Basement DWV Rough In - Plumbing - DIY Home Improvement | DIYChatroom


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Plumbing

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-13-2013, 10:10 AM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 9
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Hello,

I just finished my plan for my basement bathroom. I was hoping for some feedback if I've done this the way I'm supposed to. I did a lot of research on code and tried to understand why things are supposed to be the way they are. I think I got it right, but I'd appreciate some feedback.

The 4" sewer line runs up to the kitchen sink drain after the new fixtures wye. Behind the kitchen sink drain is the shower vent that connects to the horizontal runs from the W.C. and lav vents at ceiling height. It ties into a dry vent from the kitchen sink and runs all the way to the roof. I had to expand from 1.5" to 2" to meet DFU requirements.

(I do realize that the W.C. is absurdly high. I just had a 2' section of pipe that I didn't cut down yet. I'm not planning on using the toilet 4' off the ground!)

Let me know what you think. I'd appreciate it.

I did have a few questions...

Are the rolled wye's ok? They are rolled to accommodate layout more than because I wanted to vent with them.

Is the 4" to 2" reducer ok where it is? I wasn't sure if that had to be at a certain height.

Is it ok that the shower and W.C. vent have a short 45 section where they are neither vertical or horizontal?
Attached Thumbnails
Basement DWV rough in-img_5213.jpg  
Attached Images
     

Advertisement

pflyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2013, 03:30 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,563
Rewards Points: 1,670
Default

Basement DWV rough in


What state are you located in and which code do they follow?

BY your picture the only legal vent you have is the lav vent and possibly the shower vent. If your under international code the only vent you need is the lavatory vent on that bath.

The toilet vent is not needed and the shower vent is not needed. You do need to add a clean out on your KS stack at the bottom of its stack Use a 3 inch clean out tee and make it accessible for cleaning.

Next question is where are you going to tie in your vent from the lav.

The toilet vent is not legal because you have a horizontal piece below the ground. You are not allowed to do that until you are above the flood level rim of the toilet around 24 inches or so above the floor.

Make sure you air test with 5 pounds pressure for leaks also and get inspected unless you like tearing all that floor out at a later date.

Advertisement

Ghostmaker is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Ghostmaker For This Useful Post:
pflyer (08-13-2013)
Old 08-13-2013, 04:16 PM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 9
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Thanks for your explanation. It's really helpful to tell me what I did wrong rather than just say "It's wrong." I don't like tearing up floors and I am having an inspection done, but obviously need to fix some things.

I'm in Wisconsin and we're under UDC.

I'll add that clean out-tee... I'm assuming I'll reduce 4" to 3" add the tee reduce 3" to 2"? Is there a required height for that?

It makes sense to my why you can't have a horizontal run underground, but I thought I needed a vent for every trap. So to vent properly do you have to do a tee pointing straight up? This is what I was going on...

UPC 905.2 Where vents connect to a horizontal drainage pipe, each vent pipe shall have its invert taken off above the drainage centerline of such pipe downstream of the trap being served.

The vent from the lav connects to a 1.5" horizontal dry vent from the washing machine and continues to the same vent that the W.C. and shower are on... all at ceiling height.
pflyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2013, 06:46 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,563
Rewards Points: 1,670
Default

Basement DWV rough in


If your under UPC wait for eplumber to comment and ignore mine. Thats totally different code.

You will need the clean out on your stack for the KS. I'm sure eplumber will give you a drawing from your picture.
Where your taking the vent sounds ok.

Don't cut nothing out yet.. UPC has totally different venting rules.

