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NickWa 01-11-2012 07:41 PM

Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations - Linen Color
If we want the whitest white without being gray, is the Linen color what we are looking for? Most of the DIY and blogs where people use the RCT product to turn their cabinets white, use the Linen color but I want to make sure in real life (not computer screen) the Linen color will actually produce a nice white.

We are trying to match it the best we can with some stock thermo white cabinets we bought to use for the island.


joecaption 01-11-2012 07:46 PM

Not going to happen. Linin is an off white, like antique white. It will look like white with a shot of brown added to a gal. of paint.
Far better off going with a white Enamel paint and using a foam roller.

NickWa 01-12-2012 05:47 AM

Dang, I thought this kit would be a lot easier and less materials to buy.

Assuming I went with an enamel paint, would it be similar process except with a primer added in?

1. Wash
2. Deglosser
3. Fill holes/sand
4. Prime
5. Paint

Is there a top coat that would be needed or just the paint?

joecaption 01-12-2012 08:15 AM

Depends, what's on the cabinets your trying to refinish now.
On cabinets I would not bother with a deglosser if what you have now is sealed or alreaded painted with a gloss paint. Degrease the cabinets, Sand instead with 80 grit sandpaper, vacuum, wipe down with mineral spirits.
Paint will be hard to get to stay stuck on cabinets because they take some abuse. The primer is going to need some tooth (scuffed up so the paint will have something to hang onto.)
Prime with a bonding primer, then paint.
Often times if the doors you have now have lots of details it's 10 times faster to just buy new doors and just paint the boxes. The factory finish would hold up far longer.
You do plan on removing all the hardware, doors, and even the drawer fronts if there just screwed on and lay them flat while painting, right?
This job to do right will take far longer then your thinking in most cases so be patient.
Your going to need a Mouse type sander, a random orbital sander, a quality 2-1/2" sash brush, a roller frame for Hot dog type foam roller and a pack of foam rollers.
Paint the low areas first with the sash brush, then do the rolling.
I buy my sandpaper from I believe it's Mirka brand paper. It does not load up as bad and cuts better then the stuff at Lowes or HD.
It's also cost less per sheet.

NickWa 01-12-2012 08:25 AM

The cabinets we are looking to paint are oak natural (where visible and doors) with melamine interior (where not visible) and shelves. We will just be painting the wood.

The cabinets have never been refinished or painted so they are fairly rough (25 years old) but still some sheen - very little though. There is not much detail on them and I don't think it requires getting new doors.

I've already removed the cabinet doors, all the hardware, and tonight will start washing down the cabinets and doors. I need to fill holes on all doors (going with pull knob instead of current handles) and will do that once washed and lightly sanding the area. The drawer faces (only 4) are nailed to the boxes so they will not be coming off but I will be standing them on the back of the box so the face is flat for painting.

I do have a the sanders you mentioned and required sandpapers. I will need to pick up a couple brushes and foam rollers. That will be the fun part.

I am thinking of using Ben Moore Advance Satin paint and will need to find a good bonding primer as you mentioned. I have seen a few kitchen redos and also heard from cabinet re-finishing gentleman that this paint is excellent for refinishing wood cabinets.

In any case, do you suggest sanding at all between priming or between any of the coats of paint?

joecaption 01-12-2012 08:51 AM

It would do no harm to do a light sanding, then wipe them down again real good, but if you look at the finish, and you rub your hand over it and it's smooth like a babys bum then skip the sanding.

NickWa 01-12-2012 08:54 AM

OK fair enough.

Thank you for your help. 01-12-2012 10:49 AM

Lots of whites
I agree that the linen color will look yellowish next to pure white.
I suggest that you not use the monitor to judge colors, just go to the paint store and get a few color cards, bring them home and hold them up next to your white you are matching. I like to tape them up in a few places and then look at them at different times of day to see them in all lights.

Just a thought,
I painted my kitchen cabinets with latex semigloss almost 10 years ago and all has been great. I can wipe them off with a sponge, no problem. I have seen what looks to be a better way on HGTV. They took them out to the garage and created a spray area and sprayed the doors using a sprayer. I'm sure that really comes out great b/c you are eliminating the brush strokes.

Best to you.

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