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-   -   why 2 inch brad nails? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/why-2-inch-brad-nails-176812/)

DiyCR fan 04-10-2013 11:53 PM

why 2 inch brad nails?
 
I am installing wood base moulding & corner blocks. Here is the corner blocks link http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/2035794...6#.UWZChldMfkC

On that page if you scroll down & click installation guide, it says to use 2 inch finishing nails (brad nails). My base moulding is 1/2 inch thick, my corner blocks is 1/2 inch thick & my drywall is also 1/2 inch thick. When i nail the corner block to the drywall, i figure i just need 1 inch brad nails, no? Why have an excess of 1 inch protruding out the other side? One of my walls has cinderblocks behind the drywall, so i don't think 2 inch brad nails is a good idea.

Seattle2k 04-11-2013 01:03 AM

Well, because drywall alone will not hold the nails securely. The longer nails are able to reach the bottom plate or studs.

oh'mike 04-11-2013 05:22 AM

You are on site and the boss----so you must use what you know will work for the site situation---

It's great to be the boss---and stop reading the instructions---Real Men don't read instructions!

Seattle2k 04-11-2013 06:11 PM

Sorry, I missed the cinderblock part. The drywall has furring strips behind it, right? Use shorter nails, but try to hit the furring strips. Or, use an adhesive at that location.

funfool 04-11-2013 06:50 PM

You need something long enough like a 2" brad to reach the framing behind the drywall.
If it is drywall over cinder block, is hard to say how they attached the drywall to the block.
I would use liquid nails for that wall to hold the trim.

DiyCR fan 04-11-2013 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seattle2k (Post 1157148)
Sorry, I missed the cinderblock part. The drywall has furring strips behind it, right? Use shorter nails, but try to hit the furring strips. Or, use an adhesive at that location.

No furring strips. The drywall is nailed into the cinderblocks with cement nails & large patches of compound. On this particular wall, i may try to get 3/4" brad nails. That should go deep enough into the drywall without hitting the cinderblocks.

DiyCR fan 04-11-2013 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funfool (Post 1157167)
You need something long enough like a 2" brad to reach the framing behind the drywall.
If it is drywall over cinder block, is hard to say how they attached the drywall to the block.
I would use liquid nails for that wall to hold the trim.

Yes, I've heard of Liquid Nails... i may also look into PL Premium. Anyone ever try PL Premium?
I'm sensitive to odors, so my first look will be with 3/4" brad nails. Thanx all

Seattle2k 04-12-2013 12:55 AM

PL Premium and Liquid Nails are both polyurethane adhesives.

3/4" nails will only leave 1/4" in the drywall.

DiyCR fan 04-12-2013 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seattle2k (Post 1157394)
PL Premium and Liquid Nails are both polyurethane adhesives.

3/4" nails will only leave 1/4" in the drywall.

wow, i can't believe i didn't think of that... hmm, i may use the nail set to bang the head of the brad nail in an 1/8" which should be enough into both drywall & moulding.

or i will go back to using 1" brad nails & bang it in slightly sideways... that will gimme more room

funfool 04-12-2013 05:48 PM

You can use many things as an adhesive. You could use pure silicone caulking.
latex painters caulking caulking, would probably have less smell.
Just put some generous dobs of caulk every foot or so. Press the baseboard firmly in place to squeeze the caulking smooth.

For any adhesive be it glue or caulking, you need to apply pressure while it drys for it to work.
Get creative and put some heavy concrete blocks against it to hold it, what I would do is use some 1 1/4" brads and shoot them at a angle through the drywall going both to the left and the right.
This alone will not hold the trim. But it will hold it long enough for the adhesive to dry overnight.

If you shoot a 1" brad straight into drywall, is because of the nature of drywall it is crumbly and only held together by the paper on both sides of the drywall.
A little brad going into it will create a larger hole then the brad and can not hold.
While a longer nail shot at a angle, will go through the drywall and deflect or bend taking the least path of resistance. The bend on the end of the nail and different nails going in different directions will hold it long enough.

Dorado 04-12-2013 07:22 PM

The trim for my closet was nailed to concrete using Steel Cut Masonry Nails. Also the shelf supports. It's stronger than you need for holding trim but it will penetrate concrete. You just have more to spackle because the nailhead is bigger.

DiyCR fan 04-13-2013 08:28 PM

ah now i see why the installation guide recommended 2" brad nails. The corner block is shaped like a C. The open part of the "C" goes against the wall-corner & afterwards there is space between the corner block & drywall. That space requires 2" brad nails to reach the drywall... but i will make 1" brad nails work :thumbsup:

DiyCR fan 04-14-2013 12:06 PM

Can i nail 18-gauge brad nails in with a hammer?
 
1 Attachment(s)
I just realized the Brad Nails i bought are made for a nail gun. They come in a strip of 1,000 nails. They are 18 gauge & flat-shaped. Can i nail them into moulding with a hammer or will they break/bend? (Originally a pro used those type of nails with a nail gun/compressor.)

I also have these Grip Rite Brad Nails... i know these can be hammered in

*update: nevermind, thank you. Didn't even attempt hammering 18 gauge brad's... gonna get Grip Rite 2d nails (i have 3d which is probably doable but not taking chances on splitting the moulding which is composite wood; not real wood)


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