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Old 03-15-2013, 11:18 PM   #16
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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying


Ok great. Are you able to tell me if tightening the bolt would reduce the pressure?

EDIT: just saw a video and it showed clockwise as increasing flow and counterclockwise as decreasing.


Last edited by fetzer85; 03-15-2013 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:13 AM   #17
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Ok, I turned the pressure reducing valve down...way way down. The bolt is sticking as far out of the valve as it would go and the water pressure at the kitchen sink is lower than I've ever seen in any house I've been in. Even after this the dang release valve still sprays. Is it unheard of for a brand new water heater to come w/ a defective release valve?
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:05 AM   #18
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Stanard Watts TPR is 150psi and 210F. There is no way you have a 150psi of water pressure. Bad valve, Watts used to be a good brand. About $15.00 now days.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:12 AM   #19
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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying


Is that Black Iron pipe and a shark bite on same I see????? Thats your incoming water supply????

What a mess.

PS I think you are going to be sorry when you see your new electric bill. Shoulda stuck with Gas
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:56 AM   #20
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take the old valve back where you bought the water heater and tell them the water heater is defective thye should take the vavle off of a new heater.
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Old 03-16-2013, 09:44 AM   #21
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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying


You can return the valve- but you still need to check the house pressure with a gauge.
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Old 03-16-2013, 09:52 AM   #22
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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying


fetzer85, Glad you got it all figured out now. Yes, ccw reduces, cw increases. Keep an eye on those pressures. If your pressure is still too high, you may need a different prv valve. One that starts at 50psi, you say your current one starts at 75psi. That's kind of on the high side. Normal house pressures are usually around 50-60 psi. Like E recommended get a water pressure gauge, screw it on your bib and check it at different times of the day. You can leave it mounted right on bib for awhile. They usually have a black and red needle. Black one is actual pressure, red one will stay at the highest pressure recorded. Glad everything worked out for you.

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Old 03-16-2013, 01:16 PM   #23
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Check the pressure first plz, ASAP, TYIA.


If pressure reads high ( greater than 80 PSI), open bibb to relieve pressure.... 1 minute or so wide open should show a change. If no change, then regulator is not doing anything. If it changes and slowly creeps back up, the regulator is on the verge of failing completely.

Both scenarios require the regulator to be either rebuilt or replaced.
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:17 PM   #24
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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying


The pressure relief valve usually has a bypass to allow how water expansion to go to the city main. It blocks over time. You need to install a pressure expansion tank sized for your hot water tank on the cold inlet to the tank. You might also want to replace the PR valve but still install the expansion tank anyway.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:20 PM   #25
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If the pressure goes past the pressure valve then the meter would charge him for water usage? Is there a proper direction for those expansion tanks?
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:28 PM   #26
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no, and no. Like ghost said above, just get proper size exp. tank for hwh and install on cold water inlet.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:34 PM   #27
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After re reading the thread and he stated he did not power up the tank it sounds like the temperature pressure relief valve is bad on the tank. Get a new one and install it. Your house water pressure should be below 80 lbs. It is still a good idea to install a hot water expansion tank on the cold to the tank since you do have a pressure reducing valve on your water to the house.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:57 PM   #28
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Brand new water heater TPR valve spraying


I have only EVER had to replace one T&P valve in 6 years, and it was on a commercial hot water booster.


More than likely on a new heater it is not the T&P valve. Impossible? No, but i'd be less surprised if the old one was clogged full of crud and not operating correctly.

Why waste 20 bucks on a part that should be free if it's defective?

I might also add that SINCE THE WATER HEATER HAS NOT BEEN POWERED UP YET, THERMAL EXPANSION IS A NON ISSUE AT THIS TIME. TYIA.

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Old 03-17-2013, 09:01 AM   #29
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A brief update...

The water pressure at the hose bib was 160psi - wow!

The pressure reducer valve was bad. It worked while water was running but as soon as no water was running our entire system jumped up to 160lbs. So the TP valve was actually doing its job. I'll post some more details tonight.
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:58 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fetzer85 View Post
A brief update...

The water pressure at the hose bib was 160psi - wow!

The pressure reducer valve was bad. It worked while water was running but as soon as no water was running our entire system jumped up to 160lbs. So the TP valve was actually doing its job. I'll post some more details tonight.
Thanks for coming back with the solution.

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