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Can a newbie move over a washing machine?

9K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Ron The Plumber 
#1 ·
I have never done plumbing before. But I am a quick learner.

I would like to move a washing machine over approx. 4 feet.
Which would include moving the copper piping and also move over a laundry tub over 4 feet.

Is it something that I would be able to handle, or should I just forget it.

I am a fairly new DIYer.
I am presently framing my basement, and I have been able to add extra electrical outlets.

How is that for some DIYer experience?
Would I be able to handle this plumbing job?


Thanks for any help.
 
#2 ·
I have never done plumbing before. But I am a quick learner.

I would like to move a washing machine over approx. 4 feet.
Which would include moving the copper piping and also move over a laundry tub over 4 feet.

Is it something that I would be able to handle, or should I just forget it.

I am a fairly new DIYer.
I am presently framing my basement, and I have been able to add extra electrical outlets.

How is that for some DIYer experience?
Would I be able to handle this plumbing job?


Thanks for any help.
Y.M.....
...You would be playing with 'fire'....

I say this because, if your 'lines' are not 'done right' Valve's not connected right, connections not attached right, drain lines not pitched right,....etc, etc, etc...You are in for a world of damage.
That is the whole reaon for 'strict licensing' and oversight of this particular work...(unlike some other aspects of the construction and building industry)

The best way to 'learn'' anything .... or even to attempt 'any kind' of plumbing is under a 'watchful' and experienced eye....
...not just 'read about' on the internet or from a book....

I do not mean to offend you, but, rather commend you for your spirit....

This is just my professional opinion. I do not 'mess' with electrical or plumbing in any project, since I am not licensed in those 2 areas.
We do have a 'foreman' with 3 years of experience as a plumber's assistant...and he is still very cautious about what he undertakes or 'touches'.

CAUTION: If something is attached/connected/wired/plumbed wrong...and something were to happen, upon inpection and discovery of improper work..... your home Owner's policy would not cover any of the damages, caused by it.....
 
#3 · (Edited)
CAUTION: If something is attached/connected/wired/plumbed wrong...and something were to happen, upon inpection and discovery of improper work..... your home Owner's policy would not cover any of the damages, caused by it.....
I don't know why everyone says that....Homeowners policies DO, in fact, cover....stupidity (for lack of a better term...I'm not calling anyone stupid) if done by the owner, because in most states you can do almost any work on YOUR OWN home without a license and be doing said work 100% legally.

EDIT: As for the OP's question...why not just get longer hoses? Or is this not a viable option. Even if not, moving a couple feed lines and a drain can be done if you're careful. It's either going to leak or it's not...you'll know as soon as you turn on the water.
 
#4 ·
While I agree that homeowners can do their own work, there is still a requirement for Permits and inspections on certain types of work. Mainly depends on if the work is considered a major change. This is why I usually suggest calling their Local Code office to see what jobs need a permit.
 
#5 ·
I'm building my own home, and I asked the ? about the coverage, in new construction, as long as I meet the inspection mile-stones, it's good. After that, it makes no difference. If your HO insurance is that picky, you'll be lucky to get settlement on any claim...time to shop.

With regards to the OP question, you can move the service and save yourself a boat load of money. You say copper, is that water supply or drain? If you need the flexibility, you might consider switching to PEX for the relocation. Plumbing, just read up on how to work with PVC, watch the slope (1/4" per foof) trapped and vented properly you'll be fine.

Pictures would be helpful, I'm sure there'd be lots of suggestions to help out.

Rip
 
#8 ·
My water piping is copper.

The drain under the laundry tub is plastic, 2 inches in diameter.
It goes into a larger pipe approx. 4 inches in diameter.

I am trying to weigh the pros and cons of moving it, as the only reason for moving would be to save a window for the living area of the basement.

There are presently 3 windows and then I would end up with only 2 as the laundry tub is right below the window and the washing machine right beside it.

