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Old 04-23-2013, 05:00 PM   #1
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Broken Flange?


I recently discovered that whomever installed the toilet in my new home, which was built in 2007 and is now out of warranty, broke the toilet flange by wrenching it down too much.

At first I was going to use a flange repair kit, but none of the kits I've been able to find at my local big box stores match up to the holes in my Charlotte 4x3" flange. Then, I became a little concerned about how close the break is to the drain and thought maybe I should just replace the whole flange.

The only problem with that idea is the plumber who installed the flange used purple primer, which I think pretty much welds the two pieces of PVC together making it nearly impossible to separate. Is it time to call in the big boys or is there a way for me to fix this myself?

Thanks!
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Last edited by kcrossley2; 04-23-2013 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:56 PM   #2
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Broken Flange?


It could an easy replacement if you have access from below. Review these threads for other options-

PVC Toilet flange replacement options

Which toilet flange repair ring to use?

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Old 04-23-2013, 06:34 PM   #3
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Broken Flange?


Primer just cleans the joint, the glue is what welds it together.
Cut out that flange below the floor and replace with a new stainless steel one.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...nge&FORM=IGRE#
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:26 PM   #4
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Broken Flange?


The flange still looks usable to me. The toilet bolts will still hold in the slots. The only problem I see is the wax ring seal has no support at the one missing edge. The drain will still work you just have to build out the missing area somehow to support the wax seal. You can't see the flange with the toilet in place and it doesn't support the toilet the floor does. I would use a new wax ring seal with the rubber/plastic center section built into it. There is a repair putty that comes in a powder form that you can mold and form into the space left missing by the broken plastic. When it dries you can sand it and even drill holes in it to screw it down to the subfloor. I think its called Durham's water putty. It's water proof and hard as rock but you can cut it and treat it like wood. If you have the tools I would cut and trim a piece of wood to fit and glue and screw it down. Just shape it to the curve of the area that is missing.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:52 PM   #5
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Broken Flange?


Toothless advice is flat out wrong and will not work.
Water Puddy is great but useless to fix this problum and would never hold the force of a closit bolt.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:36 PM   #6
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Broken Flange?


I am wondering how they broke that. That is not where it would be tightened. I doubt that the flange would seal, it must be replaced.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:39 PM   #7
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Broken Flange?


I can access the floor from within the crawlspace of the home, though I hate going into it. So is the consensus that I cut out the flange rom below and replace it with a new one?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:40 PM   #8
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I am wondering how they broke that. That is not where it would be tightened. I doubt that the flange would seal, it must be replaced.
I'm guessing the small slots were used to hold the toilet- not the long ones.
OP mentioned the bolts were over tightened
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:42 PM   #9
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Broken Flange?


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I'm guessing the small slots were used to hold the toilet- not the long ones.
OP mentioned the bolts were over tightened
Yes, your are correct. The small slot were used and overtightened.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:44 PM   #10
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Broken Flange?


Okay, if I have to do this I want to make sure I do it right. Shouldn't the flange sit directly on top of the wooden subfloor, instead of being elevated with spacers?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:50 PM   #11
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Okay, if I have to do this I want to make sure I do it right. Shouldn't the flange sit directly on top of the wooden subfloor, instead of being elevated with spacers?
Either way is fine
My code states that the flange is to be above the finished floor. I assume your plumber was following this rule as well.
So, the flange needs to be set for rough in inspection, but the tile is not installed at that point. The work around is to shim the flange to proper height and lay tile to it.
There is an on going discussion here as too how high to set the flange. My view is if you're at least flush with the floor -you're good.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:50 PM   #12
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Broken Flange?


Yes, I've never even seen a flange with those stand offs like that.
May just need to add some spacers or at least a double wax ring.
Hard to say from that close up picture, but it may be someone just installed the flange wrong.
The flange needed to be installed so the closit bolts set in the middle of those slots.
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Last edited by joecaption; 04-23-2013 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:57 PM   #13
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Broken Flange?


Upon closer inspection it looks like the flange feeds directly into a 45 degree elbow, then a small section of pipe, then another 45 degree elbow and then on to the main. So how should I handle the replacement? Should I attach the flange first then go backwards from there?
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:10 AM   #14
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Broken Flange?


Cut back as far as you need to and then fit everything back together. I had to cut my flange out due to a new tile floor install. I cut back into the 3" and then fit all back together.

In the old photo, fitting #1 is a long sweep street 90 going into the flange, #3 is the vent and #2 was just for refernece in something else I did.

Obviously the bottom left photo has not been glued yet.
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Last edited by hammerlane; 04-24-2013 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:29 AM   #15
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Broken Flange?


which way you going to do the flange??
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