Please have a look at the uploaded picture. According to my tape measure and the number two stamped on the side, it looks like this is a 2 inch cast iron hub sitting inside of a 6 inch cast iron pipe buried in the cement. The 2 inch pipe is loose and I would like to change it to PVC.
I scraped some of the paint and used a file to test the material used to seal the hub and I really don't know what it is. I'm assuming lead.
I won't know for sure what I am up against until I have it apart. However, my plan is to replace with a 2 inch PVC pipe and a reducing rubber boot / coupling.
The house is 100 years old.
- What would have been the standard to join this hub? If lead, grinder to remove?
- Does PVC and rubber boot / coupling sound reasonable or what would be the good alternative?
They used lead from what I've seen, I wouldn't use a grinder on lead, the lead will coat and ruin the stone real fast. I replaced my iron with PVC since I had to dig down and install a trap/drain and a new cleanout in the basement floor where there never was one- it had just a wye to the floor with a clay disk laid over the opening and that was the drain and cleanout.
I just took a sledge to the hubs and cracked it out real easy, but I assume you want or need to save that piece embedded into the concrete, in which case whacking it with the sledge is going to crack that too.
This looks to me like a terra-cota pipe coming up through the floor, a cast iron T stuck into the TC bell and mortared with sand mix. There is no way you are going to pile up lead like that.
This is really a cobbled connection, and probably not done by a plumber. You will need a diamond blade to cut the TC in a right angle grinder. Fernco makes a lot of different fittings. They may have a combination reducing Y you can use here.
From what I can see that is not a caulked joint (Oakum and Lead) Again it is a Rube Goldberg connection.
IMO- the best way to clean up that mess is to use a pair of ratchet cutters- snap the large pipe below it's hub and transition to plastic and connect the two- 2'" lines using shielded transition couplings.
The cutters are available at a rental yard and will allow you to cut the back of the pipe.
If the riser is clay- a fernco is the easiest way to make the transition, but I avoid them when ever possible. They are not approved inside a structure in my area.
My jurisdiction does not allow them inside a building-above or below grade. By code they are only allowed outside- but you'll find them inside quite often
Fernco is a manufacture of many things to put pipe together the only one that may not be used above ground is the all rubber sucker with radiator clamps.
Thanks Ghost. Good Points on the potential for clogs, thats why I chamfer the inside of both pipes, cut square, and make sure I get full insertion. Ill use the shielded mission couplings from now on.
Now did that pipe coming up through the floor turn out to be Terra-Cotta? And did the pile on top turn out to be crowned mortar?
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