Greetings DIYers.
I've recently doven into my bathroom projects with much success, a lot due to help on this forum and again I'm asking for help.
I'm trying to install a 60x30 Acrylic/Fiberglass bathtub in a 2nd level bathroom.
I have a few questions regarding, a) what are the proper in order steps of installing the tub, and b), how do I properly level the tub?
I've taken out the old banged up and ugly iron tub, the new tub is a soaker so a new overflow drain shoe assembly was needed, I picked up a PVC one.
Am I right to assume cutting a hole in the ceiling from the below kitchen would be the quickest way to glue this in right vs dry fit, lifting dropping etc ?
Do I attached it to the tub and then set it in?
Do I need to measure on the back wall and install a 2x4 support like the old tub had? (It's hard to measure as there isn't a flat resting edge for this..)
Right now I have the tub resting in place (which was a battle on its own even with my 2 roommates) and I drew lines on the wall where it was leveled.
I have no access panel to see underneath to see if the feet are resting on anything.
What I am not understanding and what it doesn't say in the instructions is how to properly level the bathtub and ensure its supported properly. The instructions say to put shims under the feet of the tub, which are merely small blocks of 2x4 fiberglassed into the bottom of the base. It appeared as though apron would sit lower than these feet meaning the weight is rested on the apron.
I've read that putting down Mortor or quick dry joint compound is a better way to support the tub, do I pour this all in a pile in the middle and then squish the tub down on it until its level?
I'm confident in my ability, just lacking education in the proper procedure and the below quoted instructions help very little.
Thanks much for all you guys help and patience for the long read and many questions.
Here's an excerpt from the instructions:
(Hytec Acrylic Gemstar Model AC3060 Skirted Bath Unit)
TUBS WITH EXTENDED FLANGES
a. Prepare the framing pocket to suit the appropriate length of tub, 1/8” longer than the tub.
b. Check the location of the drain cut-out in the floor, and cut if not done previously.
c. Measure from the bottom of the apron to the top of the flange at the front of the tub. Scribe a line at this height on the studs or drywall at both ends and along the back wall of the framing pocket. This line will assist in levelling the tub.
d. Attach the waste and overflow fitting, and carefully slide tub into position. Check for level at both ends and along the back wall, adjusting as necessary by shimming under the wooden support strip under the tub, or adjusting screw-in feet if that option is ordered.
e. Once satisfied with location, mark and drill clearance holes in the nailing flange for mounting screws, lining up with the centre of all wall studs. (Fig 1 & 2) NOTE: Failure to drill clearance holes may result in stress cracks in the acrylic finish.
f. Attach the unit with screws at each stud, making sure that the screws are long enough to penetrate into the studs if installing over previously installed drywall.
I've recently doven into my bathroom projects with much success, a lot due to help on this forum and again I'm asking for help.
I'm trying to install a 60x30 Acrylic/Fiberglass bathtub in a 2nd level bathroom.
I have a few questions regarding, a) what are the proper in order steps of installing the tub, and b), how do I properly level the tub?
I've taken out the old banged up and ugly iron tub, the new tub is a soaker so a new overflow drain shoe assembly was needed, I picked up a PVC one.
Am I right to assume cutting a hole in the ceiling from the below kitchen would be the quickest way to glue this in right vs dry fit, lifting dropping etc ?
Do I attached it to the tub and then set it in?
Do I need to measure on the back wall and install a 2x4 support like the old tub had? (It's hard to measure as there isn't a flat resting edge for this..)
Right now I have the tub resting in place (which was a battle on its own even with my 2 roommates) and I drew lines on the wall where it was leveled.
I have no access panel to see underneath to see if the feet are resting on anything.
What I am not understanding and what it doesn't say in the instructions is how to properly level the bathtub and ensure its supported properly. The instructions say to put shims under the feet of the tub, which are merely small blocks of 2x4 fiberglassed into the bottom of the base. It appeared as though apron would sit lower than these feet meaning the weight is rested on the apron.
I've read that putting down Mortor or quick dry joint compound is a better way to support the tub, do I pour this all in a pile in the middle and then squish the tub down on it until its level?
I'm confident in my ability, just lacking education in the proper procedure and the below quoted instructions help very little.
Thanks much for all you guys help and patience for the long read and many questions.
Here's an excerpt from the instructions:
(Hytec Acrylic Gemstar Model AC3060 Skirted Bath Unit)
TUBS WITH EXTENDED FLANGES
a. Prepare the framing pocket to suit the appropriate length of tub, 1/8” longer than the tub.
b. Check the location of the drain cut-out in the floor, and cut if not done previously.
c. Measure from the bottom of the apron to the top of the flange at the front of the tub. Scribe a line at this height on the studs or drywall at both ends and along the back wall of the framing pocket. This line will assist in levelling the tub.
d. Attach the waste and overflow fitting, and carefully slide tub into position. Check for level at both ends and along the back wall, adjusting as necessary by shimming under the wooden support strip under the tub, or adjusting screw-in feet if that option is ordered.
e. Once satisfied with location, mark and drill clearance holes in the nailing flange for mounting screws, lining up with the centre of all wall studs. (Fig 1 & 2) NOTE: Failure to drill clearance holes may result in stress cracks in the acrylic finish.
f. Attach the unit with screws at each stud, making sure that the screws are long enough to penetrate into the studs if installing over previously installed drywall.