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-   -   Vinyl plank/tile over concrete slab (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/vinyl-plank-tile-over-concrete-slab-79263/)

Doxy 08-20-2010 10:40 PM

Vinyl plank/tile over concrete slab
 
I'm hoping to install a vinyl plank or tile in my kitchen as part of a renovation I'm doing.

This is going to be a DIY project, and right now there's sheet vinyl that was glued down over a concrete slab. Before that, there was a vinyl product that was glued down (removed when the sheet vinyl went in).

I'm going to rip out the sheet vinyl, but I know there will be some residue left from the adhesive. Before I lay vinyl tile, what would I need to do there? Do I need a smooth surface before I lay tile or will some residue be OK?

Also, I know peel and stick vinyl is the most prominent material that I'll find at the home center, and I haven't settled at all yet on a product, but would it be better to glue it down on the concrete rather than rely on the adhesive backing? I really don't want to worry about seams lifting.

I'm months away from this project, but I'd like to get my head around what I need to do. The entire area is about 250 square feet, so it's not huge, but it's a high traffic area with access to the yard and garage.

Any advice would really be appreciate. :)

Donna

gapeahen 08-26-2010 02:44 AM

Hi Donna, I'm needing the same question answer also! I'll be installing vinyl plank (4"x36") with adhesive backing/peel and stick from Lowes. Which this product got many great reviews and it seems simple enough for this DIY gal to get it done! My place is a cinder block house built in the 50's!! I've removed 3 layers of old flooring, when the last layer was removed I found a black tar like adhesive that doesn't come up. Someone told me I need to seal the concrete with a good paint primer before installing vinyl planks. So I've done that with white latex primer and then I notice all the little bumps of old adhesive. So I hand scrape them out and prime spots again.

The little man in the apron at Lowes said I needed to add a bonding agent before laying vinyl planks. Which I've purchase and will apply unless someone suggest different. Hoping to have the floor complete by the end of September.....so that's the plan!! I'll post pics in my album of the progress soon!

Hoping someone that knows more will post soon!
Check in later,
Donna Vincent

Aaroncarpet 08-26-2010 07:33 PM

after rippping up the old vinyl, you need to scrape the floor with a 4 inch razor scraper and sweep 20 times and vacuum....if you have to use peel and stick which is cheap and crappy I recomend using a roll on latex base sealer for better adheision or spread your own dry setting thin tile adhesive...unless you are replacing the floor every 2 years due to leasers

you should consider using sheet goods like traditional vinyl , but cushioned and more ergonomically correct plus no seams, 12' goods

the tiles will shrink over time and every square will hold dirt

Doxy 08-26-2010 08:43 PM

Thanks for the information. I pretty well figured that scraping was in my future.

However, no. I won't use sheet vinyl. I'll be happy to use an adhesive prior to putting the tiles down, but I won't go with the sheet stuff.

gjjr2001 08-27-2010 12:53 AM

I have installed near 100sq ft of vinyl plank allure oak flooring over every kind of subfloor and concrete slab. Given that the plank is floating as it adheres to the other tiles and not the subfloor so it will smooth over the imperfections rather than adhere to them the way self stick or commerical vinyl tiles do.

All adhesive must be removed, the easiest route is to use a spade to remove the adhesive leftover.
Every little bit must come up as the better the prep the better the floor will look, go with Allure planking you will not be dissapointed.

Doxy 08-27-2010 08:35 AM

Allure?
 
Have you had any problems with Allure scratching? That's one thing I'd seen in the Consumer Reports article I'd read. That was enough to scare me away because this is a high traffic area, and I've got dogs.

Aaroncarpet 08-27-2010 10:17 AM

dogs and laminate
 
laminate is not great with dogs...better to get engineered flooring like bruce if you need wood and have dogs.

Aaroncarpet 08-27-2010 10:21 AM

you cant sweep enough
 
remember to hand feel every spot you put a tile so that you don't get pimples/puckers...they sell the scrapers and blades at HD or lo's. keep your blade sharp when you scrape...use blades don't over use them...

Doxy 08-27-2010 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaroncarpet (Post 491979)
laminate is not great with dogs...better to get engineered flooring like bruce if you need wood and have dogs.

I'm not going with laminate. I'm going with vinyl. I've had dogs on laminate, and they never scratched it, but 7 dogs going "tick tick tick" over laminate in enough to drive you insane. Doesn't matter how short you keep there nails, either.

