Mice and Rats
Good rodent control begins with thorough inspections. Look for these ten signs: droppings (feces); tracks; gnawing damage; burrows; runways; grease marks (from their coats); urine stains (use a blacklight); live or dead rodents; and rodent odors. You'll want to place your traps or bait boxes on the rodent runways, or where there is a preponderence of droppings. Using a black light to check for rodent urine is important, because it cannot be seen otherwise, and you'd probably want to know if one urinated on your toothbrush. It is important to block off every entrance hole you can find, both in the barn and house. Rats can get through a hole the size of a quarter and a mouse can enter through a nickel-sized hole. Areas to inspect: plumbing penetrations, soffits, foundation vent screens, attic for any outside light shining through, your yard for rat burrows. Also, it is important to keep your barn floor as clean of feed as possible. If you're going to use baits, I would suggest contrac bait blocks in lockable bait stations--one placed on each side of your barn. For mice, tin cats (live catch) are effective, although you will have to take the mice 2 to 3 miles away to release. Glue boards are good also if you don't mind the squeeking, and then of course, you have the ever faithful snap traps. One more point. Most rodenticides today are anti-coagulants. Rodents die over a couple of days without pain. They slowly weaken and die, not associating their weakness with the bait. Hope this helps.
Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 08-19-2008 at 08:07 AM.
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