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nowwhatnapster 03-27-2013 11:33 AM

Capping bathroom sink shut off valves.
I am doing a full bathroom remodel in my new home. I am at the point where I need to remove the sink so I can take old tile and backer down. It is a 1954 american standard wall mount sink with two legs. Appears completely original, even the trapway has "standard" printed on it. That means that the shut off valves are also likely original. I tried turning them but they felt solid as a rock. I heard people had luck with a can of PB Blaster so I tried that and after about 6 sprays of the stuff both valves turned. I was able to turn them all the way however the water is only 99% shut off. I get about 1 drip a second from the hot and 2 drips from the cold. My goal was to simply turn off the valves, cap them, and remove the sink. I will higher a plumber to replace the valves when I have the walls down.

So my question is. Can I disconnect the sink supply lines from the valves and replace them with a cap of some sort while they are still dripping? Like a brass threaded cap with some teflon tape on the threads? Any idea what size/thread cap I need or how I measure to find out?

I'd rather not have to run back to the store after I have removed the supply lines because I didn't have the right materials.

As for additional shut off valves further down the line, there is 1 cold shut offs and 3 hot shut offs before 2 main supply shut offs. Most of which are fairly old. Should I verify my main shut off works before even attempting any of this?

jmon 03-27-2013 11:51 AM

Are all those shut off's gate valves or ball valves? Could u throw up a couple of pics when u get a chance of those shut off's? Old gate valves never seem to work properly when u need them to.

jmon 03-27-2013 12:01 PM

u say there are other isolation valves further down the line. That's good, trace your hot and cold lines till u come to the isolation valves and try turning those off and see if that stops the drip. Not the main valve coming coming into house, just the isolation valves to where u are doing the work. If it's still dripping after you turn those off, will go from there.

djlandkpl 03-27-2013 12:11 PM

If the sink connections were threaded onto the valves, you can put a brass cap on it for the time being. I believe it's a 3/8 inch cap. Take the hose with you to the store.

jmon 03-27-2013 12:18 PM

Quick fix, depending on what size u have, u could try using one 3/8 x3/8 or 1/2 x 1/2 inch flexible supply hose, tighten one end to the hot, the other end to the cold. That should stop drip temporarily. U need one with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch on each end to screw onto supply valve. Assuming it's a screw type. Should be able to pick one up at lowes, hd or plumbing supply store.

link here

Big N8 03-27-2013 12:20 PM

If they are still dripping after you shut them off it may be time to replace them. shut off the water remove them and put a temp sharkbite cap on. This can get you through construction without worry of leaking or damaging a new valve. Then when you go to install your new vanity/ valve you can just shut off the water and remove the sharkbite fitting (they are 100% reusable so don't toss them out) and install a new valve and your supply line to the fixture.

TheEplumber 03-27-2013 12:38 PM

199 Attachment(s)
You can buy angle stop caps to use as a temporary fix- either 3/8" or 1/2"
Once your plumber gets there have him verify all the valves are in good working condition

Ghostmaker 03-27-2013 07:55 PM

Are we dealing with threaded pipe? If so turn off house water get 2 brass nipples and caps usually 3/8 inch nipples and drain water out then unscrew pipe dope the new and screw it in...

nowwhatnapster 03-31-2013 09:52 PM

Thank you for all the replies. I wasn't able to take photos until now. So here they are, I'll walk through the valves in order.

First up, the sink shut off valves that I want to cap so I can remove the sink and continue demo of bath. With the assistance of PB Blaster I was able to close these valves 99% of the way.
Next in line are below the tub. They control the whole bathroom and laundy/2nd bath in the basement. I attempted to close these today. The corroded one (hot) I barely touched and noticed the glisten of water start to come out around the stem. The (cold) was turning well until it too started leaking at the stem. I was afraid turning the valves more would create a big leak so I stopped.
Next in line for (hot) are before and after the hot water heater. I did not try these yet.
Next in line for (hot) and (cold) is right before the water meter and right after (main shut off). I have not tried either of these yet.

jmon 04-01-2013 10:43 AM

Yea, I wouldn't touch those other gate valves until u can get a plumber out there to replace them with ball valves. There probably not going to work either. Nice pictures by the way.

So your main concern right now is u want to cap those sink supply lines (first 2 pictures) to stop the dripping so u can finish your demo., and then plumber will replace bad valves at a latter time. As suggested above, they sell threaded 3/8 and 1/2 caps. Be careful, they look rusted out really bad and looks like someone put heat on them at one time.

Stay tuned, let's see what the pro's say.

jagans 04-01-2013 12:17 PM

Turn off the water main. Remove or simply cut off sink supplies. Put a pipe wrench on the stub outs and remove valves and dispose of them. remove Escutcheons, and cap pipes May be 3/8 May be 1/2 inch. Do your wall work.
Replace supply valves under sink with new bath remodel.

That tile is probably set in mud, done the right way.

Most of the valves you have shown are globe valves, not gate valves, and have rubber washers. You can remove the secondary valves if you have supplies below the sink. If you want to retain them, replace with ball valves.

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