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helpless handyman 07-27-2006 09:45 AM

Bathroom remodeling
 
Hi everyone, and thanks for any suggestions. I have guttered a bathroom in a home that I just purchashed. The old tub and sink drain was lead drain pipes, with notches on the beams and it look like a 5ft snake. I have sister the joist to make them firm. I am thinking of doing the tub and sink drain with no hub. Is this okay? I had to cut the toilet drain out from the cast iron stack since it was all bended up, and would probably create problems in the future, so I am wondering can I go with a lead bend on the toilet drain attached to a no hub coupling to the cast iron stack? Please help me out, going to start this tommorow eve.

Thanks to all of you on this wonderful forum!!!!

Ron The Plumber 07-27-2006 08:20 PM

Way not use ABS or PVC DWV Pipe, use rubber fernco couplings for the transition points.

helpless handyman 07-27-2006 08:48 PM

Bathroom Drain Remodel
 
Okay, so do not use no hub, I should use pvc for the sink and tub drain? Also for the toilet flange, pvc to the cast iron stack? Please help me out, thanks!

Ron The Plumber 07-27-2006 08:52 PM

Yes it's easy to work with and will go in faster.

helpless handyman 07-27-2006 09:04 PM

Bathroom Remodeling
 
Thanks Ron, how hard is it to work with PVC? There is something that goes on the pipe before the glue, is that like a primer? Also I noticed that the beams where the tub goes are 16 on center. The tub I bought is 32inc wide, which means the drain is right on the joist. It looks as I have to cut that beam, and brace it to the other joist with joist hangers. What parts will I need for the toilet drain? The cast iron stack toilet drain has like 1inc sticking out of the stack, is this long enough to do the joint on both pipes?

Ron The Plumber 07-27-2006 09:17 PM

PVC requires primer, purple in color.

You can do a 45 offset on what they call a tip toe waste and overflow assembly, above the floor before you get to the subfloor, this will allow you to get to one side of that joist/beam.

Ths stainless steel clamp on a fernco coupling will fit over that 1" stub without a problem.

helpless handyman 07-27-2006 09:49 PM

Bathroom remodeling
 
Thanks Ron, but here in NY I don't think PVC is allowed for drains, what other choices are there if no hub pipe is no good? Thanks

Ron The Plumber 07-27-2006 09:53 PM

Never said no hub is no good, how about ABS Black Plastic, is it allowed there?

J187 07-28-2006 07:09 AM

You may want to look into the newer amended codes in NY, I think they may have finally realized that PVC is perfectly fine for DWV

http://www.gorr.state.ny.us/code-examples.htm


I'm not positive but I think that's what that article is about - didn't read the whole thing.

helpless handyman 07-28-2006 09:51 AM

Bathroom Remodeling
 
Ron, first of all THANKS for all your help, I have decided to go with PVC, its allowed for drainage. My question, on the bathroom toilet drain, I have about an inch of pipe sticking out of the cast iron stack, whats the best way to connect a toilet drain, and what parts will I need. I beleive the toilet has to be 12 inc away from the finished wall. I had the place guttered out, and all the pipes were cut since they were from the 1940's. Also I have 2 X 8 as the floor joist on the entire house. Can I install a fiberglass whirlpool on this, will it hold the weight? There was a cast iron tub there before, and I beleive that weight more.. Last but not least, you told me to use a tip toe waste & overflow assembly on the tub, I looked at a picture on the website and saw exactly what you mean, but this pipe runs straight down, how do I get it to bypass the joist that is in the middle of the tub drainage? Thanks so much Ron for all your great help. I want to start working on this tommorow. Its going to be a nightmare, but I am going to give it a shot. I have to install sink drain, toilet drain, and tub drain all leading from the stack.

Ron The Plumber 07-28-2006 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by helpless handyman
My question, on the bathroom toilet drain, I have about an inch of pipe sticking out of the cast iron stack, whats the best way to connect a toilet drain, and what parts will I need. I beleive the toilet has to be 12 inc away from the finished wall.

You should beable to use a fernco coupling to make that connection, then 90 el up and then closet flange on top.


Quote:

Originally Posted by helpless handyman
I have 2 X 8 as the floor joist on the entire house. Can I install a fiberglass whirlpool on this, will it hold the weight?

I don't see why not.

Quote:

Originally Posted by helpless handyman
you told me to use a tip toe waste & overflow assembly on the tub, I looked at a picture on the website and saw exactly what you mean, but this pipe runs straight down, how do I get it to bypass the joist that is in the middle of the tub drainage?

Since you make up the pieces of pipe between the parts in the kit, it does not have to go stright down, turn the drain shoe that connects to the bottom of tub towards a point that will allow you to offset the overflow and tie them together to bypass the joist using 45 and 90 elbows, we do this all the time when there are joist located at center line of tub.

If you still don't understand about the offsetting thing, I'll draw you a picture.

helpless handyman 07-28-2006 10:31 AM

Bathroom remodeling
 
Ron, please draw me a picture, Thanks!

helpless handyman 07-28-2006 10:41 AM

Bathroom remodeling
 
Ron, I forgot also how high from the floor should the sink drain be? Thanks!

J187 07-28-2006 01:23 PM

Helpless, the direction you offset in, depends on which direction the joist thats in the way is running. Is it a crossing joist or is running the lenght of the tub? Either way, its the same method of offsetting, just a different direction perhaps. They actually sell offset DWO pipes that are adjustable, damned If I can find them on the net though to show you, but I've got nice one in my trunk right now - not that it helps you any. But like Ron said, its just a matter of using 45 and 90 degree bends. To understand it, picture where the hole in the tub is, right over the joist, right? Now think about where it would need to be to run right next to the joist, free and clear of hitting. Now imagine a straight pipe coming down toward the joist and another going from next to the joist straight down through the floor. Imagine how you would have to connect the two pipes? That should give you an idea of what he means. and the same gets done with the overflow pipe.

Maybe Ron's picture will help you. He definitely knows his stuff.

helpless handyman 07-28-2006 02:51 PM

Bathroom remodeling
 
Okay, I think I got the picture, but Ron I'll wait for the picture. So when I 90 degree elbow the 2 pipes,)over flow and drain pipe) since the joist is running straight along the drain, top to bottom of tub they have to connect to a tee, and then to a trap??? The joist are only 7 1/2 inc in width. Just tring to picture this on my mind, so I can get all the necessary parts, this way I am not running back and fourth. Also hows the procedure on gluing the pvc together? Prime, wait how long and then glue? Also whats the best tool to use to cut the pvc pipe? Also on the toilet drain, since its 4 inc, do I have to get a 10ft 4 inc, or do they sell smaller pieces at the HD. Toilet I believe I will need a toilet flange(what kind pvc?), a 4 inc 90 degree elbow and a smaller peice to reach the 12 inc from finished wall? Thanks for all the help guys, I hope I get this, but will still wait for Rons picture, Thanks Ron!!!!


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