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Old 12-20-2013, 10:59 AM   #1
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Bathroom Sink Drain - Correct Fitting for Wall Connection


I'm building my shopping list for my bathroom renovation that starts tomorrow. Since I am removing tile and drywall around the entire bottom 4' of the room, I was going to replace all of the old iron pipe while the walls are open. My sink has always drained pretty slow, so I think it is probably pretty gunked up after 60 years anyway.

The drain enters the wall under the sink and runs horizontally thorugh the wall to the main stack about 5' away behind the toilet. At least I assume that is where it goes, since it does not enter the basement.

I assume I will need a 1 1/2 male IPT to 1 1/2 female PVC adapter to enter the stack. I will put a 90 PVC elbow to exit the wall behind the sink.

What is the proper fitting to put into that 90 elbow exiting the wall?

90 Degree elbow with Fipt?
Thread slip washer adapter?
Something else?

I am probably going to use an Ikea sink base and sink. This requires the trap and all plumbing to be within 3" of the wall so the drawers can close. Right now I just want to have the correct/best fitting to make the in wall connection so it does not have to be touched for another 60 years.

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Old 12-20-2013, 03:17 PM   #2
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Bathroom Sink Drain - Correct Fitting for Wall Connection


Depends on the type of trap you're using.
For now I'd just leave the 90 stubbed out until you set the sink

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Old 12-20-2013, 04:39 PM   #3
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Bathroom Sink Drain - Correct Fitting for Wall Connection


You may end up having to move the old drain if your going to be changing the vanity to one with drawer's that are going to be in the way.
Post some pictures when you get to that point.
Many a time I've had to shorten the drawers to get everything to fit.
There's been many a post on sinks, faucets vanity's bought from Ikea with some odd ball European metric fittings.
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:17 AM   #4
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Bathroom Sink Drain - Correct Fitting for Wall Connection


Got the vanity out and the wall open. Turns out there is a PVC slip fitting into the old iron drain. The drain does a 90 in the wall and makes a 24" run to the main stack -1.5" iron pipe.

The pipe location is OK. I realized that Ikea stuff is not standard, but I like the design and it is only a $300 risk. With the room only 4' wide, I like the metric depth that is a couple inches smaller than usual at 19". It is hard to find something in a 18" standard I like that is not $1000. Their design basically runs the drain horizontally to the back 3" of the sink instead of straight down into the trap, so I will have a 3 x 30" area to play with connections. I am going to stick with a name brand faucet.

I was going to change out the drain line to PVC since the wall is open, but of course run into framing headaches. The wall is built with 2x6, which were notched to allow the pipe to pass. Of course they are notched on the side where I didn't remove drywall. The toilet supply line which I am switching to copper is notched on the open side. There are also four studs in that 24" run, so it looks like I would have to either sister in new studs and notch on the open side, or feed two, possibly three short sections of PVC through the largest stud cavity and couple them.

What would be the proper way to replace this section, or should I just snake it out and leave the 60 year old iron pipe alone?
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:31 AM   #5
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Bathroom Sink Drain - Correct Fitting for Wall Connection


open the drywall on the back side or put in short pieces with couplings.
One thing about galv. pipe is that it rusts away from the inside out, so you don't know if it will last 6 mths. or 6 yrs. before it starts to leak.

When you stub the pipe out, make sure it is off center of your lav drain about 3" so the trap will lay flat against the wall
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:35 AM   #6
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Bathroom Sink Drain - Correct Fitting for Wall Connection


You better check that Ikia sink---I installed one a few months back---it came with its own trap assembly---all parts nonstandard ---and its own P-trap.

not a forgiving set up and no common parts could be used to adapt the foreign parts ----look first before offsetting that drain.

Do not expect 60 years out of that unit---

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