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Old 05-31-2012, 10:44 PM   #1
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What are the possibilites I can mess up my stairs/flooring


I'm thinking about staining/sealing refinising stairs.
Quartersawn white oak treads, risers, etc.

First - stains. The 2 around here carry both Bona and Minwax in the color that is correct color I want (Special Walnut). Any pros/cons between the 2 brands.

I plan to sand at 100, waterpop, let it dry overnight, stain, dry 1-2 days, followed by 3 coats of mega traffic HD. No sanding in between the coats. On the final coat, straight 220 grit on it.

Does this sound like a sound plan ? Missing or Adding a step ?

On the final coat/sand - does one need to do intermediate sanding grits or go finer. 150, 180, etc up to 300 ?
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:36 AM   #2
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What are the possibilites I can mess up my stairs/flooring


Bring the final sanding to 150 grit---

Either stain will do fine---

Learn how to use a scraper---that is a flat sheet of springy tool steel--sanding alone will drive you nuts--a scraper helps you get into tight corners.

Light sanding with 220 should be done after the first coat--you will have a lot of dust and fuzz in that coat---
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:45 AM   #3
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What are the possibilites I can mess up my stairs/flooring


Okay. 220 after the 1st coat. Will it be too *smooth* to allow the 2nd coat to bite ?

Try to use a brush as little as possible to avoid brushmarks right ? Kinda hard with spindles and such, unless I use a sponge..
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:03 PM   #4
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What are the possibilites I can mess up my stairs/flooring


The brush marks will flow together--And if the poly coats are done within 24 hours--the stuff will bite the previous coat just fine---
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:21 PM   #5
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What are the possibilites I can mess up my stairs/flooring


Quote:
Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
I'm thinking about staining/sealing refinising stairs.
Quartersawn white oak treads, risers, etc. First - stains. The 2 around here carry both Bona and Minwax in the color that is correct color I want (Special Walnut). Any pros/cons between the 2 brands. I plan to sand at 100, waterpop, let it dry overnight, stain, dry 1-2 days, followed by 3 coats of mega traffic HD. No sanding in between the coats. On the final coat, straight 220 grit on it.Does this sound like a sound plan ? Missing or Adding a step ? On the final coat/sand - does one need to do intermediate sanding grits or go finer. 150, 180, etc up to 300 ?
Iím an old builder and I would never stain seal coat like you suggest.

I only use sandpaper for the original stripping, after that its steel wool. Then vacuum and tag rag before staining and sealing anything

Grit of sandpaper for stripping always depends on WHAT the wood is on the steps for hardness or hardness due to age of wood.

.I love Minwax stains

I always stain with a sock so you can rub the stain on and control the amounts and buffer its depth of staining to flair out the darkness differences. Obviously knots/softer parts in the wood will darken more then other parts.

Next Use steel wool to sand down raised grain from staining. Then vacuum and use a tack rag to get all particles out. I use Spar urethane or the old Gym seal (thatís used in school gym floors) Then use 00 steal wool on first seal coat and vacuum and tag rag. Apply last coat and or use third coat if necessary.

Caution. Whenever using a clear coat AWLYS pour sealer into a separate can so when you dip brush from can to surface and back to can you wont contaminate the original can with any particles of wool or sandpaper grit that may be left over. This way you still have virgin sealer particle free for a second coat.

Or go this route

http://www.duraseal.com/sections/pro...s/500-seal.htm

http://www.duraseal.com/sections/products.htm
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