Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Plumbing

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-18-2010, 08:14 AM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 483
Share |
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Quote:
Originally Posted by alecmcmahon View Post
I've confirmed that the expansion tank held the air in it since yesterday, it still has 15 lbs of air in the expansion tank.

Is 15# not the proper amount?


It starts out running at like 15-20 PSI , then after about an hour of running it raisies up to 30 PSI and the pressure relife pops

ideas??
OK...it seems like the tank is all right. So it could be a number of things:

1) Like AllanJ said, your fast fill could be malfunctioning - may need to be replaced (the one you have now looks ancient).

2) System is still air-bound because there are no bleeders on the convectors - easily corrected.

3) The circulator may be burned-out (or on the verge of burning out - not operating up to capacity)

4) Another less likely possibility is that there could be a pin hole leak in the tankless coil which would slowly boost the pressure in the boiler/heating system.

One question: are the convectors fed in series like a looped baseboard arrangement, or are they on mono-flow tees? If they're on monoflow tees, you'll never get the air out of them without bleeders. If not, you can get out most of the air, and the rest can (hopefully) be purged/scrubbed out by the air scoop/spirovent (which I do not see in any of your pictures).


Last edited by Ishmael; 10-18-2010 at 08:18 AM.
Ishmael is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 04:23 PM   #17
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 168
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


It runs in two continuous loops ( as pictured in first post )



I know my pump runs.

Im still having trouble with it blowing the saftey valve.

Im a little confused on how the boiler knows when to ' stop ' putting water into the system, does the pressure reducing valve do this?

is this something i should open up and clean out? any way to test?
alecmcmahon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 05:13 PM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 483
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Quote:
Originally Posted by alecmcmahon View Post
It runs in two continuous loops ( as pictured in first post )



I know my pump runs.

Im still having trouble with it blowing the saftey valve.

Im a little confused on how the boiler knows when to ' stop ' putting water into the system, does the pressure reducing valve do this?

is this something i should open up and clean out? any way to test?
Yes, the fill valve automatically limits the water pressure in the boiler; if the system pressure drops below a certain amount, it should open and replenish the system. When it reaches the cut-off limit (usually 15 to 20lbs), it will shut off.

The simplest way to test it is to shut off the boiler feed. I noticed in your pictures, there's a ball valve on either side of the fast fill valve. Turn one of them off - doesn't matter which one - turn your thermostat up and let the boiler get up to temperature. If the pressure still rises and causes the relief valve to blow, then it's not the fill valve. If it doesn't, then you need to replace the fill valve.
Ishmael is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 05:22 PM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 168
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishmael View Post
Yes, the fill valve automatically limits the water pressure in the boiler; if the system pressure drops below a certain amount, it should open and replenish the system. When it reaches the cut-off limit (usually 15 to 20lbs), it will shut off.

The simplest way to test it is to shut off the boiler feed. I noticed in your pictures, there's a ball valve on either side of the fast fill valve. Turn one of them off - doesn't matter which one - turn your thermostat up and let the boiler get up to temperature. If the pressure still rises and causes the relief valve to blow, then it's not the fill valve. If it doesn't, then you need to replace the fill valve.

Makes sense.

I've had the boiler off for about an hour now, and at ambient temp the pressure is about 20 PSI.


Should I, with the make up to the boiler after the fill valve closed reduce the pressure manually to something lower like 10 or 12 PSI in the boiler? and then run this test ?

and also, how much fluxuation should i see on the boiler gauge pressure wise? If im starting at say 10-15 PSI @ ambient, how much pressure should i see after the boiler has been running a while.

Last edited by alecmcmahon; 10-18-2010 at 05:30 PM.
alecmcmahon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 05:51 PM   #20
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,730
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


A.

Remove tank again, and check air pressure. You can't accurately check it while it is attached to the system.

B. Your system has a purge valve set up, that was suppose to be used to remove air from the system.

C. its possible, that the bladder is now damaged in that tank.
beenthere is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 05:53 PM   #21
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 168
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


ok, it's been running for about 30+ minutes now.


I dropped the pressure in the boiler manually to about 10-12 PSI or so. I closed the make up to the boiler after the auto fill valve.

Running the bolier, its cycled on about 3-4 times now, has not popped the saftey valve.

Before i fired it up it was @ 10-12 PSI, now while warmed up and running, its hovering at about 20 PSI or so.

Sound correct?

Replaced PRV/Autofill valve?
alecmcmahon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 05:55 PM   #22
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 168
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
A.

Remove tank again, and check air pressure. You can't accurately check it while it is attached to the system.

B. Your system has a purge valve set up, that was suppose to be used to remove air from the system.

C. its possible, that the bladder is now damaged in that tank.
I had removed the tank again to check the PSI after the first failed attempt, it still had 15 PSI in it, which was exactly what i put in it 12 hours or so earlier.


Sorry, but where / what does this Purge valve setup for bleeding air look like?

I know i still have air in the pipes as im currently listening to it circulate and gurgle through the house.
alecmcmahon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 06:00 PM   #23
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 483
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Quote:
Originally Posted by alecmcmahon View Post
ok, it's been running for about 30+ minutes now.


I dropped the pressure in the boiler manually to about 10-12 PSI or so. I closed the make up to the boiler after the auto fill valve.

Running the bolier, its cycled on about 3-4 times now, has not popped the saftey valve.

Before i fired it up it was @ 10-12 PSI, now while warmed up and running, its hovering at about 20 PSI or so.

Sound correct?

Replaced PRV/Autofill valve?
Yep...I think you've got it.
Ishmael is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 06:02 PM   #24
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,730
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Pic 3.
Yellow handle valve is the shut off. And the valve above that is the purge valve.

You shut the yellow handled valve. Attach garden hose to purge valve. Open purge valve, and then open water feed valve. let run until no more air comes out. And reverse procedure to disconnect from purging.
beenthere is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 06:10 PM   #25
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 168
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishmael View Post
Yep...I think you've got it.
Ishmael, thank you! you've been a great help.

Will i suffer an ill effects by keeping the automatic make up closed for another day or so till i have the time to cut in a new auto fill valve?
alecmcmahon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 07:43 PM   #26
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 483
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Quote:
Originally Posted by alecmcmahon View Post
Ishmael, thank you! you've been a great help.

Will i suffer an ill effects by keeping the automatic make up closed for another day or so till i have the time to cut in a new auto fill valve?
As long as your system is pretty tight (i.e. - no leaks), it'll be fine. Now about those two convectors that still aren't getting hot...
Ishmael is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 08:37 PM   #27
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 168
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


I think i solved that issue, there was a check valve on the supply after when it T's off for each loop. I half closed the valve on the side that was getting too hot.

The results were pretty good, water is taking the least resistant path and more hot water is getting to the other side where i need it most, and the side with the half closed valve is getting equally hot. All in all i am pretty happy with that.
alecmcmahon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 09:00 PM   #28
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 1,732
Default

Baseboard Heat / Cold rooms / No Bleeders


Are your convectors performing properly now. There should be a means to bleed at the convectors.

Jim F is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cold rooms BlueBSH Building & Construction 24 03-15-2010 01:37 PM
Radient Heat as "secondary loop" from baseboard? ControlTech HVAC 2 02-15-2010 09:05 PM
Electric Baseboard heat mike4 Electrical 1 03-26-2009 04:55 PM
Baseboard Heat monk4270 Plumbing 2 12-07-2008 06:19 PM
Hot Water Baseboard Heat danthemandan HVAC 1 03-19-2007 09:27 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.