Just get a 4 inch clean out tee with a 4 by 2 bush on top... picture looked like 3 inch sorry
Ghostmaker is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Ghostmaker For This Useful Post:
pflyer (08-14-2013)
Old 08-13-2013, 07:54 PM   #5
Plumber/Contractor
 
TheEplumber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 7,251
Rewards Points: 2,618
Default

Basement DWV rough in


I'll critique according to what my UPC inspectors would want to see. Bear in mind that every state using a code will make minor adjustments to it as they deem appropriate. That's where your local authority having jurisdiction comes in(AHJ)

Starting at the kitchen stack- install a 4" clean out tee like Ghost said at any height above the floor- then reduce to 2". This serves as the end of the line clean out and the base of stack clean out

Shower vent will probably pass although you should have used a combo y/45 instead of the san tee. Technically- you can't have a santee on it's back or side when used as a drainage fitting- only vertical. But we're splitting hairs here because it is not part of a wet vent.

The toilet vent could be anywhere within 6ft of the flange. So if you moved it downstream beyond the 45, you could eliminate the flat vent which by UPC code is not allowed- although I do it often as long as it has grade- to my inspectors, it falls under the fine print of "structural conditions" (slab) not allowing vertical venting.
BTW- a pipe at a 45 angle is either vertical or horizontal- really your choice to define

If the line running to the toilet is more than 5ft from the 4" wye- your inspector may ask for a clean out- that's another good reason to push the toilet vent downstream- shorten the line to less than 5' and lengthen the toilet arm

You're correct about each fixtures needing vents. I don't know your measurements, but there is a possibility that your lav line could vent your toilet too. If it was ran in 2", within 6ft of the toilet and taken off above the center line- it would be your toilet vent (wet vent). Then you could remove the other toilet vent and wye altogether. The vent above the lav tee would then need to be 2" as well since toilets require it

Hope I didn't cause mass confusion. I commend you for looking at the code and not just cobbling a bunch of fittings together.
I schooled for 4 yrs while working with my tools at the same time to learn most of this stuff- your doing good.
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
TheEplumber is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to TheEplumber For This Useful Post:
pflyer (08-14-2013)
Old 08-14-2013, 01:26 PM   #6
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 9
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Basement DWV rough in


First of all, I can't begin to say thanks enough. Your explanations were great and I really appreciate your help.

Well, the inspector is coming tomorrow! I called him thinking it would take at least a week to schedule. I think I can fix things up, but just wanted to clarify and ask about the tests for inspection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Starting at the kitchen stack- install a 4" clean out tee like Ghost said at any height above the floor- then reduce to 2". This serves as the end of the line clean out and the base of stack clean out.
Done. Makes total sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Shower vent will probably pass although you should have used a combo y/45 instead of the san tee. Technically- you can't have a santee on it's back or side when used as a drainage fitting- only vertical. But we're splitting hairs here because it is not part of a wet vent.
I think my logic was that since it was dry it wasn't like waste could splash upstream. I'll switch that out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
The toilet vent could be anywhere within 6ft of the flange. So if you moved it downstream beyond the 45, you could eliminate the flat vent which by UPC code is not allowed
Once I move the vent downstream, do I do a y/45 there as well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
If the line running to the toilet is more than 5ft from the 4" wye- your inspector may ask for a clean out- that's another good reason to push the toilet vent downstream- shorten the line to less than 5' and lengthen the toilet arm
After I move downstream, I'll be almost exactly 5' to the center of the sewer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
You're correct about each fixtures needing vents. I don't know your measurements, but there is a possibility that your lav line could vent your toilet too. If it was ran in 2", within 6ft of the toilet and taken off above the center line- it would be your toilet vent (wet vent). Then you could remove the other toilet vent and wye altogether. The vent above the lav tee would then need to be 2" as well since toilets require it
I think I'll skip this since everything else is more or less in place and moving the toilet vent makes sense to me and will stop the need for a clean out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Hope I didn't cause mass confusion.
Far from it. Not only did you let me know what to do, you explained it so it makes sense to me.

My last question - what do I need to do to get ready for the inspector? He said I need to do an air or water test. I read up on it a little, but wanted to ask what I should do before he gets here.

