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Old 03-18-2013, 01:51 PM   #31
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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying


Here's a couple pics of the old leaking water heater.

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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying-forumrunner_20130318_142040.jpg

This is the old water pressure reducer valve that was found to be faulty. (worked when water was on but not when it was off)

Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying-forumrunner_20130318_142249.jpg

On a side note, the pipes that appear to be black in the pic are actually just very dirty copper pipes.

Here's the water pressure gauge I installed. It's right after our water filter & pressure reducer.

Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying-forumrunner_20130318_142447.jpg

Here's the new water pressure reducer valve. Looks like the old one was intended to handle more pressure, but it was also $75 at Lowes. The one in this pic can output 25-75psi and was only $25. If you noticed on the previous pic of the gauge, I have it set at about 70psi.

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Here's the new tank installed.

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And a side shot. (50gal electric tank & 5gal exp tank)

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Top shot of heater connections.

Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying-forumrunner_20130318_143419.jpg

Junction box where the 10-3 wire enters into conduit. It wasn't until I had the wire ran that I found out I only needed 10-2 for a water heater. The conduit came in a kit w/ the fittings and 3pcs of 10awg wire stranded. Is it a problem that I have 10awg solid from the panel to the junction box and then 10awg stranded from the junction box, through the conduit to the heater itself? (about 2.5ft)

Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying-forumrunner_20130318_143505.jpg

Here's a shot of the connection at the panel. I capped the white wire in the junction box near the water heater. What should I do w/ the white wire at the panel...just connect it to the bus bar? Or is it ok to cap it in the panel?

Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying-forumrunner_20130318_144156.jpg

And the last pic w/ our Rheem 95perc that we got last year.

Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying-forumrunner_20130318_144242.jpg

This was a big project for me. I started Friday evening and finished Sunday evening. 4 trips to lowes, many things checked online, and the wife and kids went to stay at a hotel Sat night b/c I wasn't done yet and they all wanted to take a shower lol. Many hiccups along the way, such as finding out the pressure reducer valve was bad. Also I drilled holes in the joists to run the 10awg through and it was a royal pain pulling it through. Problem was I drilled a few holes perpendicular to the joists, then I drilled holes on an angle towards the panel. Well it was the first time working with 10awg wire - and I'm sure me buying 10-3 instead of 10-2 didn't help the cause either. Bottom line is I learned lots and got the job done, which is why I wanted to do it myself in the first place. Oh and did I mention that the height from the basement floor to the joists is only 5'4"? I'm 5'10" and felt like the hunchback of Notre Dame for a couple days...

Thank to you all for your help. If you see anything in my pics that should be changed please let me know.

John


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Old 03-18-2013, 05:27 PM   #32
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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying


Not to sure about your electrical wiring, may have a couple minor issues their. Conduit looks good from hwh to junction box. Not to sure about junction box to panel w/ that orange cable. Did hwh heater come w/ that cable? Let's see what others say.

Thanks for sharing your experience with the forum. Nice job and pics by the way. Your hard work really paid off, looks great.

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Old 03-18-2013, 10:39 PM   #33
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No, water heater didn't come w/ the cable.

A question while I'm here. I have our PRV set at 70psi but I was just down there and saw the red needle was at 140psi. Does anyone know what can cause the water pressure to double in a closed system? It's not the toilet b/c I was down there watching it when it flushed. Haven't done laundry since I hooked it up. Only other things are faucets & dishwasher. Thoughts?
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:48 PM   #34
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No, water heater didn't come w/ the cable.

A question while I'm here. I have our PRV set at 70psi but I was just down there and saw the red needle was at 140psi. Does anyone know what can cause the water pressure to double in a closed system? It's not the toilet b/c I was down there watching it when it flushed. Haven't done laundry since I hooked it up. Only other things are faucets & dishwasher. Thoughts?
I think you might want to go back and trace your water main piping. I see you have a tee before the PRV. Make sure that all the house is fed through the PRV only.
The only reason for you to spike like you did is a bad TP, bad PRV or piping not protected by the PRV- other possible cause is a eap tank not set to proper pressure
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:05 PM   #35
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other possible cause is a eap tank not set to proper pressure

That was going to be my first suggestion.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:40 PM   #36
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When you say EAP tank are you talking thermal expansion tank? I haven't checked it since hooking it up and turning on the water, but right before that happened I pumped it up to 70psi. I will check it again tomorrow.

Could air in the pipes cause a spike? I was thinking, I changed our water filter and when I took a shower later there was a burst of air that came out the tub faucet. I know they sounds kind of violent when it happens but I don't know if they can cause a pressure spike.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:52 PM   #37
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yea, expansion tank. What about the tee- all the house water go through the prv?
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:12 AM   #38
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Oh yes, sorry, all house water goes through T. The line going up is the hose hookup. I plan to change that but at the time it was one more thing to do with a house full of women waiting for hot water.
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:06 PM   #39
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This morning I put a load of laundry in the washer. It only takes a min for the water to kick on so I stayed to watch the pressure gauge. I set the red dial just ahead of the black one which was at 70psi. Water kicked on and it violently dropped to 50psi and stayed right about there. Water kicked off and it violently jumped back up to 70psi. When it made the jump back it kicked the red dial up between 130-140psi. Anyone else ever have that happen?
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:08 PM   #40
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When it spiked like that did the T&P valve spray water?


I had this happen on a commercial washer once. The water hammer was slamming back against the spring in the T&P valve and causing it to leak a little when the washer's solenoid shut off.


I installed a water hammer arrestor at the end of the hot and cold line near the washing machine and the problem was solved.

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Old 03-19-2013, 09:08 PM   #41
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When it spiked like that did the T&P valve spray water?


I had this happen on a commercial washer once. The water hammer was slamming back against the spring in the T&P valve and causing it to leak a little when the washer's solenoid shut off.


I installed a water hammer arrestor at the end of the hot and cold line near the washing machine and the problem was solved.

Isn't that in the code book somewhere......
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:09 PM   #42
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I don't think I explained it well enough.

The red needle didn't legitimately get up to that range, but when the black needle kicked back to 70psi with so much force it probably went a little bit past - say to 75 or 80psi just for a fraction of a second. But that sharp jump misleadingly shoved the red needle 60psi higher than the pressure actually was. I guess I'm saying there is so little resistance on the red needle that it can get 'kicked' around.

Maybe the easy fix is to just put the red needle @ 100psi, then if it's ever beyond that I'll know that something seriously happened to cause an actual significant increase.

Could I put a T right above the washer shutoff valves to reduce the hammer?

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Old 03-19-2013, 09:35 PM   #43
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HD has a mini arrestor that will screw right on your washer outlet.
Or cut in a tee above and use a different style arrestor
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:51 PM   #44
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Anyone know if dishwashers have the hard kick like washers do?
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:08 PM   #45
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Anyone know if dishwashers have the hard kick like washers do?
Yes they do. Dishwasher, washing machine, ice maker, toilet and some showers are all quick closing valves

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