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-   -   Adding a new zone - hydronic baseboard (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/adding-new-zone-hydronic-baseboard-54712/)

paulrost 10-08-2009 08:29 PM

Adding a new zone - hydronic baseboard
 
I need some guidance with several questions on the actual tie in to the water.

1. Manifold picture is below. I am going to tie into the first tee on the left below in the manifold. Do I need to drop all the water from the system at the main drain valve (not in the pic below) or can I merely manage it by shutting off the zones (in the manifold pic below)?

2. When I get ot the stage of having to bleed the system, do I need to do anything with the expansion tank?

3. I assume that when bleeding the zone after hooking everything up, I do not need to over ride the main water inlet supply.. the pressure value should automatically allow more water into the system to accommodate for all the water I am emptying during the bleed process????

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...nkelly/049.jpg

AllanJ 10-08-2009 08:48 PM

You have to drain the pipes in the work area and possibly the boiler itself to below the level of where you are working.

If the zone piping has shutoffs at both the outgoing manifold and return manifold, then the water the zones contain can stay there while other parts of the system are drained.

If during the draining process the expansion tank empties out, it will probably pressurize itself to the correct amount by itself when the system is refilled and bled. You'll have to check the system instructions if a different expansion tank calibration is needed.

With an automatic pressure valve refill, additional water as needed should enter the system as you bleed.

paulrost 10-11-2009 06:32 AM

Thanks for the guidance. It all went fine. Just finding it takes a long time to bleed the system.

AllanJ 10-11-2009 08:22 AM

Modern hydronic (FHW) systems with baseboard radiators are hard to bleed because there aren't "high spots" where large amounts of air can accumulate and be bled all at once. A riser similar to a water hammer shock absorber extending perhaps a foot above the rest of the piping and with the bleed valve on top would afford such a high spot but there is no convenient way to conceal it.

Provided there is some give to the pipes under the floor before the first clamp or hole in a joist, wood blocks can be used to elevate or depress the ends of the baseboard pipes so air "gravitates" towards a bleed valve rather than away from it.


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