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Old 08-18-2010, 02:10 PM   #1
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


I am curious if the pros think the sweat valves will have a shorter life. I can sweat cu and have installed both styles w/o issue but am always concerned the heat may shorten the life of the "innards" and they may prematurely fail.

Thanks for any feedback.

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Old 08-18-2010, 03:17 PM   #2
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


My uninformed opinion is that my sweated joint has hardly any chance of leaking. I've had leaks from threaded joints so I always tend to solder. How this effects a ball valve, I have no idea. I would guess that soldering would have no effect.


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Old 08-18-2010, 06:06 PM   #3
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


I've seen them leak if they get really really really hot (glowing ) but never just from normal heat. So if you only get them hot enough for solder to flow it shouldn't make any problems
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:34 PM   #4
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


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I've seen them leak if they get really really really hot (glowing ) but never just from normal heat. So if you only get them hot enough for solder to flow it shouldn't make any problems
Don't buy a cheap valve
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:38 PM   #5
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


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Don't buy a cheap valve
lol i install what the boss buys for me :P.... but you can overheat any valve enough to melt the teflon packing
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:43 PM   #6
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


hello,
you can apply heat dissipating paste around the valve or a wet rag.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:30 AM   #7
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


I do use the wet rag method and am careful to only heat as much as necessary for the solder to flow.

On the subject of valves, what brand do people like?

I've used different brands but they all seem to be made in china (shocked ) so are some better than others? I've used quite a few from Harbor Freight and they have held up fine. They appear to have all teflon seals and look as good as the ones from HD that cost ~2X as much.
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:07 AM   #8
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_P View Post
I do use the wet rag method and am careful to only heat as much as necessary for the solder to flow.

On the subject of valves, what brand do people like?

I've used different brands but they all seem to be made in china (shocked ) so are some better than others? I've used quite a few from Harbor Freight and they have held up fine. They appear to have all teflon seals and look as good as the ones from HD that cost ~2X as much.
I was just informed for another reason that metals in China cost $2 vs. same in US at $10.
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Old 08-19-2010, 03:55 PM   #9
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


Buy the best valves you can afford. Some ball valves have a nylon ball, and could destroy it, if TOO much heat is used.

Metal balls for heat.
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:04 AM   #10
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


We use threaded valves for transitions between materials, and sweat valves to go copper - copper, pex- copper, pex - pex.
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:50 AM   #11
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


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We use threaded valves for transitions between materials, and sweat valves to go copper - copper, pex- copper, pex - pex.
Any merit to adding press fitting valves as alternative to question? I used a rag and considered myself using minimal amount of heat and the valve noticeably became easier to turn. Cheap valve?

I am considering using them for hall bath remodel.
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:45 PM   #12
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


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We use threaded valves for transitions between materials, and sweat valves to go copper - copper, pex- copper, pex - pex.

Not sure what the last part of this means?? I understand the copper to copper part of it..but what else are you saying?
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Old 08-21-2010, 04:25 PM   #13
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


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Not sure what the last part of this means?? I understand the copper to copper part of it..but what else are you saying?
You can transition between different pipe materials using a threaded valve. copper on incoming side and pex on outgoing side. or galvanized to pex, etc.
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Old 08-21-2010, 04:44 PM   #14
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


Everyone seems to agree that too much heat can ruin a ball valve. But what is too much heat and why take the chance. I say use threaded ball valves and eliminate the possibility of damage. The last time I installed a soldered ball valve, it did not leak but I noticed that it was much easier to turn on and off after the soldering. In my mind, I questioned whether the heat was responsible and if there might be a problem somewhere in the future. The Home Depot associate who I spoke to and who appeared knowledgeable said that soldering is not usually a problem.
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Old 08-21-2010, 04:54 PM   #15
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ball valves: sweat vs threaded


the problem is that brass dissipates heat faster than copper meaning that it takes more heat to get the solder to suck in all the way around the joint.if manufacturers would make the valve a little longer as not to get the teflon or what ever matl.used to hot and affect the seal would greatly improve sweat ball valves !

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