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Old 01-15-2007, 10:41 PM   #16
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Basement bathroom rough-in


so then this drawing would work?
i still don't understand what the purpose would be in leaving that capped line if i can't even use it.
i should go to some of the neighbours' houses and see if it's similar.
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:26 AM   #17
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How far away is that tee with the capped line from the sink center?

I have another thought here.
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Old 01-16-2007, 10:58 AM   #18
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Can you simplier install a clear-out (or called clean-out) under the tee and use the existing piping configuration, in theory, then you don't need the snake no more... as it will go through the newly installed clear-out, I think if this is ok, it would be a nicer/cleaner solution, I remember I read that from one of the plumbing book, although I didn't do that for mine for laziness...
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Old 01-16-2007, 04:43 PM   #19
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Ron - The sink has not been installed yet, it's sitting in the corner of my basement in pieces. I was planning on the centre of the sink being around 40" to the right of the tee.
What's your other idea?
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:16 PM   #20
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Ok do this, see picture below, your within distance to the vent for the sink 40", you will still need to move the vent for the shower tie-in higher then the sink, and change the cross to a tee so you can come straight to the sink.
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:39 PM   #21
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that's alot easier. to make it even easier couldn't i just cap the other side of the cross instead of replacing it like this?
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:21 PM   #22
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After go back to check some drawing of mine (as I covered with drywall already and forget how it was) in the earlier stage which is exactly like this, I think actually it is your builder is wrong setup, my builder setup is like the correct way.... You could even ask them to fix it if it is still under warantee... anyhow Ron is really the expect here... no doubt...
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Old 01-17-2007, 03:20 PM   #23
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You can only if there will be acess to that tee if the line ever needs to be cleaned out, if no access then you need to replace it with a san-tee as shown in my picture.

Picture this, you cap the line, cover the wall, the sink clogs up, you run a snake in line, where is the cable going to end up at? Thats right, it comes to the capped line, well now what, you open the wall back up, only to cut out the cross which I told you to do it the first time around.

Now your choice cut or cap, if me, I would cut it out of there and replace. Your already going to add a new tee on the line to raise vent for shower, it will only take few more minutes to replace that cross at that same time.
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Old 01-18-2007, 05:10 PM   #24
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Ya that makes sense. I think that's what I'll do.
Thanks for all the help Ron.
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Old 12-08-2007, 01:18 AM   #25
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Stubbed basement/drain pipe from floor for lav/capped 'vent' pipe from ceiling. Can I simply connect lav via p-trap and 'T'? Also, I cut into the vent pipe and water ran out? Is that normal. Is it really a vent?
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Old 03-23-2008, 01:12 AM   #26
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Ron, Quick question if I may.
In the 2 fixture vent connections, if both are at least 6" above the flood rim of the sink...why couldn't you just use a santee cross as the connector to the vent and tie the vent branches to the main vent both in the same spot? (I know you can only use a san-cross on drains when the flood rims are of equal heightt, but does that same apply to venting?)
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Old 03-23-2008, 10:08 AM   #27
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You can as long as the connection is 6" above the flood level of the fixture.

Cross would need to be inverted.
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Old 03-23-2008, 02:44 PM   #28
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Thanks Ron!
I'm aware of the requirement for inverting the cross (makes no sense that you have to do that...but a code is a code!)
I'm in the process if trying to correct a bunch of mistaks in a house we just bought......looks like every fixture in it is wet-vented. Every toilet is sitting on a santee on it's side and vented out the upstream end of the santee.
I'm going to haver to get creative on venting them. 2 of them are set on slab. It is kosher to go flange->Wye(in horizontal)-> 45 street elbow (to get vent horizontal, above bottom of bend, and back to wall where there is an existing hole bored in the concrete to get to vertical), isn't it?
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Old 03-23-2008, 05:05 PM   #29
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Yes as long as you invert the wye 45 on a 45 degree then hit another 45 to head towards wall, then LT into the wall. I don't know what distance you dealing with so I'm talking blindly.

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