove a section of the hub. Then you should be able to use a large hammer to spin / knock it off the Y. If you can get it to spin then cut another chunk out of the hub.

notmrjohn

"cracking" tool Yeah, don't know how well it would work on that short bell or what it would do to fitting underneath. you can rent one if the experts here trust you with it.

ribbed handle for a regular hammer. don't know what a 'regular' hammer is , one mans regular hammer is anothers framing hammer, or masons hammer or welders no spark brass, or..... well, all kinds of hammers have all kinds of handles. I don't think I'd want that ribbed handle on claw hammer myself, another man might, because one man's... we already been there.

Big box has Fernco Proflex as does local hardware. Don't need to go to your fancy high falutin plumbing supply may have to go there to get fancy rib handled irregular hammer.

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jaydevries

wow i would like o see someone use that style of snapper in the air i would try one of these for that
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Soil-Pip...2/EN/index.htm

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Javiles

Get in there with a grinder like a makita with a steel cutting wheel cut the hub as far apart as possible remove the cut section remove the oakum and lead and there is the base of the tee, now that may have a small lock lip on it as well. but easier to work with.

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allthumbsdiy

you "crack" me up notmrjohn

btw, isn't that a pipe cutter, not a "nut cracker"? (pun intended)