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Old 06-13-2014, 10:10 PM   #1
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


This is a Grohe shower fixture, I had to replace the Check Valve & was able to do it easily for the cold water side. However the Hot water side the Hex nut is completely stripped. I tried to use an extractor & that broke inside. Any idea on How I could remove. I have no problems damaging the old check valve.
Will adding some solder around the hex nut help out to give some grip to loosen it? Any body tried this idea?

The part number on Grohe is 47 477






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Old 06-13-2014, 11:09 PM   #2
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


Go to Ace or Sears and get the Craftsman Extractor kit in the tool aisle. This is what happens when people do not lube the threads with Plumber's grease or 3:1 oil on the threads.

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Old 06-13-2014, 11:14 PM   #3
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Go to Ace or Sears and get the Craftsman Extractor kit in the tool aisle. This is what happens when people do not lube the threads with Plumber's grease or 3:1 oil on the threads.
I got an extractor kit, darn thing broke inside. There's no more thread in there either.
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:16 PM   #4
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


Once a screw extractor is broke off in anything, the chore is hopeless, or so expensive that you will wish that you just replaced the whole assembly.

And I speak from experience, I once spent $350, to have something repaired after the extractor broke in it, when I could have bought new for $35.00.

So my advise is to replace the entire shower assembly. Call it good riddance and be happy.

ED
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:25 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by de-nagorg View Post
Once a screw extractor is broke off in anything, the chore is hopeless, or so expensive that you will wish that you just replaced the whole assembly.

And I speak from experience, I once spent $350, to have something repaired after the extractor broke in it, when I could have bought new for $35.00.

So my advise is to replace the entire shower assembly. Call it good riddance and be happy.

ED
NOOOOO....that's the dreaded news. This would mean I have to remove the tile around that section & seems like a HUGE deal.

Will Soldering Lead into that hole along with a Hex give some grip?
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Old 06-14-2014, 05:28 AM   #6
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


Not going to work, solders to soft.
Time for a new valve.
Most often there removed from the back side not the tiled side.
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Old 06-14-2014, 05:45 AM   #7
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


This probably won't work but it beats changing the valve. Find a bolt about the size of the stripped hole and super glue it in. Spray penetrating lube around the threads for the valve a few times. Use a wrench on the bolt.
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Old 06-14-2014, 06:41 AM   #8
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What holds that valve into the valve body? Could you snap a picture from the back side?

Does it screw in ?
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Old 06-14-2014, 06:58 AM   #9
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post the part number or something that will allow me to see the PDF for that valve
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
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post the part number or something that will allow me to see the PDF for that valve
he posted this The part number on Grohe is 47 477
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:10 AM   #11
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


Thanks--that thing screws in---forget the bad hex hole---

Get an adjustable spanner wrench--drill two holes in the face of the stuck part--the correct size for the spanner pins---stick the spanner on the stuck valve and unscrew it---
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:05 AM   #12
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


What Mike sez. I was thinking along the same lines. I've heard them called pin wrenches or a face spanner. One like this comes to mind:

The idea is you drill two holes into the face of it and use the pins on that kind of wrench to twist it out.

Next question, what's on the wall behind that mixer valve? Because it's often a LOT less trouble to come in through the back instead of busting up tile...
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:27 AM   #13
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


Last resort may be to drill and/or grind it out and replace with new valve. Don't touch the threads. The crack is a weak spot.
Learned from auto repairs, but sometimes tightening just a little to break the fused threads then repeating screw/unscrew helps.
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Old 06-14-2014, 03:48 PM   #14
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


Much the same idea as the pin wrench when you don't have a pin wrench. Drill a couple holes opposite each other into the cartridge as far apart as you can without hitting the threads (3/8 inch would be nice if you have the room. Slide a couple of 3/8 bolts into the holes leaving a couple of inches of bolt exposed, then stick a pipe between the bolts and twist. A little heat from a torch may help, but careful not to heat too much.
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Old 06-14-2014, 05:14 PM   #15
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Brass Hex nut stripped & needs replacement


Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
What Mike sez. I was thinking along the same lines. I've heard them called pin wrenches or a face spanner. One like this comes to mind:

The idea is you drill two holes into the face of it and use the pins on that kind of wrench to twist it out.

Next question, what's on the wall behind that mixer valve? Because it's often a LOT less trouble to come in through the back instead of busting up tile...
Those spanners can be purchased at any bike shop.

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