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Old 03-05-2012, 09:59 AM   #1
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....


Hello all,

So I seem to have created a small pickle for myself. In doing a bathroom reno, I removed a steel 30" old style tub. My plan was to both flip the tub around the other way (as it was in an alcove, so I could turn the one wall into a half wall), and increase the tub size to 32" since the alcove seemed to support it. After double checking that the drain wasn't going to be a problem moving 1 inch over (no joist in the way), I ordered the tub. However, what I did fail to double check was the plumbing that now has to go on the opposite wall. I'll post pics in a sec, but basically, there are 3 studs on the wall. The one in the middle falls almost directly on 16" from the side wall, creating an interference issue if I want to center the shower/bath plumbing with the drain. 16" is actually just past the edge of the stud, but any valves, etc, will clearly interfere with the stud. The other side of that wall is a closet in the hall. So, any suggestions on how to address this? These are the thoughts I've had....

1. Just remove portions of the stud at locations where valves, etc will be. I would install blocking to ensure there is still some structure to the wall (I think this would be ok, as it's not load bearing), but this seems a bit of a hack, plus I have the issue of if there are nails supporting the closet wall in the portion of stud I want to remove....

2. Shim out the tub from the side wall. I can do so at most 3/4" before the side of the tub would be flush with the drywall outside the alcove... This also brings the drain fairly close to interfering with a joist, but I think I'd be ok. Not even sure this would give me enough room for valves.

3. Try and remove/move the stud. I don't think I could accomplish this other than demo'ing the hall closet wall. This would be an appealing option if the walls weren't plaster. I think it would be really hard to just remove a section and match it up nicely after. And removing the entire one piece of wall is hard, due to the metal lathing in the corners... without damaging the other walls.

Any help/advice/suggestions/ideas? In theory I'll need two valves, a mixing valve, and a diverter valve (as I'm planning on going with tub spout, shower head, and seperate handheld). Also, the tub spout and the shower head would need to be on center, but if it's only the diameter of the copper pipe, I think I might be ok... it's the valves I"m concerned with.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Charlie

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Old 03-05-2012, 10:15 AM   #2
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....


If it's a non supporting wall then just move the stud. As long as it's not where a drywall joint is it's not going to do any harm.
1/2" drywall can span 24" on a wall with no problum.
Try to reinstall it where the shelving in the closit can also be attached to it for support.
Make sure to add an access panel on the back side of the valve, they make simple snap in ones and sell them at Lowes and Home Depot.

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Old 03-05-2012, 10:19 AM   #3
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....


Thanks Joe.

I do want to add an access panel.
My concern with removing/move the stud is that it's not drywall but plaster on the opposite side, but maybe I'll try anyhow.

Appreciate the help!
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:33 AM   #4
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....


Feeling lucky? You could cut a straight line across the stud with an ossilating saw then slip a sawall between the stud and the back side of the plaster to cut off the nails or screws.
If that fails it's simple enough to just remove that section of plaster and just install a piece of drywall to replace it. May have to shim out the studs to get the inside corner and ceiling to match back up even.
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #5
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....


So I've done a bit of research here, and it appears that this is called "Veneer Plaster", where its basically plaster on a special type of drywall instead of lathes. So I'm guessing the nails that are used are to hold the drywall, not so much the plaster. So if I installed some additional studs, could I screw through the plaster and drywall from the other side to support it, and then remove existing stud per the method you recommend Joe?

Sorry for my inexperience, how do I get my recip saw behind the stud, the body is too thick to get the blade back there no? Or do you just bend the blade? I've also heard of something called an offset? Is that an attachment I can get for this type of application?

Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:19 PM   #6
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....


ok add the two studs"1 on each side of valve location" to replace the one you are going to remove. screw thru plaster in to both new studs. cut old stud in half then cut above to first cut to remove about 6 inch piece then just pull straight out both pieces of stud and them remove any nails that might be still stuck into blue board "drywall behind plaster".
patch screws and any screw pops in closet with drywall mud
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:44 AM   #7
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....


So here is a pic. The stud in the middle is the problem.

So are you recommending 1" on either side for stability reasons, or can I add them a bit further away than an inch?

I was also thinking of using (someones suggestion) one of those new oscillating tools to cut through the nails behind the stud from the other wall, any cons to doing that? (provided I can figure out where the nails are!)
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....-img_00000042.jpg  
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:51 AM   #8
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....


Also....

Can I run supply lines on the outside of the studs? When I removed the old tub, there was space between the tub and the studs on the back wall. Likewise, with the new tub, if there is similar type of room (lower than the nailing flange), to run plumbing pipes on the outside of the studs, is that ok to do? Or is that against code or bad form? As you can see in the pic where I capped the current supply lines, I need to run them along those studs to the opposite wall of the tub alcove. I can drill the studs and run it through them... but I figured it would be easier to just clamp them on the outside of the studs if that was ok. Thoughts?
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32" tub replacing 30" tub....-img_00000018.jpg   32" tub replacing 30" tub....-img_00000047.jpg  

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