What type of adhesive for engineer wood floor?
I cant believe I am working a honeydoo crap on superbowl sunday instead of working on my BBQ skills. hehhehehee
I live in Houston TX and planning to install engineered 1/2" x 3" wide x 48" long on concrete. The house is about 9 years old purchased from a national builder. The builder poured the concrete over a black vapor barier for the foundation. I dont know the moisture content on my concrete but I wanted to becareful and take the necessary precaution. I got the material from HD on clearance (china made crap, but usable for a lower value house like mine). I am looking at using either:
1. Bostic Best (could use first coat as moisture inhibitor)
2. Bostic BST and MVP
3. Dupont with moisture inhibitor (could use first coat as moisture inhibitor)
4.Bruce everbond for engineered wood.
By the way, I am not floating the floor. Some areas do exceed the manufacturer standard of variance 3/8" every 10', but not by much. My intention is to use more glue in the low areas. Besides, most of the planks are only 48" long.
What glue would you recommend? Should I use a concrete sealer and where can I buy it?
No glue will make a straight line (wood flooring) bend and stretch which it would have to in order to stay on a straight line and still float up and down in these dips. So before you get into which glue, fill the dips to make a flat surface. Some self leveling compound will do fine. Check your supplier to find the glue you need, use equalizer Urethane Adhesive or PR+ Polymeric Resin Adhesive. Air or heat systems should be running and 65-70 degrees should be maintained 3 days before and after installation. Never use sealers, in fact if a sealer is already on the concrete, you need to remove it. Humidity must be between 35-55% All moisture must be removed from concrete. Acclimate the wood flooring for a week or up to three weeks. Moisture of the wood must be less than 13% and within 4% of the concrete moisture level. Adjust with dehumidifier if necessary.
Thank you very much bob. I guess you are not a football fan to reply on superbowl Sunday? I know that I am cheap for not floating because my house is only worth 150K (in this recession, it might be worth less). If I have an 300K house, then I would buy the BR-111 and hire a professional do the job. I guess I could feathered the low areas....it is too much work and expense to float the whole floor 1/4" ($300 of self-leveling compound).
By the way, why not use a concrete sealer if the material is recommended or compatible to the glue you are using?
Let's go Cardinal!!!!!!!
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