Last edited by pflyer; 08-14-2013 at 01:30 PM. Reason: forgot a question
pflyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2013, 02:39 PM   #7
Plumber/Contractor
 
TheEplumber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 7,251
Rewards Points: 2,618
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Since I'm on the phone app, I don't have the ability to see your post as I reply so I hoe I cover your questions.

You should always try to use y/45's on the vent in your type of set up- the inspector will like it. Ask him that your curious if you could have used a tee- I'd like to know hie opinion

For testing you need 5lbs of air on the new work or filled with water. It must show no leaks for 15 minutes
You will need to find a way to cap the main such as a gem cap on the 4" where it joins the clay and caps on the vents and other risers
You can put fittings on the shower stub to introduce air or fill with water from the top of the lav riser

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum. Watch out for spell check
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
TheEplumber is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to TheEplumber For This Useful Post:
pflyer (08-14-2013)
Old 08-14-2013, 04:29 PM   #8
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 9
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Sounds good. I'm heading to the store to pick up a few fittings. One last question I had was on the part in the picture. It's where the new line runs into the Y at the sewer. Is it ok that it's rolled up a bit? Maybe 30. The line after the Y is 1/4 graded towards that point.

I pretty much understand what I need for the test. Do I only have to hold water in the drains or in the vents too? Reason I ask is to see how high I need to plug things up. The house clean out is a few feet away, so I'm going to see if I can plug that up there. Would that be ok?
Attached Thumbnails
Basement DWV rough in-img_5231.jpg  
pflyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2013, 04:37 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,563
Rewards Points: 1,670
Default

Basement DWV rough in


E plumber does UPC code allow you to connect at the base of a stack? I did not realize he was so close.

pflyer usually an inspector will need a test on all new piping. You will need to isolate your new work from the existing house with clean outs and test balls.
Ghostmaker is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Ghostmaker For This Useful Post:
pflyer (08-14-2013)
Old 08-14-2013, 05:09 PM   #10
Plumber/Contractor
 
TheEplumber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 7,251
Rewards Points: 2,618
Default

Basement DWV rough in


I'm not aware of any limits on a branch connection at the base of a stack. Been working with UPC since '86

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum. Watch out for spell check
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
TheEplumber is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to TheEplumber For This Useful Post:
pflyer (08-14-2013)
Old 08-14-2013, 05:29 PM   #11
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 9
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Ok, thanks. How about the rolled y? Am I ok there?
pflyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2013, 05:47 PM   #12
Plumber/Contractor
 
TheEplumber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 7,251
Rewards Points: 2,618
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Quote:
Originally Posted by pflyer
Ok, thanks. How about the rolled y? Am I ok there?
Should be fine if everything has grade

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum. Watch out for spell check
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
TheEplumber is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2013, 10:45 AM   #13
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 9
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Passed inspection!

I added in the cleanout, and reworked the shower and toilet vents to make them totally vertical and built with Y/45's. Forgot to ask about if a sanT on it's back would be ok for the dry vent. I'll ask next time I talk to the inspector.
Attached Thumbnails
Basement DWV rough in-img_5232.jpg   Basement DWV rough in-img_5234.jpg  
pflyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2013, 11:57 AM   #14
Plumber/Contractor
 
TheEplumber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 7,251
Rewards Points: 2,618
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Good going! Now you can put the floor back and move forward

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum. Watch out for spell check
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
TheEplumber is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2013, 03:17 PM   #15
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,563
Rewards Points: 1,670
Default

Basement DWV rough in


Congrats!!!

Advertisement

Ghostmaker is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rough in for Basement TBolt Plumbing 8 12-13-2011 06:56 PM
New rough opening to basement - spiral staircase benjamincall Building & Construction 8 07-16-2010 06:53 PM
Basement wall issues. Need rough idead of fix. meltdowndave Building & Construction 6 10-03-2009 12:24 PM
Basement bathroom rough in plumbing ferris13 Plumbing 5 09-28-2009 11:06 AM
Best way to clean rough basement concrete floor Red Squirrel Flooring 3 09-21-2009 07:47 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts