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Old 03-17-2013, 09:38 PM   #1
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Ball valve install


I am going to be cutting out an old 3/4 inch gate valve and replacing it with a sweat ball valve. My question is I can soldier that valve directly with regular soldier. I have always used electronic soldier or taken valves apart. I was thinking maybe just buying one of those presoldier ones to be safe. How much heat can they take. Do one side then wait to cool and do the other side, seems hard to believe they can take that sort of heat.

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Old 03-17-2013, 09:48 PM   #2
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Ball valve install


Glad to see you will be using a ball valve. Good choice. You'll be glad you did to.

As far as soldering it, yes, use regular solder, low lead, flux, and propane torch should do it. It's quicker to do it all at once, then let cool.


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Old 03-17-2013, 09:51 PM   #3
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Ball valve install


Check out this link. It will show you how to solder the ball valve with the torch. Good idea to remove handle before soldering ball valve. They can take a lot of heat.

Or you can use the presolder one, it's up to u.



link here

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Old 03-17-2013, 10:02 PM   #4
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Ball valve install


If you have to ask about which solder to use, and whether to do half at a time, you may want to just get a plumber in to replace the valve, and save yourself the grief.

You can learn on some test pieces. Have him put in a T and a curb cock near the main valve on the house side in case you want to drain down the system in the future.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:04 PM   #5
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Ball valve install


Quote:
Originally Posted by mj12 View Post
I am going to be cutting out an old 3/4 inch gate valve and replacing it with a sweat ball valve. My question is I can soldier that valve directly with regular soldier. I have always used electronic soldier or taken valves apart. I was thinking maybe just buying one of those presoldier ones to be safe. How much heat can they take. Do one side then wait to cool and do the other side, seems hard to believe they can take that sort of heat.
The valves can take a lot of heat- but don't abuse it. I like to solder ball valves in the partly open position too.
Heat the valve socket evenly, then apply solder to the opposite side of the flame. It's the same as soldering a fitting- just a tad more heat because of the brass body.
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:19 AM   #6
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Ball valve install


jagans, these ball valves are a relative new invention in the world of residential plumbing. I have soldier a good deal a valves and faucets together. This is one thing I like about forums, you can ask as many questions as you want. I see so many people doing things the wrong way most of their lives. Do not be afraid to ask questions son.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:49 AM   #7
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Ball valve install


Install a Shark Bite ball valve, no soldering needed.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:56 AM   #8
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Ball valve install


In that case, the better solution if you want quick and dirty, is grab a Shark Bite valve. Sweating is an art, and you have to get it right, and if you are careful, it will look as good as a pro.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:57 AM   #9
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Ball valve install


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Originally Posted by mj12 View Post
jagans, these ball valves are a relative new invention in the world of residential plumbing. I have soldier a good deal a valves and faucets together. This is one thing I like about forums, you can ask as many questions as you want. I see so many people doing things the wrong way most of their lives. Do not be afraid to ask questions son.
Actually have been around for the past 60 or so years (used mainly before, for just gas shut-offs). Just becoming more common for Potable water, due to people like us recommend them over gate valves.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:32 AM   #10
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I believe the Navy was the first to start using ball valves. No sharkbite in this application. I can hardly reach the valve let alone support it. Sharkbites work good where they can be properly supported, any flex, such as a valve can kill them first time. Today is the the first day of plumbing for my four year old, can not having him seeing papa using sharkbites just yet. He has been holding the light seen he could first walk.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:11 AM   #11
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Ball valve install


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The valves can take a lot of heat- but don't abuse it. I like to solder ball valves in the partly open position too.
Heat the valve socket evenly, then apply solder to the opposite side of the flame. It's the same as soldering a fitting- just a tad more heat because of the brass body.
Did you lol @ the video too? I did especially when he kept pulling his torch away and i could see it cool off.
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:27 PM   #12
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Ball valve install


Yes, ball valves can take a lot of heat but if you haven't soldered before you might have a problem knowing how much. I don't use sharkbite and I don't solder ball valves either. I always try to install nipples on the pipe and then buy a ball valve that screws into place even if I have to open a joint somewhere along the line to make one side of the pipe turn. Now, I know the other suggestions are acceptable and can work fine, but this is the way I feel most comfortable doing it. I guess it has to do with frying the ball on my first attempt of soldering a ball valve many, many years ago.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:11 PM   #13
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That is what I did, I got a threaded valve. This was in a very tight space. I did not feel it was time to experiment. Tonight me and the kids are going to see just how much heat one of these valves can take. A friend has a gate valve on his hot water tank that needs replaced so I will go ahead and do that
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:16 PM   #14
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Ball valve install


Compression valves are only as good as you can get them tightened, and with a tight space, you will not be able to get them tight. You would be better to go with the Shark Bite, since you can place it over the pipe with one hand, then press down on the bottom pipe, then push down the top pipe onto the valve to secure it in the shark bite.

But in reality, you would be better in relocating that valve to a better location, and use a fitting to connect the two sections, that the old valve was at.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:21 PM   #15
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Threaded as in female thread on the valve and male thread on the copper fitting. Sharkbites are nice, but I need things 100 % fail proof can can not trust something that is not sweated in

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