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Old 08-23-2012, 12:59 PM   #46
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feel free to let it go in nature somewhere
Just make sure that "nature" is miles away from your house.

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Old 08-23-2012, 01:43 PM   #47
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Haha well at least your mouse issue is gone!
So it seems for the time being?
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:47 PM   #48
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Just make sure that "nature" is miles away from your house.

no worries, my sisters house is probably 5 miles from mine and over a river
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:21 PM   #49
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A trap is a better option. I am apprehensive of using poison around the house. The mice should decompose in about a week. Just donít get the habit of doing it. Seal it and throw it in a garbage next time (God forbid for a next time!).
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:53 AM   #50
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So it seems for the time being?
Exactly. If you haven't gone around yet and patched holes in the foundation and where the house attaches to the foundation, and any other potential areas where they can get in, then they will be back!
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:55 AM   #51
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I have just got some steel wool, & wonder if fine or coarse makes a difference when if come to this?
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:05 PM   #52
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I have just got some steel wool, & wonder if fine or coarse makes a difference when if come to this?
I usually go with coarse. You want it to be aggravating to their nose and mouth when they try to pull it out (and they will try, lol)
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:13 PM   #53
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I just saw one run by me as i was at my computer!

Yet we also have a 4 month old puppy, what are options to deal with them being we have a puppy that gets into everything?
Kennel the puppy and poison the mice. Snap traps with peanut butter and the blue bait cubes. Yeah, I hate using poison and put them in pretty out of the way places. I keep track of what went where.

Meanwhile scour the outside of the house and fix the openings they're using to gain access.

The ones that kept invading my shed for two years in a row were so determined to 'vote themselves off the island' they'd chew their way into a cabinet and into the sealed new box of poison cubes. Third year now and apparently they've driven their stupidity out of the local gene pool. Most of my traps were empty this year. It wasn't until a neighbor tore up his yard in June for a remodel that I got my first mouse trapped. Four more turned up shortly thereafter. None since.

Now I'm wondering when that will drill down to the squirrels too dumb to avoid going into my shed and electrocuting themselves in the battery charged trap that's up on a shelf behind various jugs they have to knock over... I try to make it hard, but they keep being too stupid to resist the siren song of peanut butter baited death. I have hopes of someday actually getting a ripe peach off my tree instead of feeding those damned vermin...
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:33 AM   #54
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I have hopes of someday actually getting a ripe peach off my tree instead of feeding those damned vermin...
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:00 AM   #55
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If the puppy is big enough, this will work
Wow, what a cat!
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Old 09-12-2012, 04:39 PM   #56
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use Decon blocks. Dogs usualy dont mess with them and they work like a charm. They kill them instantly. If you are worried about the pup, stick them under the fridge, under your desk, places the pup cant get to.
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:09 PM   #57
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Found a bat the other day...in the mouse snap trap.
Sad...
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:02 PM   #58
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Close the doors, and stop feeding first. I realize this is a bit repititious. Sorry.
Mice do not need water, like rats do.
Mice can take a 1/4in gap at a run. They can climb just about anything and can be found in crawl spaces to attics and in between.
Plumbing and electrical stuff creates pathways for them.
They are like robots and run the same path over and over.
The mother mouse will collect and hoard granular baits.
Single feed block baits work the best. They are single feed and you can monitor activity.
Place your rodent control things close to the wall and near their droppings.
Dampen their droppings before you sweep them up.
Snap traps and glue boards are a great extra tool for helping eliminate indoor mouse problems once the doors are closed.
Don't forget beneath the kitchen cabinets behind the kickplate. That is a good place for block baits.
There is a poison that has no secondary poisoning risk (Quintox). This would be a good consideration if you have owls.
Otherwise, the risk to pets is minimal if they do not eat the bait.
Good luck
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:52 PM   #59
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I've not thought about the attic, thanks for mentioning that, we've not seen a single mouse since I started the poison, yet I never put any up top & will tomorrow for sure!
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:16 AM   #60
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The droppings are key.Clean up (dampen them first) and check routinely for new droppings.
If you have a blacklight, their trails will glow.
Just look in the attic. Since the insulation will compact as they run the same trails, you will easily see if they are there.
Rodent poisons take about a week to 10 days for the mice to die.
If you have a large population inside after you close the mouse doors, place the control things at about 8 ft intervals. And move the furniture. It messes with their robotic mind and they will go new directions. Otherwise they may just avoid your device because it is new and in their path.
Pick up dry pet foods at night, and keep your bulk in a metal container.

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