I am leaning right now towards leaving well enough alone, if it would be too difficult doing, as the window is a north facing and not a significant amount of light.
 
#9 ·
AtlanticWBConst., this is a point that always needs to be checked before doing the work. It is always best to check LOCAL CODES. Many homeowners want the best of both worlds. Save money by not getting a permit and having improvements show on their taxes, and then claim the improvements when selling the home. The use of Home Inspectors is increasing and most will ask if remodels (especially electrical and plumbing) have been inspected.
 
#10 · (Edited)
As Yummy Mummy already start the work...

She probably didn't request permit because work is not supposed to start before permit.... anyhow... doesn't mean she cannot apply permit now.... but most people doing basement renovation do not apply permit... due to various reasons...

anyhow... consider this is a no permit situation... I think Yummy Mummy's question challenge is really moving the drain pipe for the wash machine.... here is my input:

moving that drain pipe may have a challenge because you need to fullfill certain distance requirement in order to drain properly.... not to mention whether this is against code or not... you want to make sure water will not overflow... you need to make sure the vented pipe and the drain connection at certain distance limit... not too far away... I read that requirement from a plumbing book in the library...and yummy mummy can definitely do the same... the book outline a few options to for wash machine drainage... it is rather hard to outline all details in a thread here...

for copper supply pipe, there should be no problem and can almost go any where in the house, not to mention only moving four feet...



If I were you... I will definitely not to give up the "move" option too soon, it may be easier than you thought... and you end up has a much better end product... Also... even you hire a professional to do the job... make sure you read the book as well.. because there far too many street professional do plumbing not following the codes which is not just against the law... but the worst it could creating overflowing problem when you turn on the wash machine....

At the end, if you want a quick and accurate answer, post a detail drawing about your drainage pipes/vent here, "Ron the plumber" could give you a more than accurate answer...
 
#11 ·
Kuiporng

Thanks for everyones input, but I have decided to leave well enough alone with this one.

Losing one window is not such a big deal and it would alleviate a lot of headaches.

So, thanks everyone for all your input.
I thought it might have been easier than what I am hearing.
I would definitely not want to do anything that would cause me headaches down the road.
 
#13 ·
yummy,
You shouldn't give up so easily. You must have had a want / need to do this. It isn't that big of a deal if you feel comfortable trying things. We can just about walk you through this sort of thing. It's not like your building a new full bathroom. Anything is possible and there is allot of help here.
 
#15 ·
MinConst.

Thanks for the encouragement.

It really is not necessary to move them, just that I did not want to lose the window and the light, given that it is a basement and I am trying to keep as much light as possible.

Ron, what does it mean " 2" trap to vent 5 feet?

What does vent mean?
(I'm really a newbie)

Also, if I were to just put in longer flexible hoses, the hot and cold water taps are right above the washing machines and they would be right in the middle of the wall.


The washing machine drains right into the laundry tub, with a plastic hose coming from washing machine.
 
#16 ·
The vent for a 2" trap can be up to 5 feet away from the trap and be legal. The drain that's there now (hopefully) has a vent tied to it somewhere...what he means is that with any luck it's within ONE foot of the current location, so moving the drain would be as simple as...cutting the existing pipe somewhere then: original---coupler---4 feet of pipe---coupler---original. As long as you're draining 1/4" per foot of run, you're good. You need to find out where the existing vent is first.
 
#17 ·
yummy,
What Ron means is that if you have a 2" drain trap it must be vented within 5' of the trap. A vent is a way of getting air into the drain line so it drains properly. They can be a pipe running through the roof or an air admittance valve. These can be place in the basement and only allow air to come into the pipe and will close if water hits it.
 
#18 ·
Correct, the 2" trap and 2" drain from trap can run up to 5' before it needs to connect to it's vent.

You say laundry tub, most laundry tubs will have a 1-1/2" trap and arm, are you sure what you see is 2"?

If it is 1-1/2" then distance to vent will be shorter, 3'6" according to UPC Code.

Post a picture.
 
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