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-   -   Bathroom sink. Drain pipe cracked from stopper lever. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/bathroom-sink-drain-pipe-cracked-stopper-lever-162776/)

Mathlete 11-09-2012 09:33 PM

Bathroom sink. Drain pipe cracked from stopper lever.
 
I tried to put this back together, and it sort of stayed, but the "plunger" at the faucet handles would not pivot correctly to open and close the stopper. Do I just replace this plastic tube? I don't know how to reinstall it b/c of that rod that needs to go into the side and hook into the eyehook of the stopper. Do I thread this plastic tube first and then try to stick the rod into the opening and blindly get it to catch the stopper's "eyehook"? Or do I connect it first, and then somehow spin the drain bolt to thread the plastic tube?

http://i50.tinypic.com/a0e1zr.jpg http://i46.tinypic.com/24bq2cg.jpg http://i50.tinypic.com/2eyaosm.jpg http://i49.tinypic.com/2lxkpv.jpg http://i49.tinypic.com/2rm9xy0.jpg

I tried to put this back together, and it sort of stayed, but the "plunger" at the faucet handles would not pivot correctly to open and close the stopper. Do I just replace this plastic tube? I don't know how to reinstall it b/c of that rod that needs to go into the side and hook into the eyehook of the stopper. Do I thread this plastic tube first and then try to stick the rod into the opening and blindly get it to catch the stopper's "eyehook"? Or do I connect it first, and then somehow spin the drain bolt to thread the plastic tube?

digitalplumber 11-09-2012 10:09 PM

Replace tube first then drop plunger in an then inset rod.

Mathlete 11-10-2012 09:30 AM

I crazy glued it back. I will try to install once dry.

joecaption 11-10-2012 10:17 AM

Replace it, do not try to fit it!!! Why would you want to take a chance on it leaking. It's not some high dollar item.
It most liklly crack because that tail pieces is cut to long and it's causing the two pieces to be miss aligned.
With that set up there's also no easy way to get the pieces together so someone may have forced it.

Mathlete 11-10-2012 10:59 AM

The glued piece is fine, but that's the least of my worries. Once I reassemble, the plunger just goes up and down and the stopper doesn't move. I just can not get the pivoting action to work. I think this mechanism needs PERFECT tolerances to move the stopper. Otherwise, the ball just pivots and the stopper barely even moves, b/c there's too much play. I tried to tighten this ball/rod thing while the plunger is in the up/closed position and the plunger is down (to match positioning) but it just doesn't work. I wonder if the height of the screw on tube needs to be PERFECT. I should have counted exactly how many spins I did to remove it. B/c the height of the ball opening is relative to the fixed height of the stoppers "eyehook".

I also noticed the "eyehook" is offset. I have been hooking it by having it aligned to be closer to the opening, so the rod can easily hook into it. Should I have it facing the back side of the tube, AWAY from the opening? That might increase the fulcrum/pivot effect, which is the entire issue here. But, if I do that, I don't think the rod will reach across the entire tube to hook into the eyehook on the other side of the opening. Not sure the rod is long enough. Should this eyehook be aligned to the side of the rod opening, or away from it? In other words, in the photo, should the ball/rod enter from the top or the bottom?

http://i48.tinypic.com/34jbsll.jpg

Mathlete 11-10-2012 12:51 PM

Asdfasd
 
This is taking longer than I anticipated!

oh'mike 11-10-2012 01:00 PM

For goodness sake---go to the store and buy a new pop up assembly and a tub of plumbers putty---

Good pop up--$15.00 putty--$2.00

Mathlete 11-10-2012 01:02 PM

The assembly perfectly repaired & fine, as I said before.
It's the method of assembly that is just not working.

TheEplumber 11-10-2012 01:24 PM

At the lift rod connection point- Do you have the washers in the proper order? If assembled wrong, it can make the rod too short and not push against the pop up.
The hole in the pop up faces toward the lever rod hole or sideways. If sideways the rod should still activate it while allowing the pop up to be removed for cleaning the drain without removing the rod.

Mathlete 11-10-2012 01:46 PM

Solved! Here was one confusion in reassembly.
Alignment of that eyehook I spoke of earlier.
Note the reversal.
http://i46.tinypic.com/a9wllj.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/2qx2m2s.jpg

I used that section that was not rusted to guess at which way it went.
This still didn't solve the problem, so I disconnected the rod on the other side and adjusted the attachment hole to give more leverage/pivot.
I moved it from hole 3 from the bottom to the very bottom! Why this setting needed to be changed on an identical remove and replace, I will never know.
But it now works!
http://i47.tinypic.com/6zlzbc.jpg

Mathlete 11-10-2012 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 1048945)
At the lift rod connection point- Do you have the washers in the proper order? If assembled wrong, it can make the rod too short and not push against the pop up.
The hole in the pop up faces toward the lever rod hole or sideways. If sideways the rod should still activate it while allowing the pop up to be removed for cleaning the drain without removing the rod.

Wow, you're right, it could go sideways! I never thought of that. Mine was definitely not like that b/c the stopper would not get pulled down by the rod, it would only go down by gravity.

Thanks for the help you guys...

TheEplumber 11-10-2012 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mathlete (Post 1048958)
Wow, you're right, it could go sideways! I never thought of that. Mine was definitely not like that b/c the stopper would not get pulled down by the rod, it would only go down by gravity.

Thanks for the help you guys...

I read that in the instructions once. :laughing:


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