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-   -   1 for 1 jet pump swap out. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/1-1-jet-pump-swap-out-160476/)

freeclimbmtb 10-18-2012 01:39 PM

1 for 1 jet pump swap out.
 
Due to a very long recharge rate I am replacing my in-basement jet style well pump. (planning for Saturday.) While I am at it, I am going to reorient it to make for a little more space so I can fit the softener in a little later.

The plan is to get the new pump, get any changes to the plumbing/routing done and ready to go, then shut the water off, bleed the line, and do the swap over quickly. My main question is with regard to priming the new pump. Can I simply cut the water to the house back in, and prime the pump using the water that drops in from the rest of the house? (already at pressure if I isolate before the tank) Or is there a better way to do this...keeping in mind once I disconnect the lines, ive lost any means of getting more priming water. (planning to have a bucket or two of water drawn out just in case)

Thanks!

DexterII 10-18-2012 02:05 PM

Doesn't sound real likely, at least in my opinion. Just grabbing a couple of numbers, 250' of 1/2 I.D. pipe holds less than a quart of water, and even if you did have enough volume in the pipes, the water is only going to flow back as far as your check valve, which is where? Probably at the pump?

DexterII 10-18-2012 02:15 PM

Well, amazing what a piece of paper and a pencil can do. I just scratched out a simple sketch, and yes, I suppose that it is feasible, assuming that you can get everything repiped without disturbing the connection between the check valve and line to the point, and that all of the plumbing within your home flows directly back to the pump. I would still make sure that I had plenty of water in reserve though. Will be interesting to see if any plumbers have actually done this.

freeclimbmtb 10-18-2012 02:18 PM

Foot valve out in the well...so the suction line at least should still be full up to the joint I break it at. The return line will probably gravity feed back to the well, and the discharge will obviously drain where I pull it off the pump. but like I said, if I use the isolation upstream of the pressure tank, thats only about 4 feet of pipe id lose, plus the volume in the pump casing...

My main concern is losing the prime on the pump...as long as I can swap the pump out and then get the new one moving water again, I can do work upstream with no problem because isolating the pump will hold the prime.

freeclimbmtb 10-18-2012 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DexterII (Post 1033388)
Will be interesting to see if any plumbers have actually done this.

My thoughts exactly! :thumbsup:

freeclimbmtb 12-19-2012 05:20 PM

Alright as an update the pump swap was a success. Got it swapped out this past weekend. (I got sent on the road for work so it had to wait a while.)

New problem. The pump wont shut off by the pressure switch. Its a squareD 30/50, but the brand new (same model) pump struggles to put out more than 40# (read on the gage I JUST replaced) Ive tweaked the switch down a bit so its not truely cutting out at 50 anymore either. Oddly enough, at around 45#, if I kill the power to the pump, it shuts off (obviously) but then the switch contacts open, when I power back up, the pump remains off until the system calls a demand, then the low pressure cuts the pump back in, and off we go again.

I can live with it for the moment, being this time of year its tough getting a plumber when its not truely an emergency, but I would really like to get this taken care of soon. The pressure tank may be a little suspect, but even if it was, the behavior is still a little odd in my opinion.

Bondo 12-19-2012 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freeclimbmtb (Post 1076217)
Alright as an update the pump swap was a success. Got it swapped out this past weekend. (I got sent on the road for work so it had to wait a while.)

New problem. The pump wont shut off by the pressure switch. Its a squareD 30/50, but the brand new (same model) pump struggles to put out more than 40# (read on the gage I JUST replaced) Ive tweaked the switch down a bit so its not truely cutting out at 50 anymore either. Oddly enough, at around 45#, if I kill the power to the pump, it shuts off (obviously) but then the switch contacts open, when I power back up, the pump remains off until the system calls a demand, then the low pressure cuts the pump back in, and off we go again.

I can live with it for the moment, being this time of year its tough getting a plumber when its not truely an emergency, but I would really like to get this taken care of soon. The pressure tank may be a little suspect, but even if it was, the behavior is still a little odd in my opinion.

Ayuh,.... Swap in the old 1 ya took out, 'n see what it does...

Is the pump just not gettin' the water it needs to pressurize the system or what,..??
It oughta be able to make 50 psi...
Is it suckin' air, on the well side somewhere,..??

freeclimbmtb 12-19-2012 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bondo (Post 1076221)
Ayuh,.... Swap in the old 1 ya took out, 'n see what it does...

Is the pump just not gettin' the water it needs to pressurize the system or what,..??
It oughta be able to make 50 psi...
Is it suckin' air, on the well side somewhere,..??

Old one is junk. I popped the case open and the diaphragm inside is all broken up, plus the motor sounds like its trying to pump ball bearings when it runs. (that and I had to sawsall the discharge pipe off the old one to get it out, the new one installed a little differently so swapping back isnt really an option.) Though I did consider switching to the old pressure switch.

The weird part is that its supplying water to the house FINE...no air bubbles at the faucets or anything. And like I said, as soon as I kill power, the pressure switch contacts open and the pump stays off until it drops below the low set. It holds pressure too, if I dont run loads, it holds fine...if it were sucking air, I should be getting air at my high point, AND it should be losing pressure too.





I think??

Bondo 12-19-2012 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freeclimbmtb (Post 1076294)
Old one is junk. I popped the case open and the diaphragm inside is all broken up, plus the motor sounds like its trying to pump ball bearings when it runs. (that and I had to sawsall the discharge pipe off the old one to get it out, the new one installed a little differently so swapping back isnt really an option.) Though I did consider switching to the old pressure switch.

The weird part is that its supplying water to the house FINE...no air bubbles at the faucets or anything. And like I said, as soon as I kill power, the pressure switch contacts open and the pump stays off until it drops below the low set. It holds pressure too, if I dont run loads, it holds fine...if it were sucking air, I should be getting air at my high point, AND it should be losing pressure too. I think??


Ayuh,... That's what I meant, not the Whole job...

freeclimbmtb 12-21-2012 09:22 AM

Alright, swapped back to the old pressure switch, seems to be controlling the pump correctly now. (at least it shuts off at the high set) I did notice the old switch was a 20/40 not a 30/50...wondering if this has anything to do with why Im not making more than 45lbs...could the pressure tank be fighting the pump in some way? Also, Im beginning to wonder if my tank needs to be replaced as well...rapping the side of the tank up high should sound hollow like its empty right? It rings like hitting any piece of steel, but doesnt really echo like its empty...


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