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Old 08-21-2009, 12:25 PM   #16
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Denmark - the original Flatlands
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Wood worm treatment

doGJ yB devomeR

Last edited by JGod; 08-21-2009 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Posted twice, and with splelink erroars
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Old 08-21-2009, 12:41 PM   #17
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Denmark - the original Flatlands
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Wood worm treatment

The US navy has done a formula for timber preservation, 60% Borax 40% Boric Acid, If you search for "Borax Boric Acid US Navy" you will find it.

Having done a bit of research myself, down to the chemistry level, there is a distinct advantage in adding a proportion of Glycol to this mixture, up to 50%.The glycol is a solvent for Borate compounds, and is absorbed both deeper and faster into timber than water, it carries between and along the timber fibres, and is in itself toxic, but when dry, emulsifies, and will not wash out, but as a word of advice wear a mask, and dispose of sawdust safely when cutting timber treated with this mix.

The recipies on the net seem to be about the same, but I have found that I get a residue in the liquid mix if I try the quantities to water they show.

This is probably because I am using "Technical Grade" components, and the recipe writers seem to be extremely generous, or my concentrations are higher, so not as much will disolve, as their's may have a "bulking agent", or more water of chrystalisation.

The white residue you get when you apply borax, or boric acid, can be dusted off with a wire brush, but avoid the dust.

If the timber you have if infested with bugs, use standard glycol to kill it, make a trough in plastic sheet, and liberally spray a few times, turning over each time. Allow the top to dry between sprays, three good wet sprays should do it, stand in a buket overnight to get up the grain from each end. The bugs will last one life cycle at best, then find something nicer to eat, (put a sacrificial plank nearby).

The solution should be warmed to mix and use, and if stored, re-heated to ensure no chrystals exist. (Filter or allow sedement to settle before spraying as it will clog your sprayer). Wear a mask gloves etc use a long lance, avoid drips on you, set the spray so it DOES NOT MIST, wash sprayer thoroughly and best to use a completely plastic sprayer to avoid the acid eating the metal components.

At a push you can use car antifreeze, but test to see if the dye stains the wood - try three coats, as just one will not show up.


Owner of a Woodworm Zoo in West Denmark
Slowly evicting them

p.s. leave a sacrificial timber in loft to check that it works, spray it the same as the timber, for half its length, the other half untreated, look at it every couple of years, and renew (burn the old one in a bonfire outdoors), as it should be the only timber the insects can lay eggs on, so it doubles as a trap. Note also that this mixture, is not that friendly to nails e.t.c. when wet, so WD40 any Bolts etc before spraying.

Last edited by JGod; 08-21-2009 at 02:22 PM. Reason: more bad spelling
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:22 PM   #18
Dorf dude...
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Wood worm treatment

Thanks for the info. Where do I buy the glycol here in europe? At a reasonalbe price that is. I know the apoteke has it but at a crazy price. I'm just now turning the corner and going to get really bust on my beams. I will use a mix of? borax, glycol and?? Thanks, Dorf dude...
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:39 PM   #19
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Wood worm treatment

To be honest I get it from Mistral in Ireland ( www.mistral.ie) , (shipped to the house in England - then over in the car) try ebay, and search "boric acid" (uk ebay that is), can't remember if they ship accross the ditch. Buy them seperately, not combined as the combined is the premix, but much more expensive.

There is a mention of using diatomaceuos earth with the borax - chemically this is not much use, and potentialy deleterious, as the boric acid will react with the DE in solution, you can however use one then the other, but in that case the borax element must be second, and use glycol only. However, nothing will ever get near the wood.

Mistral do Technical Grade chemicals, which is as near to pure as possible (99.5%), so it will be dry and possibly dusty, be very careful. They have very little water of chrystalisaton, in their products, so is "stronger". Over the counter stuff has agents to make it "flow" for packaging (washing powders), and other bits and bobs, to bulk it out - basically you could say its "cut" with a. n. other substance - 99% can mean that the Borax is 99% pure, but there can be 10% other stuff in the box, but it may be a mix and "trace" does not always have to be labeled.


If you want to be realy naughty, they sell copper sulphate, which will kill fungal growth too, but use that then rinse off, then treat with Borates. (check out cures for fish fungus) if you want to know what else it is used for, there would have been no Salem witches if they knew about CS then !

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