DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Plumbing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/)
-   -   Basement bathroom questions (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/basement-bathroom-questions-175285/)

SquishyBall 03-23-2013 08:46 AM

Basement bathroom questions
 
Hi all,
We're thinking of installing a bathroom, here...

http://www.sims-family.net/diychatroom/bathroom1.jpg

The rough dimensions are 4-10 x 7-1, which should be plenty of space. Household stack is right here, so tying in should be convenient...

http://www.sims-family.net/diychatroom/drain1.jpg

Same thing, other side...

http://www.sims-family.net/diychatroom/drain2.jpg

A couple questions I have so far in just thinking about this...

1-- I'll have to turn the cleanout to face the other room (and put an access panel). Working with PVC is pretty easy stuff, but when I cut this and put in a new cleanout, I will not be able to push up or down on this to fit in a new fitting. How do you handle this? Is it just rubber slip-on and band clamps to finish it?

2-- The 3" drain goes into a very menacing looking pipe that would go down below the concrete, turn, and go out to the street. What is that made of, and how are tie-ins to such material made?

This roughing part is a lot of work... but it seems if I put in the rough drains now, then finishing it later or leaving it a closet would be fine.

Everything else is in place...

A vent would have to be run up the wall, which would cut up our upper two floors, but at least I'm right at the right location to do so. Looking up in the bathroom space... there is a lot of overhead...

http://www.sims-family.net/diychatro...oomCeiling.jpg

In order, that's our return... main vent... gas line... conduit... hot and cold... drain from the kitchen. Rough height is 84". After dropping 8-1/4" for the vents, 1/2" drywall, and 1/2" floor tile, finished floor to ceiling would be 74-3/4".

3-- Is that allowed? Barring local codes... just by the National Building Code. I could either do the whole thing at this height or stair-step it up higher once past the vents.

Any other thoughts or recommendations?
Thank you!

joecaption 03-23-2013 09:00 AM

I'm sure some real plumbers will be along at some point before the end of the day.
Someone messed up when framing that wall with the drain line, should have been a 2 X 6 wall.
Also looks like someone used the wrong fitting for that clean out, should have been sort of like this.
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52...ee-635382.aspx

That looks like a test tee to me.

For the best look on the ceiling I'd be looking at adding rafters from stud to stud so it would all be level.

TheEplumber 03-23-2013 10:03 AM

does the stack turn and exit the house right there? If so, you are going to be into a tough battle tying in a 3" line for the toilet the connection point is most likely under the footing. Google lead and oakum pipe joint to see how the old connection is done.

Nothing wrong with the clean out tee either- code compliant

SquishyBall 03-23-2013 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 1143718)
does the stack turn and exit the house right there?

No... The foundation wall you see is the back of the house. So the stack could turn and go along this partition wall toward the front of the house. Altho we have another similar stack to the left about 30' which services the laundry & 1/2 bath. I don't know if this one heads toward that one, or if they take a diagonal and meet. It's probly going to involve getting someone out w a probe and sensor to map out where the drain goes. I checked w the city and they did not have a record of our building plan. Maybe the county will.

If it means anything, if I was to draw a line perpendicular to the street where our water lines come in, it would point toward the other drain being along that line, so this one might turn left to go intersect that.

cleveman 03-23-2013 07:58 PM

You might end up losing some of that framing if you bust up the floor to install plumbing.

In order to have a clean out facing the other direction, nicely cut out the existing clean out, leaving about 3" above and below it. Slip a repair coupling above the clean out and also below it, then re-insert the clean out and rotate it to face the direction you desire. Then glue in the repair couplings.

SquishyBall 03-24-2013 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleveman (Post 1144218)
You might end up losing some of that framing if you bust up the floor to install plumbing.

Precisely why I was considering this now. That wall can still be tipped out.

Ok so turning the cleanout w a repair coupling -- easy.

Thoughts on the room being qualified as a bathroom per building codes if the ceiling height is 75"?

Lead & Oakum... interesting stuff. So this is cast iron all the way down? Would the process be to then just cut the iron pipe where it's horizontal, somewhere past where the last fixture would need to tie in... Use a flexible connector to convert it to PVC, then do all the drains and the turn to vertical in PVC?

I'm reading that the flex connectors leave a ridge and can catch junk. Is that generally a problem? We would end up burying this in concrete again so if it is going to give us problems every few years...

And also I notice here drains are done in white PVC. In California they used the black PVC. What's the difference and why do different regions use different stuff?

Thank you!

cleveman 03-24-2013 09:43 AM

I've never heard of someone serving hard time for having a bathroom with a 75" ceiling.

We don't care about the types of pvc.

Big worry is about the cast anywhere, especially under the concrete. This may all have to be replaced eventually.

gotta run now.

Ghostmaker 03-24-2013 05:08 PM

You will need to break the floor out and then adapt to plastic under the ground. Your 3 inch Y fitting going to your Toilet shower and lav will need to be cut downstream from your stack a min. of 30 inches from the stack. You will then need to run 3 inch to your toilet placing a 3 by 2 y horizontal on that branch. The 2 inch will go to the wall and turn up to your vented lav sink in the wall. Run 2 by 1 1/2 inch y with the 1 1/2 inch going towards the tub/shower. End the pipe in a tub box get the job inspected then install your tub/shower tie onto the tub waste an 1 1/2 trap. Finish your lav with a vent going to an existing vent our run a new vent. You may be able to use an Air Admittance valve but you should contact your local code official regarding them first.

This may not apply in your location because this is IPC code.

Also make sure your other inspections if required are performed. Electrical Heating Etc. It is the owners responsibility to make sure all inspection's are performed not the trades.

You also may need a bathroom fan for water vapor from tub/shower.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:18 AM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved