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Old 12-30-2012, 09:53 PM   #16
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


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Oh I pulled it out a bit just to show it, it was all the way to the end. So I don't have to use teflon or dope? How much torque roughly should I be giving it?

I was using one pair of pliers to hold the valve and another to tighten as hard as I could. Was hard to get it to go all the way, but maybe it's because I was using teflon tape. Wondering if it's just the thing of cleaning up and trying without any teflon. The furrel is the part that goes inside the pipe right? The end does look a bit rounded, is this a part I can buy separately? This would have probably came with the valve.

From what I've been told the pressure in my area is around 160PSI but I'd have to install a gauge to see for myself though. I know that every time the washing machine solenoid valves kick in it sounds like a truck is hitting the house. And that's with water hammer arrestors installed! I'd have to go around fastening the pipes better maybe.
If your pressure is around 160 PSI, then next to nothing is gonna stop that compression joint from leaking. Also, your toilet fill valves are about to explode, so is your dishwasher. Code here states maximum pressure is 80 PSI, if you have anything higher you need a PRV, or you need to fix PRV you currently have. Assuming you are merely incorrect or received false information from someone, I'll +1 pretty much everything Bondo says.

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Old 12-30-2012, 10:00 PM   #17
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


Guess it's time to get a pressure gauge and go from there to at least confirm what kind of pressure I have, maybe that is part of the issue. I probably do need a regulator as well. Maybe it was 130 or something I just remember it was 100 and something that someone said. It was considered way above average.
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:14 PM   #18
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


Assuming you have a hot water tank with a working T&P, if your pressure was over 150 it would be firing off as you read this. So I don't think you are at 160, but if your PRV is shot, or you don't have one, and your incoming pressure is greater than 80 PSI, all your fixtures are paying the price for it. Most appliances and fixtures state a maximum incoming PSI within their installation manuals, which typically falls somewhere between 70-80 PSI.

60-65 PSI is generally what I set a PRV to when I install one, unless the homeowner indicates he/she would like it set higher.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:56 AM   #19
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


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Oh I pulled it out a bit just to show it, it was all the way to the end. So I don't have to use teflon or dope? How much torque roughly should I be giving it?
Ayuh,.... Once the fitting is assembled, Right,....

That insert becomes part of the assembly, 'n will NOT slide out, Ever again....

When assembled, Right, the furrel, 'n insert mold themselves into a tight fitting crimp, which can't ever be disassembled....

Either yer usin' the wrong pieces, or the dope, 'n tape you used didn't allow the fitting to work properly...

All this, is when usin' Brass fitting pieces...
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:09 AM   #20
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


Cut the old tubing and fittings out , go buy a new set of compression fittings (like and Kind) start over, hand tight then a quarter turn just snug, turn water on, look for leaks, if you see a minor leak tighten just a little bit, do not over tighten it's one of the most mistakes made in plumbing .
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:47 AM   #21
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


I second those braided water lines. Take all involved fittings up to the plumbing supply house and ask for the length lines you need. A licensed, insured, bonded plumber would come and fix that in Cleveland for around 75 dollars out the door. Just saying.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:11 AM   #22
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Whaaaat ! A licensed bonded and insured plumber for a 1/4 " water line to a humidifier. I don't think so. Supply houses, what a joke if they don't know you the countermen treat you like crap, disrespect you , intimidate you, charge you double, ask you stupid questions that make you look like an ass.
Been in the business for 45 years and still can't stand supply houses, electrical, plumbing. HVAC.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:26 AM   #23
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


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From what I've been told the pressure in my area is around 160PSI but I'd have to install a gauge to see for myself though.
If that's true, that is really high for residential plumbing. You might think about getting a pressure reducing valve installed. Or perhaps you already have one and it isn't working.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:57 AM   #24
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If it is you got to lower that pressure by about 100 pounds. Get a water gage and actually see what it is and take the next step to adjust it.
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:14 AM   #25
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Hey guys..the bottom is a "flare" fitting..What would a ferrule be doing behind it and what is it mating to? Not compatible and doesn't make sense to me. Cut it all out and start over as previously stated. AND check your pressure..but I doubt that is the issue. More like wrong fittings.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:52 AM   #26
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


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Hey guys..the bottom is a "flare" fitting..What would a ferrule be doing behind it and what is it mating to? Not compatible and doesn't make sense to me. Cut it all out and start over as previously stated. AND check your pressure..but I doubt that is the issue. More like wrong fittings.
Ayuh,.... I donno what yer lookin' at, but there's NO Flare fittings in this thread....
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:21 PM   #27
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BONDO Look at pic in post #10. Pipe in lower half of fitting appears to be flared. no? But, has a compression nut behind it. And , I think a plastic ferrule. Quite a mix. flared pipe...plastic? ferrule and brass compression nut. I say cut it all out and start over using compatible fittings.

Last edited by techpappy; 01-01-2013 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:27 PM   #28
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


That "flare" fitting is just a 1/4" brass insert that you often seen supplied with saddle fittings for use with ice makers. Generally I see them tightened to the shutoff with some sort of washer and then the tubing is just slid over top. I have seen them supplied with bypass humidifiers like the one installed here but I don't trust them and just toss the piece in favor of a true compression joint.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:02 PM   #29
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


Ok so I went to HD to see what they had. I found a shark bite for 1/4 that had a threaded end, so I needed to find a crimp pex fitting with the opposite threaded end and could not find it (even had someone helping me find it). Ended up just keeping the valve I have and put a new flare fitting and new ring. I think it's pretty much how I had it before but what I did different is I did not use any teflon tape on the threads (what you see is a bit of residual but it looks worse than it is) and I only tightened by hand then did a quarter turn with the plyers. It's not leaking now, but I'll keep an eye on it. All the other times it would only start to leak later down the road so it's still early to tell.

I also could not find pressure gauges or regulators at HD, only pressure gauge I found was for pumps and had an oddball thread to it and only went to 100psi. I'll probably have to check online such as ebay as I guess it's a rather speciality item. I'm curious to know what my pressure really is so I can take action if it is indeed too high.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:58 PM   #30
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1/2 -> 1/4 valve leaks


Just cut it out and use a shark bite, but make sure its cut square, chamfer the end of the tubing a little and make sure its properly seated. I can see by the compression nut that you are a plier mechanic.

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