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Old 08-12-2007, 09:44 PM   #16
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Killing an ant mount most proficiently


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spread my seed (bermudagrass)
Bermuda does not do well here, too high maintainence

Be careful not to over water and develop fungus issues

I have what is called a contractors lawn or a central Florida special
Whatever blows in grows in

The best looking lawns are the hybrid crabgrass St Augustine and the easiest is Bahia
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Old 08-12-2007, 10:53 PM   #17
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Killing an ant mount most proficiently


Hi joeyboy

Just had another thought. As your healthy grass patches mature you could take plugs from them and transplant them to the less healthy areas. Grass, wants to spread anyway, so if you can take the healthy plugs and move them to the other areas they should keep on going. One thing you do have to keep in mind, though, "Grass will always grow where you don't want it to, and never where you want it"

Gerry
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:51 AM   #18
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Killing an ant mount most proficiently


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Originally Posted by Gerry Kiernan View Post
Welcome to grass growing Hell. We all go through it. Once the grass is well established go over it with a weed bar {weed killer in a waxxy bar form}to knock down some of the weeds. As to the bare patches, you just have to go over them again, and reseed.

Good Luck

Gerry
You say 'go over them again, and reseed', do you mean just reseed, or amendments + reseed?

My plan was the latter, and I've been debating whether to do it sooner or later. Here was my plan.

Load up the wheelbarrow with a 50/50 peat moss/compost mix (soil here is 100% sand, I'm in central FL beside the beach)

Mix thoroughly, and include a light amount of liquid fertilizer

Put a thin layer on any patches that aren't what I want

sow the seeds onto that


(alternatively, I was thinking of just mixing the seeds right into the amendments in the wheelbarrow, then spreading, dunno. So confused here!)

I've also bumped up the watering to 3X daily, basically I have one of those ghetto, hose powered sprinklers that I keep on during the afternoon and just keep moving from spot to spot in the yard.
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:45 AM   #19
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Killing an ant mount most proficiently


Hi joeyboy

I was just reading what ocoee wrote. Perhaps you need a different type of grass seed which is more suited to sandy soil.

It would seem, that if you are having to water so much, that this may be an on-going problem. I remember reading something about the on-going drought in Australia, and how the grasses that they have introduced over the last century, are not surviving. They are discussing going back to the original Australian grasses, which are far more drought tolerant.

Otherwise, mixing it all up, and spreading it should be just as easy as any other method, and just as effective.

Regards

Gerry
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Old 08-13-2007, 12:11 PM   #20
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Killing an ant mount most proficiently


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Originally Posted by ocoee View Post
Bermuda does not do well here, too high maintainence

Be careful not to over water and develop fungus issues

I have what is called a contractors lawn or a central Florida special
Whatever blows in grows in

The best looking lawns are the hybrid crabgrass St Augustine and the easiest is Bahia
We looked at bahia and it was just waaay expensive so we went with the bermuda. I've been told bermuda is great for here (not trying to discount your statement, it's just that it seems whoever you ask, has a different answer. That's been the biggest issue with the lawn is that no matter where I go for advice - locals, big box employees, garden centers, this forum, other non-repair/landscape related forums, I get different answers).

Careful not to overwater and develop fungus issues - how would I know? I do know that I've got some funny white mushrooms growing in this little patch! Overwater, fungus, underwater, slow/no growth/death of grass - will this be something I'll need to learn by touching the soil and just 'knowing' whether it's enough?

You mentioned hybrid/multiple kinds - I was wondering about this the other day - would it hurt to have multiple kinds of grass? I thought that if your lawn is good, the grass basically pushes the weeds out, so by that logic, wouldn't one grass push the other out? Maybe when I reseed I should do bahia on the patches that didn't develop yet?
(and what do you think of my idea with the mixing amendments with the seed, and then spreading? Should I put down the amendments and seed over, or just mix it up with the amendments, since they're going on as a real thin topdressing anyways?)
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:01 PM   #21
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Killing an ant mount most proficiently


Water no more than three times a week (a rain day counts as one time) for about 45 minutes per zone in the evening or early morning the system should shut down before the sun gets hot like around 8 or 10 in the morning at the latest 6 0r 7 would be better

If you reach down to the root zone and grab a fistful of soil and squeeze it should clump
If it drains water it is too wet if it doesn't hold together it is too dry

You can also buy moisture meters pretty cheap

The biggest problem we ever encountered was improper watering

Be careful with the peat, you don't want to establish a thatch layer at the root zone that will not allow the water to stay there

I'm a bug fan of St Augustine for making large spaces. It grows out on runners and fills out nicely
If you are not in a hurry you can plug the lawn and it will come in nicer and smoother than sodding

My experience does not go toward amending soils so i can not comment

Call your county agricultural extension agent they are more than happy to help you out and have no agenda as far as selling anything
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:51 AM   #22
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Killing an ant mount most proficiently


Find some straw and mulch it pretty good after you seed it. It almost feels like you are smothering it,,but it wont,. Keeps the top moist and the sun off the bare ground. When the top soil gets dry between the two waterings a day,,thats when you lose most of the seed. Best thing is to have a permanent hose/soaker hose,,,or sprinkler set up to cover the whole area very well. Not let the water puddle cause seed floats. Put a automatic off timer on your faucet and water it 10 times a day if you can,,,not hard IF all you do is walk past, set time to do 5 minutes(and then it shuts off) and walk away,,,much too much work any other way!! The top exposed soil can NEVER, EVER get even close to dry. You can rig up a cheapie sprinkler box to do it many times,short shots too,,,with an auto valve,,,but the timer you flip to 5 or 10 minutes and it shuts itself off,,,works really well,,,if you have two,three or more areas to water Y the hose and put shutoffs inline so you can regulate where it goes and keep rotating,,,most of a full time job to get one going for first two wekks.. IF too large of area,,,do it in stages!!

If you have to go out and turn it on and back out to shut it off,,,you forget a few minutes and you have a mess,,,by hand sprinkling and it takes too long!!

First thing I would for sure do before installing new grass is put a watering system in FIRST!! Makes all the difference in the world as to what your lawn looks like!! You can put one in yourself if you are industrious,dont mind a bit of work and can 'hoe' a straight line with a garden hoe cut down to 1-1/2" wide and a reenforced handle. dig it down 6-8 inches all the way along and put in pop up heads. even if you have to work a section at a time to afford it. Nothing nicer to see a lawm sprinkled a bit twice a day,,,keeps them fresh!! Make sure to put proper back flow devices so you dont suck lawn stuff into potable water supply,,,most all systems have standards for those!!

But the covering of straw as mulch is key to gettin it started!! After you getter going good and there is hair like stuff all over,,probably 3 weeks or so,,,lightly,,,real lightly rake it off.
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