Aaroncarpet 08-27-2010 12:06 PM

like you say about the clicking
 
The vinyl tiles will be fine....when you start, make sure it is square and take your time butting the seams, you can use vinyl seam sealer if you are concerned about heavy trraffic and black seams over time....i know you weren't doing laminate just was commenting

epson 08-27-2010 12:34 PM

Ok, first you have to remove all the old glue off the floor by using a scraper making the floor smooth. Once this is done you have to clean the floor by Adding 1 cup tri-sodium phosphate powder to a gallon of hot water. Use a scrub brush to thoroughly scrub the cement floor. Rinse well. Let it dry for at least 48 hours.

Now use a chalk snap line to divide the floor into four sections with two intersecting lines running from mid-wall to mid-wall. Use your carpenter's square to ensure the two lines are 90 degrees from each other. When this is done you can now spread tile glue over the intersection of the lines at the middle of the floor, using a notched trowel and covering enough area to encompass at least four of your tiles. (Make sure there is plenty ventilation in the room when applying the glue) And be sure you are still able to see the lines through the glue. Set four tiles in place at the intersection of the two lines, pressing the tiles into the glue and tightly against each other. Spread more glue and press in more tiles, working your way out toward the edges of the floor. Use a vinyl tile cutter for the straight cuts along the walls and when all is finished let the floor set for 24 to 48 hours before walking on the floor.

Doxy 08-27-2010 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epson (Post 492036)
Ok, first you have to remove all the old glue off the floor by using a scraper making the floor smooth. Once this is done you have to clean the floor by Adding 1 cup tri-sodium phosphate powder to a gallon of hot water. Use a scrub brush to thoroughly scrub the cement floor. Rinse well. Let it dry for at least 48 hours.

Now use a chalk snap line to divide the floor into four sections with two intersecting lines running from mid-wall to mid-wall. Use your carpenter's square to ensure the two lines are 90 degrees from each other. When this is done you can now spread tile glue over the intersection of the lines at the middle of the floor, using a notched trowel and covering enough area to encompass at least four of your tiles. (Make sure there is plenty ventilation in the room when applying the glue) And be sure you are still able to see the lines through the glue. Set four tiles in place at the intersection of the two lines, pressing the tiles into the glue and tightly against each other. Spread more glue and press in more tiles, working your way out toward the edges of the floor. Use a vinyl tile cutter for the straight cuts along the walls and when all is finished let the floor set for 24 to 48 hours before walking on the floor.

Thanks!

Is it possible to lay plywood down and walk (sparingly) on that? This is the kitchen and is the only access to the garage and backyard.

gjjr2001 08-27-2010 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doxy (Post 491952)
Have you had any problems with Allure scratching? That's one thing I'd seen in the Consumer Reports article I'd read. That was enough to scare me away because this is a high traffic area, and I've got dogs.

Correction to my original post, I have installed over 1000 sq ft of Allure flooring and have yet to be dissapointed. The allure flooring like any other wood or laminate flooring can scratch, though after three years placed in high traffic areas I have no scratches except a very minor hailine scratch that can only be seen from an angled view under the right lighting conditions if you are looking for it. We have several cats though front declawed and no dogs.

With that being said I would be cautious of installing the Allure if I had a medium to large size dog and go for a porcelain tile.

epson 08-28-2010 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doxy (Post 492038)
Thanks!

Is it possible to lay plywood down and walk (sparingly) on that? This is the kitchen and is the only access to the garage and backyard.

You should leave the floor to dry the required 24-48 hours. If you lay plywood down on the newly laid floor and donít give it ample time to dry, you run the risk of the tiles shifting... Why donít you use the front door and walk around to open the garage door to gain access to your backyard for the time being?

Doxy 08-28-2010 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epson (Post 492268)
You should leave the floor to dry the required 24-48 hours. If you lay plywood down on the newly laid floor and donít give it ample time to dry, you run the risk of the tiles shifting... Why donít you use the front door and walk around to open the garage door to gain access to your backyard for the time being?

The problem will be the dogs gaining access to the backyard. There are also some disability issues involved. :(

I'm going to have to think about this some more. I thought using adhesive was the way to go, but I do need to at least get through the kitchen occasionally for the first 24 hours.


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